What do YOU look for in a bow?
03-08-2002, 05:51 AM
#21
Boone & Crockett
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Lehigh County PA USA
Posts: 12,157
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
Len,
I did say "more objective and less subjective", but not entirely one and none of the other, so we agree on that point.
Take your brace height comments for example....what is the brace height on the Darton Maverick? <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
I agree with you 100% and it shows in the kind responses of these folks.
I did say "more objective and less subjective", but not entirely one and none of the other, so we agree on that point.
Take your brace height comments for example....what is the brace height on the Darton Maverick? <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
I agree with you 100% and it shows in the kind responses of these folks.
03-08-2002, 11:52 AM
#23
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Eastern PA USA
Posts: 1,398
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
I look at all of the things that you originally mentioned, Frank
But there is one thing that i have tried to do since I made a mistake a few years back. I always keep the bow that is my present #1, and the new one has to be impressive enough to push #1 to #2 or on to another archer. I really like my present bow. It is by far the best I have owned to date.
36" axle to axle, 7" brace, #66, back up to 30" draw, very smooth draw, not sure how fast it is, but fast enough for hunting. I really like the solid back wall, and the adjustability of the cam over a 3" range (I think). The grip on this bow is the best I've seen so far for me anyway. The "new" bow on the way will have to be something special, or it will also be on its way.<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
The only thing I would look for is more speed if I can get it without a much harsher draw (the shoulder is comin' around).
Quieter shot, although I do think my present bow is fairly quiet.
Less recoil, but it really doesn't bother me that much anyway.
If I can find something that shoots as well, and has those qualities, I will buy it.<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
Avoid the inevitable until it is absolutely unavoidable!
But there is one thing that i have tried to do since I made a mistake a few years back. I always keep the bow that is my present #1, and the new one has to be impressive enough to push #1 to #2 or on to another archer. I really like my present bow. It is by far the best I have owned to date.
36" axle to axle, 7" brace, #66, back up to 30" draw, very smooth draw, not sure how fast it is, but fast enough for hunting. I really like the solid back wall, and the adjustability of the cam over a 3" range (I think). The grip on this bow is the best I've seen so far for me anyway. The "new" bow on the way will have to be something special, or it will also be on its way.<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
The only thing I would look for is more speed if I can get it without a much harsher draw (the shoulder is comin' around).
Quieter shot, although I do think my present bow is fairly quiet.
Less recoil, but it really doesn't bother me that much anyway.
If I can find something that shoots as well, and has those qualities, I will buy it.<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
Avoid the inevitable until it is absolutely unavoidable!
03-08-2002, 12:23 PM
#24
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Baltimore Maryland USA
Posts: 1,385
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
Joe: Very good point: "But there is one thing that i have tried to do since I made a mistake a few years back. I always keep the bow that is my present #1, and the new one has to be impressive enough to push #1 to #2 or on to another archer. I really like my present bow. It is by far the best I have owned to date."
If you can afford to do it, what you stated is the best approach. I've been shooting the same bow now for 4 years and can't find one that satisfies my needs better. I do, however, keep trying. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
If you can afford to do it, what you stated is the best approach. I've been shooting the same bow now for 4 years and can't find one that satisfies my needs better. I do, however, keep trying. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
03-08-2002, 01:01 PM
#25
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
Len, about arrows being just as important as the bow....
"Any old stick do for a bow - good arrow heap dam work -ugh!" Tommy the Seminole, "Witchery of Archery" 1879.
Good arrows were more important than the bow back then. Actually, they still are today. Bad arrows = bad shooting, no matter how good the bow is.
"Any old stick do for a bow - good arrow heap dam work -ugh!" Tommy the Seminole, "Witchery of Archery" 1879.
Good arrows were more important than the bow back then. Actually, they still are today. Bad arrows = bad shooting, no matter how good the bow is.
03-08-2002, 02:26 PM
#26
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Baltimore Maryland USA
Posts: 1,385
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
ArthurP: You're absolutely right. The whole archery "system" is the bow(including its accessories), arrow, and you. All have to work together correctly to produce the best results.
03-08-2002, 02:58 PM
#27
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: East Yapank NY USA
Posts: 3,457
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
Ossage,
I agree with you about the old Feathermax. I seriously looked into a new bow last year and could not find one that was that much better than my feathermax that it warranted its price.
The feathermax is really a great great hunting bow, and can still match up to most of the new bows today.
I agree with you about the old Feathermax. I seriously looked into a new bow last year and could not find one that was that much better than my feathermax that it warranted its price.
The feathermax is really a great great hunting bow, and can still match up to most of the new bows today.
03-08-2002, 05:38 PM
#29
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Eastern PA USA
Posts: 1,398
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
Absolutely right, Arthur!<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>
That might be the most important post on this subject.<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
Avoid the inevitable until it is absolutely unavoidable!
That might be the most important post on this subject.<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
Avoid the inevitable until it is absolutely unavoidable!
03-08-2002, 10:27 PM
#30
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Adrian MI USA
Posts: 228
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
Wow, there are so many variables that come into play here that it is hard to answere, but I'll try.
Before I see the bow:
ATA around 36 inches or under, I am a very small person and have no desire to compete. So a long ata is really not that important to me. On the other hand neither is a short axle to axle. But if I find one I like it would be ok. Because of my size and draw length a 32 inch bow to me would be like a 36 bow for a person six foot tall.
Brace height of at least 6 inches, again I feel that my short draw length gives me some forgiveness in this department, besides the shorter brace will help me get back some of the speed I am losing. To be honest I prefer 7 inches though.
Weight, under 4 lbs stripped down.
A slight reflexed riser, under 2 inches preferably.
Speed needs to be around 300 fps IBO and 230 or so AMO. I question bows that have high IBO ratings and AMO ratings under 230 fps. This usually means they aren't very effecient and won't perform well at 25 or 26 inch draws. I don't really want a fast bow, but I would like to shoot around 230 or 240 fps with a 6 grn/lb arrow at 60 lbs.
And obviously the bow needs to be capable of shorter draw lengths.
I also look at overall design, technology, and asthetics. Yes I want my bow to look cool as well as shoot well.
At least a 10 year waranty, not really a problem any more, most are lifetime.
Word of mouth. I pay close attention to what people on these boards say and what I read. I will admit, most authers are afraid to say what they really feel for fear of offending an advertiser. I also pay attention to what the shop owners and employees think. They will usually have a favorite of the new line ups.
When I actually look at or shoot a bow:
It has to fit me well and balance in my hand. Some bows just feel wrong when you hold them up.
Next they have to draw well. I shoot around 26 inches of draw(recently discovered it was 25.5), but I like to draw a bow back around 29 inches at 65 lbs to see how it feels. If I can pull a bow back 4 or 5 times like this with out shaking or killing myself I know it will be silky smooth at 25 inches and 60 lbs! Besides, most bows are set at around 29 inches when on display.
Next I look for vibration, noise and jump when the arrow is released. The bow does not have to be absolutely dead in my hand, but it better be close, especially if it is over $500! If a bow rattles, twangs, or tries to jerk out of my hand when I shoot it, I don't want it. I don't care what the specs and price are. I shot the ultra 2, and while it was fast, I was not impressed at all with the way it shot. Especially for a $600 bow.
I also look at fit and finnish and how the over all apearence of the bow is in person. Some bows look hidious when photographed, but don't look to bad when they are in your hand.
I also look for versatility and adjustablility. Hoyt wins hands down in this department. But there are other bows that have simular atributes.
Another thing that factors into it for me is availability. If one of the shops near me that I like does not carry it, it is not an option. To me, quality service is as important as the bow is. I am sure I could get a bow cheaper at Cabela's(maybe) which is fairly close to me, but the service would be nothing like one of my local pro shops that know me and my friends by name and will give me honest opinions when I ask.
I am sure I left a few things out, but that is it in a nut shell.
Paul
Before I see the bow:
ATA around 36 inches or under, I am a very small person and have no desire to compete. So a long ata is really not that important to me. On the other hand neither is a short axle to axle. But if I find one I like it would be ok. Because of my size and draw length a 32 inch bow to me would be like a 36 bow for a person six foot tall.
Brace height of at least 6 inches, again I feel that my short draw length gives me some forgiveness in this department, besides the shorter brace will help me get back some of the speed I am losing. To be honest I prefer 7 inches though.
Weight, under 4 lbs stripped down.
A slight reflexed riser, under 2 inches preferably.
Speed needs to be around 300 fps IBO and 230 or so AMO. I question bows that have high IBO ratings and AMO ratings under 230 fps. This usually means they aren't very effecient and won't perform well at 25 or 26 inch draws. I don't really want a fast bow, but I would like to shoot around 230 or 240 fps with a 6 grn/lb arrow at 60 lbs.
And obviously the bow needs to be capable of shorter draw lengths.
I also look at overall design, technology, and asthetics. Yes I want my bow to look cool as well as shoot well.
At least a 10 year waranty, not really a problem any more, most are lifetime.
Word of mouth. I pay close attention to what people on these boards say and what I read. I will admit, most authers are afraid to say what they really feel for fear of offending an advertiser. I also pay attention to what the shop owners and employees think. They will usually have a favorite of the new line ups.
When I actually look at or shoot a bow:
It has to fit me well and balance in my hand. Some bows just feel wrong when you hold them up.
Next they have to draw well. I shoot around 26 inches of draw(recently discovered it was 25.5), but I like to draw a bow back around 29 inches at 65 lbs to see how it feels. If I can pull a bow back 4 or 5 times like this with out shaking or killing myself I know it will be silky smooth at 25 inches and 60 lbs! Besides, most bows are set at around 29 inches when on display.
Next I look for vibration, noise and jump when the arrow is released. The bow does not have to be absolutely dead in my hand, but it better be close, especially if it is over $500! If a bow rattles, twangs, or tries to jerk out of my hand when I shoot it, I don't want it. I don't care what the specs and price are. I shot the ultra 2, and while it was fast, I was not impressed at all with the way it shot. Especially for a $600 bow.
I also look at fit and finnish and how the over all apearence of the bow is in person. Some bows look hidious when photographed, but don't look to bad when they are in your hand.
I also look for versatility and adjustablility. Hoyt wins hands down in this department. But there are other bows that have simular atributes.
Another thing that factors into it for me is availability. If one of the shops near me that I like does not carry it, it is not an option. To me, quality service is as important as the bow is. I am sure I could get a bow cheaper at Cabela's(maybe) which is fairly close to me, but the service would be nothing like one of my local pro shops that know me and my friends by name and will give me honest opinions when I ask.
I am sure I left a few things out, but that is it in a nut shell.
Paul
