recurve bow question about arrow position
 

when placing an arrow on the string and then centering the string to the limbs and looking down the arrow shaft how far left should the arrow point be to the left of the string, thanks for any responses. the bow is not cut past center.

RE: recurve bow question about arrow position
 

That would depend how far the riser is cut out...."Who's on first?"

RE: recurve bow question about arrow position
 

It all depends on the bow maker. Some like their windows cut to center, some don't. There is no 'correct' degree of centershot. The less centershot the bow is, the more critical that bow will be of arrow spine. Once you figure out what spine arrows the bow wants, it'll shoot right down the middle.

RE: recurve bow question about arrow position
 

You should see where it points on selfbows that have no shelf.;)But when matched with the correct arrow, it will still shoot just as straight. Although, finding that exact arrow for the selfbow will be more difficult then a matching the correct arrow on a recurve with a center cut pastcenter.

FWIW, there are requirements on center cut for compeitions.

RE: recurve bow question about arrow position
 

thanks for the replies guys, so can someone help me with arrow selection, i shoot a hornes combo hunter recurve, 55# at 28 inches and i pull 27 3/4, i do have some shafts, they are xx75 2018- xx75 2016 and i have some carbon express heritage shafts 150 size, thanks for any help again.

RE: recurve bow question about arrow position
 

I have a couple of set ups fairly close to yours. I shoot 57# @27" and just set up some 2018 hunting shafts at 29,5 inches in length with 190 grains up front. My finished arrow ia right at 600 grains.the spine of these shafts are real close to 70#

The 2016 shafts with a slightly thinnerwall, and a lower spine haswould have worked well too, and netted a little lighter set up. in the same legth arrow i cuold use a lighter tip. My recurve bow seems to perform better with a 9 grains per pound arrow. and my long bow shoots well at between 10-11 grains per pound.

I do not have a lot years experience with traditional archery, but have found the matching of the arrows to your bow makes a huge difference as far as good arrow flight goes. There are a lot of determining factors.

The basics are that the arrow needs to flex just the right amount to bend around the shelf of your bow, then snap back straight again. It's called the archers paradox. Thats why a self bow and a long bow with no center shot cut out, or a very small arrow shelf is more critical. It needs to flex more to get around the bow. If you get an arrow that has too much flex or commonly refered to as under spined, the arrow flight will be effected too.

You can really be overwhelmed by all the different tuning techniques that are used. a lot of guys swear by bare shaft tunning with field tips. but your shooting form needs to be very consistant to sucsessfully use this method. Others build their hunting arrow with broad heads and use fletching size and configuration to help them get good arrow flight.

(Please excuse my terrible spelling here, cant get spell check working)

The bottom line is that both your 2016's & 2016's would be an excelent choice shaft for a 55# bow. The amount of flex you get will depending on how heavy your tip or broadhead is, and how long your arrows are. The longer you go, the less tip weight you need to get your flex in the shaft.

example: You couldstart at a30 inch shaft with a 125 grain tip. If your arropw groups are drifting left of your aiming point. the shaft isn't flexing enough. You would need to add more tip weight. Just by jumping up to a 165 grain tip would make quite a difference in a 30 inch shaft. You may find that the arrows now are not flying as well, and the groups are going right now. This is what you are looking for when tuning an arrow. You have two choices now....you have determioned that 125 grains is to light of tip, and 165 grain is to heavy. You can try to find a 140 grain tip, or cut the length of the shaft down. If you start cutting your shafts down i would go a 1/4" at a time untill your arrows are hitting center on your target again. if you cut too much off, and the arrows start drifting left again, The onlything you can do is add tip weight to get your flex again.(This is with a right hand bow.)

The whole process can be very frustrating to get it just right....What i have found in my experimentation is that a begining traditional style shooter has a less consistant release and anchor point. it makes arrow tuning a nightmare if you haven't got good consistancy. I have found that a slightly stiffer arrow flys better than one that is under spined, and using a larger feather such as a 5 inch or a 5.5 insh bananna feather really helps out a lot. Its true those larger feathers slow the arrow down, but to the less experienced shooter, its a huge confidence builder. those largerfeathers willgive you much better arrow flight, and are more forgiving with a less than perect release.

I know i got long winded here guys....but i just wanted to share my experience so far in hopes of helping others like me that are fairly new to traditional style shooting. I'm having a lot of fun with this...

Here are some 2018's with 5.5 banannas i just built that fly beautifully. I am going to go hunt white tail next week for the first time with them.

Kirk

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u301/kirkll/Arrow%20building/Arrowforest001.jpg

RE: recurve bow question about arrow position
 

I think your right in there with the aluminum sizes. I don't know which would work better for you. Maybe experiment with bareshafts (no broadheds) and different sized tips.

I don't know much about carbons.