mjqood0

I just got new arrows and was going to tackle tuning my bow with them myself.

I've read the Easton article, but have a few questions:

1. When it says to move the nock up / down, can't this be accomplished the same by moving the rest down / up? It seems far easier to adjust the elevation of the rest than removing the nock. I'm shooting a string loop, so I guess I could move the nock up / down if necessary by sliding it on the serving. Actually, it's quite tight, so I might have to spin it up or down by using the serving as sort of a threadded screw (I hope i'm making sense).

2. When starting out, how does one know where to put the nock on the string? I understand that the rest is positioned off of that, but there seems to be a lot of room for error with placing the nock point.

3. I've been having the problem of my string loop rotating on the string. (Actually, I think it's the string twisting.) Is it okay to just twist it back so the loop faces the right direction? Or am I actually moving the nock point up / down by "screwing" the up / down on the serving.

Sorry for all these questions, but I figure I must ask to learn!

Thanks in advance!

Carwi

Yes, you can move the rest up and down to adjust the arrow to be 90 degrees of the string. But, I personally like to have the arrow just cover the the berger hole and move my nocking point up and down. I use only a string loop and this can be very tricky to set. You may be able to use the method you mention to "screw" it up or down the string, however in short order mine just gets too tight. I set my rest to the arrow is centered over the berger hole in front of the rest then adjust my arrow up and down on the string until I get to approximately 90* of the string then I tie the top knot of my loop and move it up and down till I get it set perfectly perpendicular to the sting using a small level on my string and arrow to get the 90*. Then I'll tie in my second knot of my loop and cinch tight. Any adjustments after that I make with the rest which is very seldom or very very little, still covering the berger hole with my arrow. With my experience I find my setup to shoot tighter groups if you can keep the arrow centered over the berger hole. I hope I haven't confused you any. I have a bad habit of not expaining things clearly!![&:]

dwaasp

The reason one does not move the rest is that the bolt elevation is intended to let the arrow contact the string at about the center of the free bowstring, or the fastest moving part of the bow string as the bow is shot (as said before, “speed sells”).

If the serving is not braded the loop should screw up & down, like a nut on a bolt, but it needs to be tied very tight with tools to stop movement when the bow is shot. If it moves sometimes, just pull it back in place, the elevation will not change.

Sometimes one may need to tie the upper knot in one direction and the lower knot in the other direction for balance. The knots can be half hitch or clove.

When starting out, one will want to use the center-shot & nock elevation suggested by the maker or seller. And you should not stray far from what they suggest before you look for other glitches.

In other-words before you move something over 1/8”; ask-someone in the know, again about what you got going on here.

BobCo19-65

In another one's words, one should not move one's rest since one's arrow should passs though one's berger hole. One should move one's nock on one's string instead. If one moved one's rest it would probably not line up with one's berger hole. One's Easton Chart probably should have pointed that out to one.

mjqood0

Okay! Thanks a lot!

Let me re-state this to make sure I've got it right...

The arrow should pass directly over the berger hole. Therefore, adjust the elevation of the rest to accomplish this. Once that is done, you move the nock point to a 90 degree point from an arrow sitting in the now properly adjusted rest. With this complete, you can go about paper tuning according to Easton's instructions.

When I get home, I'll have to look at my rest to see if this holds true! Let's see if the Archery shop did their job!

Thanks again!

Stryker777

Cant say this is the right way, but I tuned my bow last night according to easton. I also noticed the lack of info about loop placing so I used some nock loop string, just looped around and held both ends, and then drew back with it only in contact. Where it settled I figured was center. Took a few draws to make sure. After that, I put my loop around the string. Then I set the rest and it was inline with the hole.

Carwi

Sounds like you got it! Also, set your rest according to your bow Mfg recommended centershot. Mine is 13/16" from the center of the arrow to the riser. Yours will vary. That will set your L-R orientation and be sure your arrow covers the berger hole and set your nock point as illustrated above. This will get you shooting pretty good from the start. Then I'd follow the Easton Guide from there with paper tuning, group tuning, etc. etc. Good luck and let us know if we can help. Here is an illustration using the NAP 2000RG I put on my bow many months back. Had my WB set up the same (arrow over berger hole).

mjqood0

Thanks for the illustration.

I checked my bow tonight. Looks like the shop put the whisker bisquit too low. When I nock an arrow, the plunger hole (berger hole) was pretty much fully visible. Guess i'll have to move it.

Also, they set up my nock point which is a whole other debate. I'm still not sure how i'm going to move it up or down. I'm shooting with a string loop, and let me tell you, it might spin, but it won't budge at all in the virticle direction.[:'(]

Carwi: You mention that you have specs on how far the arrow should be from the riser. Since I purchased my bow used, it didn't come with any manual to speak of. Is there a web site dedicated to gathering this information? Also, is there any easy way to check for 90 degree angle from arrow to string? It seems like the bottom knot on the string loop is in the way of getting a square in there as well as the fletching of the arrows.

Thanks again for all the friendly help. It is most appreciated!

Stryker777

You can get a "Bow Tuning Set" at walmart for less than $10. Not sure on the price but it was cheap. It has a square that clips onto your string. Put an arrow in and set the bottom of the square on the arrow. Then adjust the loop. I used needle nose pliers wrapped with electrical tape so they were not abrasive. It was very tight. After adjusting I pulled it once with my release and it tightened up very nice. Then I verified it again with the arrow and square and it was good. The set is just a square that clips onto the string and a pair of nock pliers.
Good luck

mjqood0

Thanks Stryker777! That sounds like a good investment to add to my quickly expanding bow toolbox!