finger setup
 

what is a good starting point for finger tuning a bow. I was told I should start off my arrow being 1/8" off center (going away from the riser) is this true and also whats a good starting point for my nocking point. And what is better a glove or a tab.

RE: finger setup
 

To compensate for the paradox, I just put the arrow on the rest (it must be kind of rest that will work with fingers), and view it from behind. Move the rest until the right side of the arrow's point looks like it is just visible from behind the left side of the bowstring. The arrow will be angled out to the left slightly. Easton's tuning guide shows how it will look.
Tuning Guide

For hunting, I like a glove because I can manipulate things better while I'm setting up my treestand, and eating snacks, digging in my fanny pack, and still be ready to shoot.

I wear my shooting glove under an insulated glove that has 3 fingers cut out. My hand usually stays pretty warm that way, and I can always stick in in a pocket if it does get cold. Keep it soft with a leather treatment cream of some kind. After it gets soaked in a rain, it can get pretty stiff, and that will screw up your shots.

Tabs will probably give you better precision shooting and consistency.
I've tried both, and don't notice a difference, but there must be one since serious target shooters use them.
I even know some hunters who use them, but I like a glove for myself.

RE: finger setup
 

Bulzeye is right on the money with arrow alignment. As you look down the arrow when nocked and on the rest, the tip should be just outside centerline of the arrow when looking past the string. A good starting point for the nock set is 1/8" above center. Bare shaft tuning will establish the correct points for both center shot and nock height. I prefer a tab for both target and hunting. I shoot a Neet hair tab for target and the Neet super leather for hunting. The super leather is less affected by changing weather.

RE: finger setup
 

Here I am out of the norm again.[&:] With a rest that has a solid right side (one that will not move, unlike a cushion plunger) set the bow up at centershot. I'm using a fall away that is set up dead on centershot. I check centershot by shooting between 10-30 yards every 5 yards. If you make a C shape with the arrows, your rest is too far out. If you make a backwards C, your rest is too far in. Since I have gone to a rest with a solid right side, the need to set the centershot out has been gone. Thats what I'm doing these days.

RE: finger setup
 

Some people are weird and their setups will swerve w-a-y off from the norm. For example, I used to know a left handed fingers shooter who - especially after a few beers - would shoot a right handed bow left handed. He'd turn his string hand OUT, away from his face, anchor with the big knuckle on the back of his hand and he could flat wear out a target that way. I think you could say he was a tad 'unconventional.';)

Normal people will need to set up as Bulzeye described. After that, centershot will be adjusted to fit your unique shooting release characteristics. I'd recommend sticking to rests actually designed to be shot with fingers. I've heard of people using whackey baskets with fingers, but I'd have to see it to believe it. As for dropaways, I don't see the point. A regular flipper rest does exactly the same job and is usually less expensive, less trouble to get set right and more dependable.