Tuning the Single Cam?
 

We can't tune for cam synchronization, so what all are we tuning for? I can see where there must be an optimum cam position, for the greatest efficiency, but is there anything else we tune for, with the single cam?

It seems that if we make sure the nock point is at the right height, the arrows should be flying properly, although maybe not at maximum speed. Most manufacturers have a few different draw length pegs, which would appear to put the cam slightly out of optimum position. They design this right into the cam, so I can't imagine the effect is anything too drastic. Can anyone add additional points on tuning the single cam?

RE: Tuning the Single Cam?
 

It's not just for speed/efficiency.

Any time you rotate that cam out of it's optimum position you affect where the nocking point on your string comes back to rest when fired.

You are affecting the nock travel. If you put the string on a different post, yest it should return to the same position evertime (assuming no string/cable creep) but you have already put the arrow flight in a less stable situation (either causing the nock point to be higher or lower than normal), hence the reason onecams are generally either a breeze, or a complete bitch to tune.

Good bushings and a perfectly round idler are crucial too, as this will again, affect where the nocking point returns to after every shot. You'd be surprised how this can affect the accuracy of a onecam bow; it totally ruins consistency from shot to shot.

JeffB

RE: Tuning the Single Cam?
 

Correctly spined arrows,
Draw length (it will change over time - string stretch),
Draw weight (it will change over time - string stretch),
Correct tiller setting,
Correct cam rotation,
Nock setting,
Center shot,
Correct spring tension (if it has one) on rest,
Make sure your axles are lubricated,
All of the above will help you be as consistant as you can be.
Did I miss any?

RE: Tuning the Single Cam?
 

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote<font size=1 face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Good bushings and a perfectly round idler are crucial too, as this will again, affect where the nocking point returns to after every shot.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' size=2 id=quote>

Very good point that hadn't occurred to me. The idler wheel would have to be fairly round to give consistant results. Are there idler wheels out there that are out-of-round far enough to cause significantly different results, shot to shot, or is it usually a bad bushing when there is a problem related to the idler?

IMN23D, all good points, but I was looking more for things that are just single cam related tuning issues. If before I shoot, I check that nock point is at the right height, what might be the problems associated with a single cam that would not occur with a twin cam?

RE: Tuning the Single Cam?
 

Shooter form has alot to do with shooting a single cam consistently.If you are a machine, no worrries. If you are not, (like most of us) you'll have occasional &quot;miscues&quot; with them. If you creep on single cams, you will get &quot;flyers&quot; because the system cannot be adjusted to &quot;balance-out&quot; any imperfections in form and have the same impact points whether you creep or overdraw. This is especially apparrent on uphill and downhill shots, and is where with alot of archers it happens most frequently. Sometimes archers also just &quot;relax&quot; a little at full draw, and creep slightly. All it takes is a 1/16 of an inch to throw you shot off considerably at various distances with them, depending upon which conventional one cam you are shooting, and what dynamic differential one end has from the other. It is an impossibility to &quot;balance&quot; them because there is no opposite cam to do it with, and no other alternate way to do it. Therefore, the bottom line is single cam bows cannot be tuned to a fine degree. Up to each individual to decide &quot;how much is enough&quot;, personally I want my equipment tuned so I don't get &quot;any surprises&quot; in any given situation. Just my own thoughts, Pinwheel 12

RE: Tuning the Single Cam?
 

Pinwheel,

I'm assuming that is the reason the very hard wall is so popular with the single cams. Keep the back tension on the wall and the flyers can be far and few between (if you do everything else right<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>).

RE: Tuning the Single Cam?
 

Hahaha, yes, I suppose you are correct! The magic words are--&quot;if you do everything right&quot;. <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> This aspect holds true with every shot no matter what you are shooting, no arguement there.

BUT, with lesser tension in the system due to the 80% or more let-off that &quot;masks&quot; the normally found harsh draw cycle of most single cams today, (all single cams stack energy very quickly at the beginning of the draw cycle due to the systems' overall design, regardless of whether they are &quot;rounder&quot; or not) this lesser tension also enables an archer to &quot;relax&quot; off of the wall and creep much more frequently than those with more tension throughout the system and is why you find alot of top shooters shooting the 65% letoff single cam bows as it helps them be more consistent. Believe me, having more tension(without being overbowed mind you) will make any archer a better archer. It keeps tension on the muscles, gives a much cleaner release,(less dwell) and forces the archer to keep a good amount of back tension going, which will build back muscles quickly and provide faster learning of &quot;muscle memory&quot;.

OK, nuff said.

I'm not going to get fully involved in another solo/twin debate like the one on the other thread as I feel it would be simply repetitive. You asked this question, I gave my input, whether anyone cares to believe me or not is redundant, I just try to help as that is my job.(as stated it is not just a hobby for me, it's my livlihood) It's up to each individual to take what he/she wants from these posts and threads and use it to his/her advantage. All I or any other tech can do is offer our opinions based on many years of hands on experience. Good shooting!<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> Pinwheel 12

RE: Tuning the Single Cam?
 

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote<font size=1 face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>is why you find alot of top shooters shooting the 65% letoff single cam bows as it helps them be more consistent. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face='Verdana, Arial, Helvetica' size=2 id=quote>

I have found myself preferring the lower let-offs, though I'm anything but a top shooter. Each new bow I've bought, I've ordered the 65% let-off module with it. Seems none of them come standard that way.

Thanks for your input. I know it probably doesn't sound like it sometimes, but I appreciate the view of the experienced technician. I don't always accept everything hook, line and sinker, <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> but I do enjoy the opinion and the cordial interaction.

RE: Tuning the Single Cam?
 

Straightarrow-

I definately enjoy the friendly interaction also, much better than some I've gotten into! <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle> Interesting and intellegent debates are always much more fun when conducted on this level, we all learn a little bit more each day. Been a pleasure!<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> Pinwheel 12