Psylocide

Hey all,

I'm new to traditional setups, I used to shoot a bit of recurve when I was younger but never had my own bow.

Basically looking at getting the Samick Sage for hunting purposes, I've mainly got Turkey in mind for this bow, but need to determine what my investment is going to be.

1. What pound draw should I choose? I'm thinking 40 or 45, the min. we can use here is 40 and was thinking that a lighter draw would increase accuracy and make it easier to practice, but don't want to hamstring myself by going too weak.

2. What additional "accessories" will I need to get shooting? I'm assuming it's not exactly "ready to go" out of the box, what am I looking at dollar-wise to be ready to shoot? I've heard of a lot of people switching out string right away, do I need a rest, etc.? Basically How much am I looking at in add-ons right away?

3. What should I expect to pay for arrows? I would like to have some degree of consistency out of them, so I won't skimp here if I don't have to.

I know if I did some more research I could probably come up with these answers, but I'm kind of just looking for a rough starting point before I head over to the archery outfitter and either get taken or look like an idiot.

Cheers.

LBR

If you have a minimum for hunting, it's probably no more than 40#. In some states I think it's less, and some have no minimum. Lighter is easier to learn with, you can shoot longer with less fatigue, and 40# is plenty for most anything shy of elk and moose...and I have heard of those being taken with bows in the 40# range.

As far as the bow goes, the Sage does pretty much come "ready to shoot". It comes with a string and a stick-on rest. I'd replace the string myself, but it is serviceable. I prefer to shoot off the shelf--industrial velcro works great, and is cheap. You don't have to pay a bunch for fancy rest materials unless you just want to.

You will also need a glove or tab, arm guard, quiver, arrows (fletched with feathers), field points, broadheads, target (sand pile is a cheap and effective target that you can't wear out), etc.


I don't think there are many who can shoot the difference in a couple thousandths of an inch of straightness with a compound, much less with traditional bows. You can spend what you want, but I wouldn't go crazy with the extreme high-end arrows. I always liked XX78's in aluminum for durability. In carbon I'm liking some Trophy Ridge "Wrath" shafts I got, but I have to re-fletch them as they come with vanes. CX Predator II's work, but aren't as durable.

I also suggest the video "Masters of the Barebow, Volume III". It can take years off the learning curve.

Chad

Psylocide

Thanks LBR, gives me a starting point.

Psylocide

Well, I picked up the Samick Sage in 45# and I'm really impressed with the quality thus far. You can tell that they are mass-produced to be budget-friendly when you get right up close and examine it (finish could be better/rough edges here and there), but it's really a good-looking bow.

I'm using the string Samick provided, got the nock set and silencers on there and put a leather pad on the shelf. Cost me $6 all total to get it set up.

I have yet to shoot it, because I need to wait a bit to buy arrows (budget reasons) and a glove/guard and quiver. Once I get those I'll be good to go.

Now a question about practicing for the time being... would it be considered too risky to draw the bow without an arrow nocked to practice anchoring and holding for a moment? I'd be devastated if the string slipped out of my fingers and dry-fired it, but feel like it may not be an issue.

If someone tells me that I just need to wait to actually get to the range and practice there, then that's probably what I'll do.

Thanks.

LBR

I'd practice with a string bow--that way you can practice release also. Simple and cheap to make, used as a training aid by many coaches.

Psylocide

Thanks LBR... do you think it would be beneficial for me to go to the shop and try to find the correct arrow for me before I would just buy some online?

I think his prices over there are a little more spendy, but it would be nice to know I'm getting the correct length and that before dropping a bunch of money on arrows. The best I've seen online are the feather fletched Port Orford cedars at around $8.50 an arrow... but not sure what exact length is going to work best for me as I've never played around with a recurve.

LBR

Shew.....I'd go with some cheap aluminum or carbon, at least for now. At $8.50 an arrow, you won't want to practice for fear of loosing or breaking one. 3 Rivers or Lancaster should be able to help, and I think you can order individual arrows or a test kit from either one. Either one will help get you the right arrow.

big rockpile

I would go with aluminum,main thing is get the right weight for Weight and Draw Leighth.

Keep in mind shooting Instinctive is like throwing a Ball,consintrate on where you want the arrow to go and practice.

I grew up watching Howard Hill and Fred Bear whom I met,and Long Bows and Recurves was the way we hunted,no Tree Stands,no Fancy Camo.Shot many Squirrels and Rabbits.

If I was hunting Turkeys I found I like shooting them either facing straight towards me or away,break the Spine.

big rockpile

Psylocide

Took the bow out to the outfitter's shop on Saturday and picked up a half dozen Easton xx75 2114 Superlights, had the shafts cut to 28.5", feather fletched and 100grn field points for $25.

However, after doing some more research and being a little disappointed that I got helped by the part-time guy (shop owner was busy tuning), I think the 2114s are a little stiff for my 45# draw. But, being a beginner, I don't think it's going to make a huge difference.

Anyway, I shot for an hour and a half on Saturday and had awesome groupings at 10 yards, decent groups at 20 and still able to consistently hit the bull at 30. I'm going to dial it back to 20 and get those groups tighter before stepping out to 30 again.

Had a blast shooting though, thanks for the help you two.

Psylocide

Back at it with another question:

What are your thoughts on Dacron strings vs. Fast flight?

I was looking at the Samick Sage page over at 3Rivers and they had the following to say:

Is there any reason why this string would be that much better than the Dacron string, or do they just want people to spend more money?

Any input is appreciated.