Fletching hitting cable
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Houston TX USA
Posts: 10
Fletching hitting cable
My old Bear round wheel doesn't have a cable guard on it. http://pages.sbcglobal.net/mdp/Hunti.../bowincase.jpg I have a two prong arrow rest and have my Uninocks adjusted so that the cock feather shoots through the rest. Unfortunately, this causes one of the feathers on my 2413s to brush against the cables. I can't find a nock postition that doesn't have the feather hitting something. The feathers are also cutting a narrow groove in the mole skin on the riser.
Is there a cable guard that I can retrofit to this bow to at least get rid of the contact with the cable? Maybe I need to think about a drop away rest?
The bow is shooting better than ever, but I'm slowly tearing up the fletching on these arrows. This may not matter compared to what the new Muzzy 100 practice blades are doing to my fletching and nocks - split a nock this evening, sliced a gouge in one shaft and cut two feathers off two arrows! The center of my broadhead target is really starting to show the effects of these practice blades also - damn center is coming apart! I think I found a combination that tuned this bow - but it's going to be expensive at this rate.
Is there a cable guard that I can retrofit to this bow to at least get rid of the contact with the cable? Maybe I need to think about a drop away rest?
The bow is shooting better than ever, but I'm slowly tearing up the fletching on these arrows. This may not matter compared to what the new Muzzy 100 practice blades are doing to my fletching and nocks - split a nock this evening, sliced a gouge in one shaft and cut two feathers off two arrows! The center of my broadhead target is really starting to show the effects of these practice blades also - damn center is coming apart! I think I found a combination that tuned this bow - but it's going to be expensive at this rate.
#2
RE: Fletching hitting cable
There are some aftermarket cable guards that may fit that bow. I believe saunders makes a couple. Check eders.com, you may find one there. I would first take it to a shop though, and have them see what they can do. Its very strange to have a bow with out a cable guard. You might also want to contact bear, they should have an answer for you also. You should have that taken care of though. Take it to a good shop first and have them look at it. Thats my advice.
#3
RE: Fletching hitting cable
Sounds like your rest is too close to the riser if you are getting contact on the riser try moving it a little away from the riser.
Only move in 1/32 at a time but mark it before you move it just in case it dont work and you can move it back again.
You will most likely have to adjust your sights after moving the rest.
Only move in 1/32 at a time but mark it before you move it just in case it dont work and you can move it back again.
You will most likely have to adjust your sights after moving the rest.
#4
RE: Fletching hitting cable
You should be able to get a side mount cable guard that mounts where your sights mount. I don't think that bow has a hole for a conventional guard...does it? Either way, yes get one, and get a good teflon slide for it also, and you should be in business. You may have to do some re-adjusting after you put it on.
Sounds like you are shooting fairly well despite all the contact. Good luck.
Sounds like you are shooting fairly well despite all the contact. Good luck.
#5
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: Fletching hitting cable
BigKid, I've been thinking about your wood riser bow and this problem. Most folks were still shooting fingers when it was made and most everyone was using a flipper/plunger type setup. Wood risers, in particular, were cut pretty thick thru the sight window to give them added strength, and were cut very close to centershot instead being cut past center like metal riser bows. So you simply do not have the right amount of clearance for shooting cock vane down.
I would suggest a new rest, particularly the GKF Star Hunter. Not at all expensive (pretty darned cheap actually, as rests go nowadays) and it's an excellent all round rest for fingers OR release. There are still a lot of other types of rests on the market that orient cock feather out, so you might shop around some. Anyway, put one of those on, orient your fletchings cock vane out and your contact problems will be gone.
Also... Some bows of that time period were designed without cable guards. I know for sure Browning had some like that, not sure about Bear. If rotating the nocks to cock vane out doesn't fix the cable contact, you are going to have to get one of those aftermarket bolt-on cable guards.
Edited by - Arthur P on 09/10/2002 13:28:21
I would suggest a new rest, particularly the GKF Star Hunter. Not at all expensive (pretty darned cheap actually, as rests go nowadays) and it's an excellent all round rest for fingers OR release. There are still a lot of other types of rests on the market that orient cock feather out, so you might shop around some. Anyway, put one of those on, orient your fletchings cock vane out and your contact problems will be gone.
Also... Some bows of that time period were designed without cable guards. I know for sure Browning had some like that, not sure about Bear. If rotating the nocks to cock vane out doesn't fix the cable contact, you are going to have to get one of those aftermarket bolt-on cable guards.
Edited by - Arthur P on 09/10/2002 13:28:21
#6
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Hamilton Square NJ USA
Posts: 557
RE: Fletching hitting cable
My girlfriend has a bow she was given as a kid she wanted to get back into shooting, same problem. I set her up with a prong rest and release not realizing it was causing the problem. Back to a flipper solved the problem, cock vane out. Just like Arthur said, not enough room for a cock vane down on those bow's centershot.
"In heaven, even the fish have antlers"
"In heaven, even the fish have antlers"
#7
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Florence AL USA
Posts: 53
RE: Fletching hitting cable
BigKid,
I agree with the others: you're trying to use a centershot rest with a riser that doesn't have enough relief for that. You need a rest style like has been descibed. All drop-aways (that I can think of) are operated off the cable guard or are of centershot/shoot-through style. You need a shoot-around style.
Also, I don't think you could add on a cable guard because your wheels weren't designed to have the cables pulled out of the way. That's why the wheels are so thick compared to today's cams.
By the way, that's a very nice looking bow. Because of those wide eccentrics that were used on those models, the string sits significantly LEFT of where it does on most bows today. The geometry of having to reach farther "past" the bowstring to get to the handle virtually eliminated "arm slap" by the string and also significantly improved the grip torque situation. These style bows were known for being easy to set up and pleasant to shoot, but they've fallen by the wayside through all the archery trend changes.
I agree with the others: you're trying to use a centershot rest with a riser that doesn't have enough relief for that. You need a rest style like has been descibed. All drop-aways (that I can think of) are operated off the cable guard or are of centershot/shoot-through style. You need a shoot-around style.
Also, I don't think you could add on a cable guard because your wheels weren't designed to have the cables pulled out of the way. That's why the wheels are so thick compared to today's cams.
By the way, that's a very nice looking bow. Because of those wide eccentrics that were used on those models, the string sits significantly LEFT of where it does on most bows today. The geometry of having to reach farther "past" the bowstring to get to the handle virtually eliminated "arm slap" by the string and also significantly improved the grip torque situation. These style bows were known for being easy to set up and pleasant to shoot, but they've fallen by the wayside through all the archery trend changes.
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Houston TX USA
Posts: 10
RE: Fletching hitting cable
Thanks guys, I really do appreciate the responses. I think you are spot on.
However, I'm very tempted to leave it as is for this season. Every since I got the draw weight back up with these 2413s it's a nail driver. My field points are hitting within a 1" circle at 30 yards unless I screw up the shot (which happens more than I'd like). The muzzy 150 practice blades have a larger spread and are about 2" left and about an inch lower. In other words, it is shooting sweet!
I really hate to change anything just now with only a couple of weeks left til bow season. I think I'll take my time looking for a different rest and just enjoy it like it is for this season. I really can't imagine it shooting any better.
If any one has any other rest recommendations, I'm all ears. What about a bodoodle type rest? Or a wisker bisket? If I'm going to swap it out, I'd like something that limits the arrow from falling off when stalking.
Capstone, I'm not sure if I follow your comment about reaching farther past the string - do you mean with my bow or with new bows? The bow does have the string way left on the limbs as you mention.
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/mdp/Hunting/Hunt.htm
Edited by - BigKid on 09/10/2002 22:51:15
However, I'm very tempted to leave it as is for this season. Every since I got the draw weight back up with these 2413s it's a nail driver. My field points are hitting within a 1" circle at 30 yards unless I screw up the shot (which happens more than I'd like). The muzzy 150 practice blades have a larger spread and are about 2" left and about an inch lower. In other words, it is shooting sweet!
I really hate to change anything just now with only a couple of weeks left til bow season. I think I'll take my time looking for a different rest and just enjoy it like it is for this season. I really can't imagine it shooting any better.
If any one has any other rest recommendations, I'm all ears. What about a bodoodle type rest? Or a wisker bisket? If I'm going to swap it out, I'd like something that limits the arrow from falling off when stalking.
Capstone, I'm not sure if I follow your comment about reaching farther past the string - do you mean with my bow or with new bows? The bow does have the string way left on the limbs as you mention.
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/mdp/Hunting/Hunt.htm
Edited by - BigKid on 09/10/2002 22:51:15