ready to try it
12-16-2003, 08:45 AM
#1
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location:
Posts: 1,157
ready to try it
hey all-- does anyone here know af a shop in upstate NY that specializes in traditional archery? i am ready to try something new, and need some hands on advice. i have no idea if i should do recurve or longbow, are any sights involved, releases, etc etc. any help would be appreciated!
-moose
-moose
12-16-2003, 11:56 AM
#2
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: ready to try it
Moose, I can't help you with any shops in NY. Never been east of Lexington, KY, myself.
I'd really recommend a recurve for someone new to traditional. They're a little easier to shoot well, at least for most people. There are a few oddballs that shoot longbows better (and I use the term 'oddballs' in a good way[&:]) but they're the exception to the rule. A recurve generally has more mass in the riser and is more centershot than most longbows which gives you better stability, less recoil and a wider range of arrow spines that will shoot well from the bow....
Except there are some straight limbed bows with recurve style risers on the market and, come to think of it, there are recurves with longbow style risers.
Better quit there because I'm even confusing myself!
Seriously though, there is something for everybody out there.
Most folks these days shoot with fingers and don't use sights. Back before the compound came along though, sights were pretty popular on recurves. You see a lot of old recurves from the 60's that have screw holes in them where sights had been mounted. There were also a few people back then that used non-mechanical release aids, like bowlocks and ledges, though there aren't many oldtimers left that remember them. Elevated rests were also widely used. Bottom line, sights, rests and releases ARE traditional, if your definition includes all things that are 'pre-compound.'
If you want to shoot sights and release, then be my guest. The only problem you'll have is with tournament rules. Such accessories would put you shooting in one of the compound classes. Elevated rests are legal, within certain parameters.
The real draw to traditional is simplicity and foregoing all those things to get back to basics. Give it a try without sights and use a finger release. You'll find it's a challenge to shoot well, but not nearly as difficult as most people think it is.
I hope you enjoy shooting a stickbow. Good luck!
I'd really recommend a recurve for someone new to traditional. They're a little easier to shoot well, at least for most people. There are a few oddballs that shoot longbows better (and I use the term 'oddballs' in a good way[&:]) but they're the exception to the rule. A recurve generally has more mass in the riser and is more centershot than most longbows which gives you better stability, less recoil and a wider range of arrow spines that will shoot well from the bow....
Except there are some straight limbed bows with recurve style risers on the market and, come to think of it, there are recurves with longbow style risers.
Better quit there because I'm even confusing myself!
Seriously though, there is something for everybody out there.
Most folks these days shoot with fingers and don't use sights. Back before the compound came along though, sights were pretty popular on recurves. You see a lot of old recurves from the 60's that have screw holes in them where sights had been mounted. There were also a few people back then that used non-mechanical release aids, like bowlocks and ledges, though there aren't many oldtimers left that remember them. Elevated rests were also widely used. Bottom line, sights, rests and releases ARE traditional, if your definition includes all things that are 'pre-compound.'
If you want to shoot sights and release, then be my guest. The only problem you'll have is with tournament rules. Such accessories would put you shooting in one of the compound classes. Elevated rests are legal, within certain parameters.
The real draw to traditional is simplicity and foregoing all those things to get back to basics. Give it a try without sights and use a finger release. You'll find it's a challenge to shoot well, but not nearly as difficult as most people think it is.
I hope you enjoy shooting a stickbow. Good luck!
12-17-2003, 03:43 AM
#4
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Illinois
Posts: 1,862
RE: ready to try it
moose1915:
Additional advice. Do not over-bow yourself. Pull different bow lengths and draw-weights until you find a setup that allows to obtain a comfortable anchor without having to bend the riser to get that last inch pulled back.
Many that are new to the stick commonly pick a bow that is too short for their draw-length and/or too much draw-weight. The bow ends up stacking horribly and the shooter ends up believing that he or she was not meant to shoot a recurve/longbow, or that recurves and longbows are to archaic to shoot accurately.
My nephew bought his first recurve last year. He told me was having a hard time learning to shoot the bow and to shoot it accurately. When I met with him, I found that the new bow was a 56"-50#@ 28". He pulls a 32-inch arrow, the same as I do. The damn bow was stacking before he could get near his anchor. I tried the bow and had the same problem. Additionally, not only had the shop sold him the wrong bow for him, they sold him 29" shafts.
I put him on my two 64" recurves; one is a 45# and the other is a 48#. Shooting my shafts, and introducing him to the basics, I had him shooting comfortably and accurately within a short period. He is now buying a 64" recurve @ 48#.
The same situation also occurred with a friend this year. He also has a 32" draw. His new recurve is/was a 62"-45#@28". It stacks on him. He shot my 64"@48# and loved the comfort that just 2 inches provided. His new bow came in a few days ago. However, it is a 68"@48# longbow.
I found out very quickly when I started shooting recurves, that a 64" bow is my minimum length for best comfort of anchor and hold. I may be able to drop to a 62" on the custom bow I am going to have made.
Additional advice. Do not over-bow yourself. Pull different bow lengths and draw-weights until you find a setup that allows to obtain a comfortable anchor without having to bend the riser to get that last inch pulled back.
Many that are new to the stick commonly pick a bow that is too short for their draw-length and/or too much draw-weight. The bow ends up stacking horribly and the shooter ends up believing that he or she was not meant to shoot a recurve/longbow, or that recurves and longbows are to archaic to shoot accurately.
My nephew bought his first recurve last year. He told me was having a hard time learning to shoot the bow and to shoot it accurately. When I met with him, I found that the new bow was a 56"-50#@ 28". He pulls a 32-inch arrow, the same as I do. The damn bow was stacking before he could get near his anchor. I tried the bow and had the same problem. Additionally, not only had the shop sold him the wrong bow for him, they sold him 29" shafts.
I put him on my two 64" recurves; one is a 45# and the other is a 48#. Shooting my shafts, and introducing him to the basics, I had him shooting comfortably and accurately within a short period. He is now buying a 64" recurve @ 48#.
The same situation also occurred with a friend this year. He also has a 32" draw. His new recurve is/was a 62"-45#@28". It stacks on him. He shot my 64"@48# and loved the comfort that just 2 inches provided. His new bow came in a few days ago. However, it is a 68"@48# longbow.
I found out very quickly when I started shooting recurves, that a 64" bow is my minimum length for best comfort of anchor and hold. I may be able to drop to a 62" on the custom bow I am going to have made.
12-17-2003, 06:45 AM
#5
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Poughkeepsie, NY
Posts: 55
RE: ready to try it
Moose: give me a E-mail and I would be able to give you a name of a shop in the Hudson Valley area. Hope that this might help you. I also have other shops that are located in NY. that might help you.
