What to look for in a recurve?
 

This is my first year of archery and recurves look pretty fun to mess around with, so I was looking to pick up a used one online or something. Only problem is, I don't know what I'm looking for. Should I worry about the length of the bow? And what about draw length? Is that adjustable? I was wondering about arrows too, I don't think anyone uses carbon arrows. Aluminum work fine though right? What about fletchings?

Might seem like an overkill of questions, but I don't really know much about traditional archery. Or archery in general, I just think it's fun. :)

RE: What to look for in a recurve?
 

Here is what I look for:
A bow in the 60" or 62" length. At my draw length, (29"), they draw smoother and won't "stack". Unless you've got a shorter draw length, stay away from short bows. I look for long "hooks" at the end of the limbs, this will also help with draw smoothness, and I think those bows are a little faster. I look for a short riser and consequently, long limbs. I look for a bowwitha radiused shelf and a fairly deep grip. Name brands for starter bows: Martin, Bear, and I'm sure others. If you are just starting out, don't go too heavy. 45# is all you'll ever need to go after deer.

RE: What to look for in a recurve?
 

I've been looking at used ones, I want something for around $100 though. I found one but it's at 50# which seems excessive. I mean, I would like to hunt with it some day but it seems like a lot.

RE: What to look for in a recurve?
 

Don't over-bow yourself. If 50# is too heavy, keep a lookout for a lighter one. There should be a lot of 40-45# recurves out there. Even check out garage sales and flea markets. I bought my first recurve used. It was 45#. I shot 3 bucks with it before I decided to upgrade. I still have it, rigged for carp shooting.

RE: What to look for in a recurve?
 

You have gotten some great advice. I wish I had some of it when I bought my first six to ten recurve bows.....LOL To be honest, I would suggest that you decide how you want to shoot. You know, gap, point of am, I think a longer riser for that style of shooting is better. I am an honest 28 inch draw length shooter, I perfer bows in the 60 inch to 58 inch class for my recurves. I perfer instinctive shooting, or whatever everyone else wants to call it. So I look for bows that have radiused shelfs, and radiused sight windows. Yes, I look for those, too. The lower the shelf is to my hand the better I like it.

Longer sight windows will allow you to use an elevated rest much better, which will also help if you decide to shoot three fingers under. Now that I mentioned that, a bow tillered for your style of shooting would be a great idea. I was once a stauched pistol grip person, high wrist recurve shooter, I have since switched to more of a longbow style grip on my bows. I just think is points more naturally, and give me less problems when I must react quickly. Of course it could all be in my head, but that is important too.

It may sound silly, but feel is important. Like fit on a shotgun, the better it feels as you point it, the better you will feel about shooting it, and the better you will likely shoot it. I just purchased two black widow long bows, one a test drive bow PL III and a PL X. Other than one being top of the line, they are both within two pounds of draw weight, and bow length. I have so moved to that style of grip, that I have hung up by black widow SAV Ironwood, in exchange for my Saxon Selkirk Recurve that has the traditional grip. It seems that now when I shoot my SAV, it feels far too alien to me.

The last thing I look for, is weight in the hand. I like light bows, but not too light. The heaviest bow I have in physical weight is the Ironwood. Too light a bow can beat you up, to heavy a bow can wear you out, especially if you do a lot of walking, or spot and stalking. Leave that heavy bow for the ground blind, or tree stand.

The last, yet most important thing is to stay, at least for your first purchase, with a well know bowyer. Even if the bow is twenty or more years old. I have several bears, they get hunted with too, ben pearsons, wings, hoyts, and herters. They are all sound, true they didnt have the advantage of the materials that they have now. True they don't shoot as fast, true they don't take fastflight strings, but I don't shoot them on many of the bows that can take them. They are well made, and beautiful.

Borrow a bow or two, shoot it, and make your move. If the truth be known, we have all changed bows over the years, and will likely continue to do so. You can find bows you shoot better than others, but a good shot will be able to get it done with any well made bow....

RE: What to look for in a recurve?
 

When I could shoot(neck/shoulder trouble)I used 50/55 ceder with my hunter and stick 50#28".But with my PSE Kudu Take Down(55 @ 28")I went with 400 beman carbons with feather fleachingand 100grn Thunderheads.Man they fly fast you need to adjust alot after you shoot the ceders...