New Archer: Tips & Questions
 

Want to start traditional archery. Shot a bit as a teen, now have my own land that I hunt, as well as all-over the upstate NY region. Hunt exclusively northern-zone, rifle and muzzleloader. Looking for a new challenge and some variety.

1.) Question: Is there a book that is well-regarded as a good starting reference point for those wanting to hunt with traditional gear?

2.) Question: Are there any "pro-shops" in the upstate NY region (Adirondacks, Buffalo, Syracuse, Rochester, etc.) that specializes in Traditional equipment? I would travel.

3.) I have been told that the newer compound bow technological trends are hyper-velocity arrows that are lighter and faster, but that the heavier shafted and broadheaded traditional equipment does just as nice a job knocking down the big ones, if not better.

4.) Are mass-produced traditional bows, such as offered @ Cabelas a good place to start?

5.) What do wooden-shafted arrows retail?

Thanks for answering any or all.

RE: New Archer: Tips & Questions
 

1) There are a ot of good books out there. G. Fred Asbel has two, Byron Ferguson has another.

2) Not a clue.

3) I don't know about "better", but I rarely ever keep an arrow in a deer. they blow right through.

4) To some degree, yes. I usually recomend folks pick up a used bow on eBay to start off with. If it turns out to not be what you really want, you can always resell it and almost always get your money back.

5) Completer wood arrows are about as much as aluminums or carbons. They are a lot more labor-intensive to make.

JRW

RE: New Archer: Tips & Questions
 

The Traditional Way by Fred Anderson along with Hunting The Hard Way by Howard Hill is two of the best books I've read for getting into this adicting way of hunting. Hitting em Like Howard Hill by John Shulz is the best instructional video I have seen.

RE: New Archer: Tips & Questions
 

1. My favorite (admittedly, I have not read nearly all of them) is Byron Ferguson's "Become the Arrow". Easy to ready, lots of good information (minus the part about wood arrows).

2. No idea--might check on the regional forums and get some advice.

3. Heavier arrows don't really "knock down", but they will pass through. One example that I read summed it up pretty good. Throw a ping-ping ball as hard as you can into a snowbank (I imagine you can do this test up your way). Then drop a baseball into it. Which one goes deeper?

4.The best over-the-counter bow, in my opinion, is a Martin. It has it's limitations though, especially if you have a longer than average draw length. Some of the Martins cost as much or more than some customs too. I agree with JRW on this one.

5. You can spend a little or a lot--depends on how fancy you want them. (hint-fancy doesn't shoot any better)

Good luck, and welcome to our addiction!

Chad

Long Bows Rule!

RE: New Archer: Tips & Questions
 

I sure can't add anything to the excellent advice that you've already been given, other than to reaffirm that Martin bows are good quality and an excellent place to begin your journey into traditional archery.

May you be forever blessed with favorable winds and clear trails.

RE: New Archer: Tips & Questions
 

I can't add a whole lot to what has already been posted but I've got a couple things...

1. Byron Ferguson's book "Become the Arrow" is excellent on *how* to shoot. Sam Fadala has a good book named "Traditional Archery" that goes through a lot of basics and is really well written.

3. Compound shooters are really into the latest-greatest-fastest gear that companies bring out every year. Trad shooters seem to pretty much stick to the basics and just keep having fun. The gear works, why mess with it?

4. I'm poor and shoot garage sale and flea market found bows. I like 'em and they shoot good for me. I've got a 70's era Pearson recurve that shoots so good for me I have to keep building arrows for it since I'm splitting arrows already on the target. I hope to get a custome bow someday. But it'll be because the bowyer I like doesn't make enough to stock stores, not because it's "custom."

5. On arrows, I've seen good wood arrows start at about $45-50 the dozen and go up from there. While the really fancy ones are nice to look at and everyone will drool on them at a shoot I don't think they shoot any better than a well made set of plain Janes. Besides, break one of those $150dz arrows on a rock behind the target and you'll be crying too hard to see the next shot <img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>

Guy

RE: New Archer: Tips & Questions
 

Sounds great, this is all good info. I'll check out Amazon for those books.

Here's a stupid question: how do you fasten a broadhead to a cedar arrow?

I'm suprised that the wood arrows (cedar mostly) are that price, for some reason, I thought they were a whole lot more.




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I can't add a whole lot to what has already been posted but I've got a couple things...

1. Byron Ferguson's book &quot;Become the Arrow&quot; is excellent on *how* to shoot. Sam Fadala has a good book named &quot;Traditional Archery&quot; that goes through a lot of basics and is really well written.

3. Compound shooters are really into the latest-greatest-fastest gear that companies bring out every year. Trad shooters seem to pretty much stick to the basics and just keep having fun. The gear works, why mess with it?

4. I'm poor and shoot garage sale and flea market found bows. I like 'em and they shoot good for me. I've got a 70's era Pearson recurve that shoots so good for me I have to keep building arrows for it since I'm splitting arrows already on the target. I hope to get a custome bow someday. But it'll be because the bowyer I like doesn't make enough to stock stores, not because it's &quot;custom.&quot;

5. On arrows, I've seen good wood arrows start at about $45-50 the dozen and go up from there. While the really fancy ones are nice to look at and everyone will drool on them at a shoot I don't think they shoot any better than a well made set of plain Janes. Besides, break one of those $150dz arrows on a rock behind the target and you'll be crying too hard to see the next shot <img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>

Guy


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RE: New Archer: Tips & Questions
 

Good advice all. If you don't mind traveling to New Hampshire, you can give Ray and Renee a visit at Lost Nation Archery. Good folks that'll give you excellent service.

Make em sharp and shoot em straight, or leave em home.

RE: New Archer: Tips & Questions
 

Probably the most used fastening method for tips on wood arrows is hot melt glue. It's not the low strength craft stuff but rather the high strength glue available from good wood working shops and archery shops.

That being said there is a growing wave of folks using epoxy for heads and I'm one of them. Between losing a few field points in tough bales and juggling hot tips, flame, pliers, etc. I decided to give 5 min epoxy a try. Head loss dropped dramatically and I no longer worry about burning myself. Now I use 12 min epoxy for a longer working time. While some will say the hot melt is better since the head can be removed with a heat source while the epoxy is permanent I will say that I've had no difficulty removing epoxied heads with a small alcohol burner. It does take a little more heat than the hot melt but they'll come right off.

I'll tell you what, it's *way* easier to align a broadhead that isn't searing hot when you're glueing it on!

Now the short answer you were probably looking for:
Taper the wood with a taper tool and glue the tip on. Irregardless of what glue you use be sure to completely degrease the tip.

Guy

RE: New Archer: Tips & Questions
 

That is very interesting. I presume there is a special tool for tapering the shaft?

Two more questions if anyone has time:

1.) What is the most common wood type used for shafts (i.e. cedar, spruce, etc.)

2.) Do you practice with both broadheads and practice tips? Or do the arrows shoot basically the same with each?

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Now the short answer you were probably looking for:
Taper the wood with a taper tool and glue the tip on. Irregardless of what glue you use be sure to completely degrease the tip.

Guy


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