IMHO, 2016s for 30" bop especially if the bow sports a FF string, or about 60-65# spine in wood. Rule of thumb is weight at draw lenght + 10# for modern recurve (versus not center cut "longbow"), + 5# for every inch over 28" bop. This from Kelly Peterson's (Arrows by Kelly) old web site. Plus all the 18xx, 19xx stuff sucks to find nock and point components for, being inside of 5/16 od.

2117 is definately stiff at 83# spine. Common problem for vendors of modern gear who also carry traditional gear, using Eastons "new" charts. Although I'm very surprised 3r din have better sense than that.

You know I was talking to a field archery guy I work with. He only shoots olympic style recurves, it appears they get away with much stiffer arrows due the shelf being cut well past center and using a rest. He said he shoots a 0.5" spined arrows out of a 43# bow. I was rather surprised.

Hmm, now I'm a bit concerned. I guess we'll see. Fishtailing would be the sign of a spine that is too stiff correct? The arrow will be 30.5" and my draw is 29". i did also get a Fast Flight Plus Flemish String as well as recommended, would that make a difference? I also noticed "Nightwings" closing on his post was a 32" arrow for a 42# bow shooting 2212's. His bow is 6" longer, again, not sure if that matters.

BC Rules, one question for you, you say that 2117 is too stiff for shooting off the shelf but might not be for shooting a flipper rest, why is that? If the explanation is too long, don't worry about it, I was just curious at how that would affect if a spine is too stiff. I plan on trying both shelf and rest to see which i prefer, I did not realize which I chose might change what arrow i need. No wonder i stayed with the compound for so long!

Off the shelf, you have to clear the rest, and have have a weaker spine reaction.

Where you have alot more room to clear the riser with a shelf cut way past center with a flipper rest. Where you can adjust the flipper to bare shaft tune, we can't. We are at the mercy of the arrow spine using spine/point wieght to adjust. You can move the plugger in and out or stiffen it if need be.

Think of a english longbow. Thier arrows are over 1/2" more off center. They have to have an extremely weak arrow to bend around the riser. but if you had a hole in the middle where the arrow sat dead center of the limbs, you can have a much stiffer spine.

I just talked to my buddy who does olympic target style, and he says for his 40lb setup, he is using 1916's or even 2016's. And thats with a 75gr glue in tip.

GPMD,

I should apologize, by being a little too cavalier with my comments given the audiance. When you get yer arras and kit, commence on having fun. Shoot the dang thing and don't fuss too much with what all us internet experts have to say. I've got a 5 gallon bucket stuffed full of arrows, from 95# down to 45#. Been times passed where I'd shoot that whole darn bucket into a group the size of a basketball all from the same bow. Sure, there's fine tuning that comes in time. But don't bust out in a cold sweat about your arrows just yet.

Not meaning to add gas to the far, but generally weak spined arrows will wag right to left enroute. Stiff will "whack" the riser when leaving the bow. "Good" shooters will tell you weak generally hits right of the mark, left if stiffer. But I ain't such a good shooter and tend to point according to how the bow and arra actually shoots, rather than sticking to a rigid, pre-determined shooting/aiming style or system and adjusting my tackle to it. Hence being not such a good shooter I reckon.

This ole boy has earned himself a poor reputation for delivery of custom bows but has some real good info on tuning at his web site: http://bowmaker.net/index2.htm

IM HOOKED!!!! Got the bow equipment yesterday evening and couldn't wait to get home today. I had to shoot over 100 arrows over the course of a few hours, I kept running outside to "shoot a dozen more."
I'll try and keep the recap short and get straight to the question. I found I shoot best with the bow slightly tilted. Its close to straight up and down like a compound than 45 degrees but definitley tilted. I am shooting off of one of those rubber stick on rests. My nock is about 1/16" high above level. I find i am getting decent groups for my first time with the occasional great shot. I would be thrilled for my first day IF 90% of my shots weren't about 4-5" high. I don't think I'm good enough to compensate yet by aiming low because when i do, i think i have too much time to think and grouping goes out the window. I don't even know if I should try to do that or if its a setup issue. Also, maybe 50% or more of the time, my shots are to the right. Not always but i never seem to be to the left, ever? no idea why. Im more concerned with the elevation issue now. Is this a result of too stiff a spine? Would raising the nocking point help even though i tilt the bow? All newbie questions, hope they don't sound silly but if I could just lower those shots, i'd be quite proud of my first day. Regardless, I love it and had a blast today, my compound should be very very worried right now!

bump your nock up a bit. start around 1/2" above the shelf/rest and tweek up n down from there for best flight. Most all my bows wind up with the nock between 1/2-5/8" above horizontal with rest or shelf. (I shoot two fingers, both under, and three under depending on the bow) If you shoot split your nocking point will likely be a tad lower

Great post fellas and alot of great info. Thanks for sharing, it is very useful.