BenPearson Hunter 709
 

Took it down from the pegs where it has been sitting for far,far too long gathering dust.
IIRC I paid $50 for it in 2000 or so when introducing a youngster to archery; I gave him a nice little Martin that Christmas- we had a lot of fun back then. Well, that was a long time ago now... Cleaned it up, waxed the string & strung it. Now all I need are some arrows.
One reason it's been hung up,honestly, is that I have little faith( born out by experiences) in the only truly local shop.:bash: My last attempt at purchasing arrows yielded 6 cedar shafts which may have been assembled by a drunk monkey; granted there was no charge but they were better suited for kindling.
So, this bow is 50#@ 28". My preference would be to shoot cedar, previously shot aluminum arrows, but I would appreciate suggestions, opinions, etc.

Cedar shoots well but they're pathetically weak so you'll go broke buying them,If you want to shoot wood try sitka spruce,douglas fir,or for more weight/strength hardwood like maple or whatever.Depending on what the draw weight is at your draw length will help find the best spine.

It is very difficult to get good POC anymore. Good, tight, straight grained POC is pretty tough--not as tough as aluminum or carbon, but keep them in the target and they last a long time.

Spruce is probably going the closest to POC as far as weight goes. Douglas Fir is generally a little heavier.

I've shot those, plus Pine (chundoo, lodgepole, etc.), laminated shafts, Maple, and Ash.

You can get good and bad in most any of them. I got some Maple shafts once that broke easier than anything I've ever shot, including POC.

The toughest shaft I ever shot was Ash, but they wouldn't stay straight for anything. They had been heat-straightened and sealed. Shoot, straighten, repeat. That was my experience with hardwood shafting in general.

Like Bernie said, you'll need more info. to choose the right spine. I had to go up a spine group or two with hardwood vs. POC, Spruce, Doug Fir, etc.

Chad