pearson mach one
 

just bought one off of ebay never shot a recurve but was always attacted to them.compounds are still fun but recurves have been calling me for years

i wont hunt until i get a good year of practicing behind me plus im stuck in korea right now so 2011 will be my earliest date to hunt with it .

what types of arrows and fletchings work good with these bows it is 50lbs draw and how do you aim or anchor these bows seen some guys shooting them but they go back so far and release no stopping to anchor.

anyone ever use this model of bow how did it perform hopefuuly its good to go got it but wont be able to see it until november

plus stringers and quiver information would be appriciated i know im going to use a cut on contact head

and best way to store it

First off, you'll need to get your form established a bit. Getting arrows that are in the ball-park will be fine for now, because as you change your needs in arrow spine will change. I'd get a finished arrow that weighs at least 400 grains, to be safe for your bow. Heavier is fine.

Any arrow will work--carbon, aluminum, or wood. Feather fletchings. 4" or 5" 3-fletch should be fine.

Get the DVD "Masters of the Barebow, Volume III" for shooting instruction. There's a few books and videos I'd avoid--if you want my opinion on those, send me a pm.

Lots of good bow stringers on the market. I like Selway. Have someone close the first few times you use in, just in case. You will understand what I mean when you do it--you may very well need an extra hand until you get the feel for it.

The Safari Tuff "Arrowmaster" is the best quiver I've ever used, but until you start hunting/using broadheads you can get by for cheap, or just use your back pocket.

Store it lying flat (like under the bed), or hanging from pegs. I let mine rest on two pegs, positioned at each end of the riser (handle). NEVER leave it propped on end for any amount of time, or leave it in a hot car or garage.

Good luck!

Chad

thanks LBR for the response