I was just flipping through my new issue of peterson's bowhunting and their was a bow review on the new hoyt vtec. The guy mentions something at the end and recommends creep tuning the cam 1/2 bow. What is this, how do you go about it, and is it specific to the cam 1/2? Is this necessary for optimal tuning and accuracy? Thanks, and aim for the boiler room. Bhunter32.

I have the answer for you!!!! Buy a Mathews.

And a stopwatch and see how fast you can make it to the trash can! Bowtech all the way!

After the string stretches adjustments can be made to the cam and 1/2 to settle you into the sweet spot. Meaning that you will have the rock solid wall right at your perfect draw length. this is done by twisting the timing cable so that the cam efficiency is maximized at your draw length.

zak123, I think that I will pass on your advice, but thanks for your expert opinion.

I have two mathews, a lx and a q2xl. I was just looking for some solid feed back. The area I live in is pretty much mathews and hoyt and I have never been able to get my hands on a bowtech. I would like to though. I am the type of person that if a bow feels good to me and shoots good, I don't care what name is on the limbs. Bhunter32.

BHunter, amen to that one. I have always been a di-hard Mathews man. This year I bought a Hoyt Protec. Big switch for me but glad I did

I dont think creep tuning applies to hoyts cam , dont believe everything you read in the mags . Every bow they do a report on is " the best one ever made" .

Creep tuning usually applies to two cams, not one cams. It's basically that you tune the bow and sight in, now SLIGHTLY creep forward off the valley and shoot again, with most 1-cams you do this and poof you're gone it's such a radical change.

Creep tuning normally is done on the softer 2 cams as well. You play with the cables and limb bolts until you get the same grouping from creeping as from solid anchor. In this way it gives the most forgiveness to a moving anchor point.

--Bob

I'm not going to say I fully understand the method or have done it, but from what I understand it is something that was done on bows with rather spongy walls and larger valleys. It assured that you had the same tune everywhere in the valley incase you missed your anchor point a little or crepped forward during the shot sequence.

I don't see where there would be a need for it with any of the newer bows, even a two cam. They have such solid walls and small valleys, if you were to creep forward it would ruin your form and shot any way. And if you use proper backtension during the shot with the correct draw length creeping shouldn't be a problem.

I may not have a full grasp on this tuning method though and could be all wet. I think people must still do it because I see it talked about on AT sometimes. I would be hesitant to tune for a form problem though. I would think it would be better to fix the problem in your shooting, not to try and tune it out of the equipment. In essences it just makes your bow more forgiving of errors in the long run.

Paul

Actually, creep tuning is usually done on 2-cam bows, and it is not simply to tune for a form flaw. It assures that the cams are in optimum synchronization when they fire, while the shooter is holding the bow. Timing on a crank board will give false results and the bow will not be in proper time for the shooter. The creep tume is more applicable to a standard 2-cam bow where there are 2 identical cable tracks -- one one each cam, even if the cams or wheels are slightly different shapes. On a hybrid cam, you cam do a modified creep tune proceedure to get the cmas to track the same, although there is only one power cable track. In this case, it is used to optimize the nock travel.