Alright, guys, gimme a few definitions/pointers.
 

I have been a rifle hunter all my life, but the longbow has always held a strong appeal. I even own one, but I need a few pointers to get started.

I am not at all ashamed to profess my absolute, most abject ignorance in the matter, and since I see a few names that I trust on this board (from the rifle BBS), I would greatly cherish your advice.

1) Obviously, I need to learn how to shoot before I even remotely contemplate hunting with my longbow. What equipment (besides the bow, the correct-length arrows and an optional quiver) do I need?

2) Speaking of gloves, which should I use that are ideal for the longbow?

3) Are there different ways to grip the bow-string ~ other than the traditional, 3-fingertip grip of the more traditional competitive archery?

4) What are the most popular aiming techniques with the longbow?

5) What exactly is gap shooting?

6) Can I use my Nikon 800 Rangefinder for bow-shooting or are there more specialized tools for this art?

7) What all are the intricacies about draw, pull-weight, stack, etc? How do I read them from the handwritten data on my bow (which may as well be written in Chinese)?

8) Any other advice, besides the golden practice, practice, practice?

Thank y'all for your help and time.

Tom

Greetings from Blue Ridge Country

Edited by - .333 Nitro Express on 12/30/2002 15:58:21

RE: Alright, guys, gimme a few definitions/pointers.
 

The basic equipment besides arrows and a quiver are a shooting glove or finger tab, arm guard, stringer, spare string and bow square. I always recommend getting a string serving tool and learning how to use it. Servings are the wrappings on the string, on the end loops for endless strings (as opposed to flemish strings that have twisted/braided loops) and the center serving where you grab the string to shoot. They always seem to break when you're at the geographically furthest point from an archery shop, so you need to know how to repair and replace servings.

My favorite shooting gloves are the berlin and damascus gloves. The berlin gloves are made from thick deerhide and protect your piddies pretty well. The damascus glove is made from thin leather (goathide?) and I get a smoother release with it. But it doesn't protect your fingers from the string nearly as well. I also like the old red and black black widow finger tab as well as the Neet tab with the thick felt spacer. Lots of different personal preferences in this area though and it will take some experimenting around to find what you like.

There are two primary ways of gripping the string and lots of variants of the two. The 1 over - 2 under split finger or mediterranean draw that you describe. The other is the 3-under draw where all three fingers are under the nock.

Most longbow shooters shoot instinctive, meaning they concentrate on the exact spot they want to hit, draw, point and release. My style is to use instinctive on the closer shots, 20 yards and under, then use a type of gap shooting on longer shots.

Gap shooting is figuring out just where, in relation to the target, you can point the tip of your arrow as you anchor so that the arrow will hit center when you shoot. On close shots, the gap is well below the target, and the gap gets closer to the target as the distance increases. At some distance (varies according to the individual and his bow/arrow setup) the tip of the arrow is exactly in the target. That is called your 'point on' range. Beyond the point on range, the gap is above the target.

I've never used a rangefinder for bowhunting. Always figured if it was far enough away that I had to use a rangefinder, it was too far for me to shoot. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> I leave it to someone else to answer that.

Markings on the bow usually go something like: 66&quot; AMO 50#@28&quot;

That means the bow is 66&quot; long according to AMO specifications (Archery Manufacturing and Merchants Organization) and the draw weight is 50 pounds at 28&quot;.

Other advice besides practice, practice, practice is enjoy, relax and have fun. Also, try to find some traditional shooters living nearby that you can get together with and do some heavy brain picking.

Glad you've decided to explore traditional archery. Just be sure to wear your hip waders around stickbow shooters. <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

RE: Alright, guys, gimme a few definitions/pointers.
 

Not much I can add to Arthur's great advice, but I will try <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

Get some books--my favorite is Byron Ferguson's &quot;Become the Arrow&quot;-- try to find some clubs in your area that have traditional archers in them, and ask lots of questions. Remember there is no one perfect bow for everyone, and there is no one perfect shooting style for everyone. The basics are pretty much the same for everyone, but you will develop your own style over time.

Good luck!

Chad

Long Bows Rule!

RE: Alright, guys, gimme a few definitions/pointers.
 

I just started shooting a longbow within the past 5 months. All I used to get started was a bow, some arrows, a finger tab, and an arm guard (very important unless you enjoy bruised formarms). Just post the info about your bow (the chinese writing) and some indication on your draw length. Then we can give some advice on the proper arrow spine and length. If you don't know how to measure your draw length put up a post and we'll try to walk you thru it, really easy. Good luck and the advice Arthur P and LBR gave is right on.

RE: Alright, guys, gimme a few definitions/pointers.
 

Wow, guys, I expected some good advice, and I got some GREAT advice instead! <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

Well, the &quot;Chinese writing&quot; on my bow suggests that its length is 68 inches and that it draws 45lbs at 28 inches. It also has another number right underneath, &quot;1807&quot;.

I was looking at it last night, and it feels like a very well-made bow. It is a darkish color, with what looks like a 1/16&quot; clear rosin laminate. The grip is leather, with good stitching at the front. I wish I knew what brand it is ~ unfortunately, the shop in Fort Worth where I bought it almost 10 years ago is now a Joanne Fabrics...

I also have 10 arrows that the Archery pro had cut for me when I bought the bow ~ a quiver and an arm guard.

One of the questions I had: is there a website dedicated to traditional archery equipment that you guys would recommend?

Thank you all again very much!

Tom

Greetings from Blue Ridge Country

RE: Alright, guys, gimme a few definitions/pointers.
 

Tom, if you bought that bow at Trophy Archery, I can practically guarantee you its a Martin. That's the only brand of longbows I remember them carrying. To find out for sure, go to www.martinarchery.com and look thru their selection of traditional bows. They changed the design some a few years back, making them reflex/deflex instead of straight limb, but they still use the same woods.

If you still live in the D/FW area, we've got a club just east of Denton and we're having a traditional shoot on Feb 2. It's a benefit shoot for Traditional Bowhunters of Texas. It would be a good opportunity for you to meet up with some of the area's stickbow shooters. Shoot me an e-mail and I can give you the details.

RE: Alright, guys, gimme a few definitions/pointers.
 

Yes, Arthur, that's wher I bought it, and that's what it is! It looks like their &quot;Mountaneer&quot; model, which is also the right size (68&quot;).

I wish I still lived in Fort Worth (proud Horned Frog!) ~ I would definitely take you up on your invitation. I am now in the yuppieland of Northern Va, where it's a bit tougher to find good places to shoot. Fortunately, slightly further West around Winchester it gets a little less overcivilized, and there are plenty places to set up a target.

What do you think of the quality of my bow, if it's indeed a Martin? Do you think I'd be better off investing in another one?

Tom



Greetings from Blue Ridge Country

RE: Alright, guys, gimme a few definitions/pointers.
 

Tom, too bad you're not around here any more, but I know how things go.

I've had a couple of those ML-14 Mountaineers and they're stout bows. I used to take the handle wrap off and rasp the handle down to make the grip a better fit for my hand. They were famous for their handshock (haven't tried one of the newer r/d models yet) but they're fair shooters and practically indestructable. Mine took lots of game over the years.

Don't toss it in the trash, by any means, but there are better bows out there. There are custom makers that will make you just the bow you want for not a lot more than what a new Mountaineer costs.

RE: Alright, guys, gimme a few definitions/pointers.
 

Arthur,

Are the hip boots for the swamps where trad hunters like to hunt their deer? Or, is it to keep his clothes clean from some of the liberal spreading of fertilizer? <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>:)<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

For trad sites, I would recommend: http://www.bowjackson.com

There you will find an extensive list of bowyers as well as an extensive list of traditional gear suppliers.

Two sites I would recommend you look at is www.recurves.com (or Champion Bowstrings) and American Leathers. American Leathers has the best shooting glove I have ever seen. It gives a very crisp release and the fingers do not feel any pinch at all like the Damascus gloves. At recurves.com you will see some excellent bows at very reasonable prices.

Bill

Bill

Praise the Lord, He is worthy