Good used recurve for $100 or less
#1
I'm really getting the itch to get into traditional archery. I would like a nice beginner recurve to start to shoot in my backyard for fun and maybe so day take it hunting if I ever get proficient.
Are there any decent recurves out there for around $100? i don't want to invest a lot if i don't like it.
I shoot 65 lbs. with my compund and have a 29" DL. Would a bow around 45 lb at 28" be a good weight to start with?
Thanks and please add anything else you would like to add.
Are there any decent recurves out there for around $100? i don't want to invest a lot if i don't like it.
I shoot 65 lbs. with my compund and have a 29" DL. Would a bow around 45 lb at 28" be a good weight to start with?
Thanks and please add anything else you would like to add.
#4
I was in the same boat as you only about 1mo ago……wanting to get started and not having a flippin’ clue what where why when or how. Through Arthur’s help and some advice by Chad I’m well on my way to becoming full blown mess.[:-]
I have purchased 2 different bows via Ebay (Which Arthur or anyone else will tell you is a crap shoot but you CAN get a good bow for a great price)
I already havethe vintage 58” Pearson Hunter 709 50#/28” as well as a 60” Bear Kodiak Hunter 50#/28” on the way which I hope is in as good of shape as the Pearson.
I purchased BOTH bows for under $200 total. $89 for the Pearson and $103 for the Kodiak Hunter……
One other bow model I was watching quite a bit was any listing for WING Red Wing Hunters in my desired specs.
As far as stacking with a 58” bow? I normally draw to 30 ¼” on my compounds and draw the Pearson to 29.5” to the front of the riser and it stacks RIGHT THERE. Each day my muscles are adjusting to the different feel and it gets easier and easier to hit that anchor and hold for a few seconds while the mental computer sorts out what I’m looking at.
The first day I got it, I thought “No way am I going to be able to draw it to where I need it to go” Less than a week later it’s almost no problem.
I would say in my limited experience that if you aren't the strongest guy in the world that you might want to start in the 40ish# range for the first bow. You'll concentrate more on proper form than just trying to get the string back far enough.[:@]I'm a gorilla at 6'3" 260 and with my 30+" draw length a 50# recurve @ 28" is as far as I want to push it for a while and I can draw 100# compounds pretty easily.
I just got my arrows crested (I guess technically crowned) and fletched up just waiting on the Bear Kodiak and the new strings I ordered for both bows before I decide where to cut them down. (Beman “Classic” 400’s w/ 5” barred feathers with CE weight tubes)
Currently I’m just messing around with my A/C/C 3-60’s and the Pearson in my basement and even with grossly overspined arrows I can shoot the occasional baseball sized 6 arrow group at 11 yds (Yeah I know 11yds whoopee!
) And it’s so much fun my finger tips are about ready to fall off.[
]
A couple new Bear hair rests, beaver balls, stringer and tabs and I’m well on my way to terrorizing anything that will sit still long enough for me to fling an arrow at it.
I feel like an 8yr old kid with a new hatchet.
Thanks again Arthur and Chad for all of your help.

I have purchased 2 different bows via Ebay (Which Arthur or anyone else will tell you is a crap shoot but you CAN get a good bow for a great price)
I already havethe vintage 58” Pearson Hunter 709 50#/28” as well as a 60” Bear Kodiak Hunter 50#/28” on the way which I hope is in as good of shape as the Pearson.
I purchased BOTH bows for under $200 total. $89 for the Pearson and $103 for the Kodiak Hunter……
One other bow model I was watching quite a bit was any listing for WING Red Wing Hunters in my desired specs.
As far as stacking with a 58” bow? I normally draw to 30 ¼” on my compounds and draw the Pearson to 29.5” to the front of the riser and it stacks RIGHT THERE. Each day my muscles are adjusting to the different feel and it gets easier and easier to hit that anchor and hold for a few seconds while the mental computer sorts out what I’m looking at.
The first day I got it, I thought “No way am I going to be able to draw it to where I need it to go” Less than a week later it’s almost no problem.
I would say in my limited experience that if you aren't the strongest guy in the world that you might want to start in the 40ish# range for the first bow. You'll concentrate more on proper form than just trying to get the string back far enough.[:@]I'm a gorilla at 6'3" 260 and with my 30+" draw length a 50# recurve @ 28" is as far as I want to push it for a while and I can draw 100# compounds pretty easily.
I just got my arrows crested (I guess technically crowned) and fletched up just waiting on the Bear Kodiak and the new strings I ordered for both bows before I decide where to cut them down. (Beman “Classic” 400’s w/ 5” barred feathers with CE weight tubes)
Currently I’m just messing around with my A/C/C 3-60’s and the Pearson in my basement and even with grossly overspined arrows I can shoot the occasional baseball sized 6 arrow group at 11 yds (Yeah I know 11yds whoopee!
) And it’s so much fun my finger tips are about ready to fall off.[
]A couple new Bear hair rests, beaver balls, stringer and tabs and I’m well on my way to terrorizing anything that will sit still long enough for me to fling an arrow at it.
I feel like an 8yr old kid with a new hatchet.

Thanks again Arthur and Chad for all of your help.
#5
Boone & Crockett
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 15,295
Likes: 0
From: Mississippi USA
Great advice Matt--you are already sounding like a pro! Honestly, you gave good, solid advice--really glad to hear you are having fun! You have the right idea with starting out close, and going light to work on form. Accuracy isn't your first goal, consistency is--once you can hit the same spot every time, you can make the adjustments you need.
You are pulling around 60# with those bows--that's a lot of weight even for some seasoned shooters (gorilla or not). Sounds like you are doing a fine job!
Chad
You are pulling around 60# with those bows--that's a lot of weight even for some seasoned shooters (gorilla or not). Sounds like you are doing a fine job!
Chad
#6
Well I won the bow I was bidding on from ebay. Looks in excellent condition in the pictures and hopefully looks as good in person.
What spine arrows should I be shooting? its a 45 lb recurve and I'm going to be shooting 29" arrows.
Easton shaft selector recommended 2312,2215,2117 and 2020 with 125 gr. up front.
Do those sizes look about right?
What spine arrows should I be shooting? its a 45 lb recurve and I'm going to be shooting 29" arrows.
Easton shaft selector recommended 2312,2215,2117 and 2020 with 125 gr. up front.
Do those sizes look about right?
#7
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
From: Houston TX
I learned traditional bowhunting from my dad as a young boy. Started on rabbits, squirrels, grouse, ringnecks, etc.. When I was allowed to hunt deer with a bowwas when I could shoot a 55 lb recurve accurately at 40 yards. Is 45 lb. adequate for deer? I am definately going to get back into traditional archery. Have been using compound exclusively for 20 years now.
#8
Giant Nontypical
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
Likes: 0
MO... I think you need to be looking more at the 2016 or 2018. The standard Easton chart shows arrows WAY too stiff for recurves. Use the Legacy chart on Easton's site or, even better, Kelly's chart at www.arrowsbykelly.com
Susquatch, 45 pounds is plenty to do a deer, as long as you don't stretch the distance much beyond 25 yards, have good, sharp broadheads and put the arrow where it needs to be.
Susquatch, 45 pounds is plenty to do a deer, as long as you don't stretch the distance much beyond 25 yards, have good, sharp broadheads and put the arrow where it needs to be.
#9
Thanks Arthur...I put a bid on ebay on a dozen shafts on ebay and like you said I think they are prolly gonna be too stiff.
Thanks though, I'll sell them and get most of money back and buy the right ones.
Thanks though, I'll sell them and get most of money back and buy the right ones.




