Red oak board bow
#11
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
Posts: 26,274
RE: Red oak board bow
ORIGINAL: bigcountry
2" is quite wide, but would ensure you a safe bow. Definately overbuilt. I know guys building red oak 1.5" at fades pyamid 60lb bows at 65". But these are not board bows but stave bows.
ORIGINAL: Rangeball
Burnie, thanks for all the input. That's what I was looking for, just not finding. I guess a quality board is rare for $.98... I'll keep my eyes out.
With a pyramid, do you think 2" is enough width, assuming I go 70"? How short could I go with 2" width and still get 40-50#s? I just pulled the 70" out of my a... I mean the air based on the 2" width.
ORIGINAL: burniegoeasily
Oh yea, if you are trying to get 50 lbs with a pyramide style, 70" would be fine. You should have no problem. You might get a few boards. The heavier the weight, the better you have to be at tillering.
Oh yea, if you are trying to get 50 lbs with a pyramide style, 70" would be fine. You should have no problem. You might get a few boards. The heavier the weight, the better you have to be at tillering.
With a pyramid, do you think 2" is enough width, assuming I go 70"? How short could I go with 2" width and still get 40-50#s? I just pulled the 70" out of my a... I mean the air based on the 2" width.
2" would give you plenty of wood to work with. 65" length with a 50lb @ 28" is very obtainable, just have to watch your tiller and not go any faster than the wood tells you. You might not want to start with a shorter bow. Id suggest using the full 70" and make a bow 69-68" ntn. I’d still suggest backing with something needless of grain.. A good start design thatwill give you a good starting pointwould be;
Start with a 1 1/2 - 1 3/4" width.
6-8" static grip (this way you will have plenty of limb)
2" fades
Go 12-16" off fadethen tapperto 1/2" tips.
Just a basic idea that will give you something to learn from.
#12
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 2,994
RE: Red oak board bow
Thanks, but I was thinking the classic pyramid, where you taper straight to the tips (maybe 10" from the tips leave the tips the same width) from the widest point of the limbs, that gives a more circular tiller than the eliptical tiller of the modified pyramid. This would also allow me to tiller from the sides and leave the thickness the same the length of the limbs, to a point.
Based on this specific design I was wondering if 2" was enough to start.
Based on this specific design I was wondering if 2" was enough to start.
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Red oak board bow
ORIGINAL: Rangeball
Thanks, but I was thinking the classic pyramid, where you taper straight to the tips (maybe 10" from the tips leave the tips the same width) from the widest point of the limbs, that gives a more circular tiller than the eliptical tiller of the modified pyramid. This would also allow me to tiller from the sides and leave the thickness the same the length of the limbs, to a point.
Based on this specific design I was wondering if 2" was enough to start.
Thanks, but I was thinking the classic pyramid, where you taper straight to the tips (maybe 10" from the tips leave the tips the same width) from the widest point of the limbs, that gives a more circular tiller than the eliptical tiller of the modified pyramid. This would also allow me to tiller from the sides and leave the thickness the same the length of the limbs, to a point.
Based on this specific design I was wondering if 2" was enough to start.
#14
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
Posts: 26,274
RE: Red oak board bow
ORIGINAL: Rangeball
Thanks, but I was thinking the classic pyramid, where you taper straight to the tips (maybe 10" from the tips leave the tips the same width) from the widest point of the limbs, that gives a more circular tiller than the eliptical tiller of the modified pyramid. This would also allow me to tiller from the sides and leave the thickness the same the length of the limbs, to a point.
Based on this specific design I was wondering if 2" was enough to start.
Thanks, but I was thinking the classic pyramid, where you taper straight to the tips (maybe 10" from the tips leave the tips the same width) from the widest point of the limbs, that gives a more circular tiller than the eliptical tiller of the modified pyramid. This would also allow me to tiller from the sides and leave the thickness the same the length of the limbs, to a point.
Based on this specific design I was wondering if 2" was enough to start.
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Red oak board bow
ORIGINAL: burniegoeasily
If that is the case, I would start with 2" or more. Oak is not all that dense and does not like thin designs much.
ORIGINAL: Rangeball
Thanks, but I was thinking the classic pyramid, where you taper straight to the tips (maybe 10" from the tips leave the tips the same width) from the widest point of the limbs, that gives a more circular tiller than the eliptical tiller of the modified pyramid. This would also allow me to tiller from the sides and leave the thickness the same the length of the limbs, to a point.
Based on this specific design I was wondering if 2" was enough to start.
Thanks, but I was thinking the classic pyramid, where you taper straight to the tips (maybe 10" from the tips leave the tips the same width) from the widest point of the limbs, that gives a more circular tiller than the eliptical tiller of the modified pyramid. This would also allow me to tiller from the sides and leave the thickness the same the length of the limbs, to a point.
Based on this specific design I was wondering if 2" was enough to start.
#17
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 2,994
RE: Red oak board bow
Actually I think it was volume III (library didn't have IV then, I need to check again), and a bunch of time spent at the paleo world forum
The tiller from the sides aspect of the Pyramid bow design intrigues me. I can imagine doing it with a joiner. I also really like the look of the pyramid bows, especially the narrow starting ones, not so much the really wide ones. I may even let it bend in the handle a bit, depending on how it feels.
All of this is in the conceptual stage right now, and I figure if I don't try it, I'll never know. I simply don't currently have the free time to build stave bows, maybe someday, and until I get the true pyramid out of my system, I won't be able to move onto belly elliptical tillering board bows.
If it works, I had even thought of backing it with thin glass, assuming I can find some thin enough that won't overpower the compression strength of the red oak, which if I remember correctly is pretty good, more so than it's tension strength.
The tiller from the sides aspect of the Pyramid bow design intrigues me. I can imagine doing it with a joiner. I also really like the look of the pyramid bows, especially the narrow starting ones, not so much the really wide ones. I may even let it bend in the handle a bit, depending on how it feels.
All of this is in the conceptual stage right now, and I figure if I don't try it, I'll never know. I simply don't currently have the free time to build stave bows, maybe someday, and until I get the true pyramid out of my system, I won't be able to move onto belly elliptical tillering board bows.
If it works, I had even thought of backing it with thin glass, assuming I can find some thin enough that won't overpower the compression strength of the red oak, which if I remember correctly is pretty good, more so than it's tension strength.
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Red oak board bow
Side tillering is supposally much more sensitive than belly tillering. I myself would start off with belly tillering. Much more room for error. Let us know how it works out. If you have a bandsaw, only thing extra you have to do compared to board is cut it out.
#19
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
Posts: 26,274
RE: Red oak board bow
ORIGINAL: bigcountry
When you say, "does not like", do you mean it will be sluggish, or might break easy? I thoght the safe route was wide and thin with any wood that is second string?
ORIGINAL: burniegoeasily
If that is the case, I would start with 2" or more. Oak is not all that dense and does not like thin designs much.
ORIGINAL: Rangeball
Thanks, but I was thinking the classic pyramid, where you taper straight to the tips (maybe 10" from the tips leave the tips the same width) from the widest point of the limbs, that gives a more circular tiller than the eliptical tiller of the modified pyramid. This would also allow me to tiller from the sides and leave the thickness the same the length of the limbs, to a point.
Based on this specific design I was wondering if 2" was enough to start.
Thanks, but I was thinking the classic pyramid, where you taper straight to the tips (maybe 10" from the tips leave the tips the same width) from the widest point of the limbs, that gives a more circular tiller than the eliptical tiller of the modified pyramid. This would also allow me to tiller from the sides and leave the thickness the same the length of the limbs, to a point.
Based on this specific design I was wondering if 2" was enough to start.
#20
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
Posts: 26,274
RE: Red oak board bow
ORIGINAL: Rangeball
Actually I think it was volume III (library didn't have IV then, I need to check again), and a bunch of time spent at the paleo world forum
The tiller from the sides aspect of the Pyramid bow design intrigues me. I can imagine doing it with a joiner. I also really like the look of the pyramid bows, especially the narrow starting ones, not so much the really wide ones. I may even let it bend in the handle a bit, depending on how it feels.
All of this is in the conceptual stage right now, and I figure if I don't try it, I'll never know. I simply don't currently have the free time to build stave bows, maybe someday, and until I get the true pyramid out of my system, I won't be able to move onto belly elliptical tillering board bows.
If it works, I had even thought of backing it with thin glass, assuming I can find some thin enough that won't overpower the compression strength of the red oak, which if I remember correctly is pretty good, more so than it's tension strength.
Actually I think it was volume III (library didn't have IV then, I need to check again), and a bunch of time spent at the paleo world forum
The tiller from the sides aspect of the Pyramid bow design intrigues me. I can imagine doing it with a joiner. I also really like the look of the pyramid bows, especially the narrow starting ones, not so much the really wide ones. I may even let it bend in the handle a bit, depending on how it feels.
All of this is in the conceptual stage right now, and I figure if I don't try it, I'll never know. I simply don't currently have the free time to build stave bows, maybe someday, and until I get the true pyramid out of my system, I won't be able to move onto belly elliptical tillering board bows.
If it works, I had even thought of backing it with thin glass, assuming I can find some thin enough that won't overpower the compression strength of the red oak, which if I remember correctly is pretty good, more so than it's tension strength.
As for using glass. dont worry about over powering the belly. You can get by with all kinds of stuff when you put it under glass. Also, glass the back before you ever start tillering. You dont need to buy prepregnated glass, just use two part, clear epoxy and glass cloth. It will be perfectly clear after it cures.
But you are right, if that is what you want to do, go for it. You never learn until you try.