I have tried repeatedly to paper tune my hunting set-ups new and old!
I have yet to make it work for me though. Thought some of you could help.
I have an easton booklet on bow set-up and tuning that I follow to a T!
Before shooting I tune my arrow with a line level both verticaly and horizontaly!
This seems to work well according to the bare shaft tuning test impacts are within a three
inch circle at fifteen yards. Fletched arrows alone have a high chance of robinhooding!
Then when I switch to the paper test to make sure my set-up is correct I get a two inch high rip indicating a low nocking point even though my arrow is level in aspect to my bow.
For those of you that can read problems with set-ups I have a fred bear realtree TRX set at 70# and a 28 inch draw, equipped with a two inch overdraw, two pronged drop away arrow rest, shooting 28" beman 70/90 hunter arrows with a string loop and release.
I realize porposing can be normal with a relaese, but this dramatic?
Secondly i also get a one inch left rip indicating that my rest is misalligned even though my arrow is in perfect allignment with the string.
no matter how much I try to correct this with directions from easton my tears don't improve! I NEED SOME HELPFUL HINTS! PLEASE!

p.s. would raising and lowering the arrow rest have the same impact as raising and lowering the nocking point on the string?

i'd put my money on you getting a high tear because you're getting some contact somewhere. is that bow a single or dually or hybrid? do the bare shafts and fletched hit in the same horizontal plane?

you could move your rest a little right, a little. i like coming out a little nock high and tail left, so do lots of other people, but some people like coming out perfect.

lots of people are going to suggest trying different weighted points to see if that clears it up because it suggests a spine issue. but befoe that i'd try moving my nocking pt up about 1/4" and see what happens. if the vertical tear gets smaller you know you were getting contact and that contact could be affecting everything you're experiencing.

edit: oh yeah, lowering your rest will accomplish about the same thing as raising your nocking pt. your arrow should be pretty much splitting the berger hole.

I like to start with the simple. Like gibblet said check for contact. I use a spray foot powder and spray it on the rest and shelf.

Make sure your arrows are balanced and the correct spine.

I personally have a hard time tuning with an over draw. They are funny.

Shoot through paper at different distances to see what the arrow is doing.

An arrow equipped with a broadhead will say a lot. With a high tear I would expect the arrow to dive well below a field point hit.

Hang around. You'll pick up some good info. I have.

My TRX is a single cam.
fletched and bare shafts hit in the same area (3" circle)
bare shaft nocks are at the top of the circle while points are at the bottom
Overall seem to group very well with fletch shafts almost to good (probability of spliting arrows very high the more I shoot).
My beman carbons have outserted nocks which I thought to be a clearance problem in previous setups which is why I went with a drop away arrow rest this time around.

the tendency of a single cam is to pull the nock down when firing. that's why if you're getting a high tear its probably from contact by your fletchings or the back of the arrow and the rest/shelf/something. i'm trying to think about a drop-away on an overdraw, that doesn't seem to have much arrow to get out of the way. i mean, you don't want your drop-away falling immediately, it needs to stabilize the arrow a bit. i don't have any experience with overdraws and drop-aways, but they can be really finnicky right at the shelf and thinking about one 2" behind the shelf and the tinkerin that could take is givin me a little headache like nodog said, footpowder, or just move the nocking pt up or the rest down (if its not going below the shelf) and see if the tear gets better. like i said, i've never tuned one with your setup, but i think you may be in for lots of experimenting and many sheets of paper.

gibblet you have been much help! As everyone else who replied to this question and others. I started tinkering with my setup immediately after checking this forum last!
I re-adjusted my rest to be inline with the berger hole and then adjusted my nocking point accordingly. Followed that up with a re-centering of my arrow to the string.
After two very tight shots I then re-adjusted my sights and shot twice more.
I must tell you that so far it looks very good. Both groups of two were very close to robinhooding! I will try the paper test shortly and will let you know how it goes!