Tuning: Adjusting Nock Position
09-23-2004, 08:43 PM
#11
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Albemarle, NC
Posts: 149
RE: Tuning: Adjusting Nock Position
mjqood0,
I would get the kit Stryker777 is talking about. I personally use a level that clips on a string that measures only horizontally and place it atop my arrow to square that. Then I level my string up with a regular small bubble level for vertical string squaring. I do this while the bow is in a vise and it can be a bit time consuming. Remember you may still have to move your nock point when you tune, however I haven't had to do so when I used the above methods. You can get a set like Stryker777 mentioned at Cabelas.Com also. Here is the link: R.S. String Level. As for moving your loop? Well, you'll probably have to losen it a bit using wrapped needle nose pliers like Stryker said (to keep from fraying your loop) and reposition it. You may end up having to tie in another one. Like I said earlier, tie in one knot and put your arrow on the string and move the one knot up and down until your arrow is level, then cinch it tight and tie in the other knot of the loop leaving room for your arrow. Here is a picture of the R.S. String level kit.
If you can't find information about the recommended centershot on your bow, try to contact customer service at the company that made your bow and see if they can tell you. If not, then you can take a few of your field tipped arrows and shoot a group at a small dot at 10yds and set a pin for that distance. Leave them in the target. Then move the target to 35yds and shoot at the same dot using the same pin with a few more arrows of the same weight. If your center shot is correct the arrows should be low but not left or right of the original 10yd set. If the 35yd group is left then move your rest to the right until the 35yd and 10yd groups line up. Now granted this doesn't fully tune your bow but it will get your center shot very close. Just remember to have a large target to shoot at so your arrows wont hit the ground before your target set at 35yds! I suppose you could set it at 30 and be fine as well. Sorry for the long post. Hope this helps.
I would get the kit Stryker777 is talking about. I personally use a level that clips on a string that measures only horizontally and place it atop my arrow to square that. Then I level my string up with a regular small bubble level for vertical string squaring. I do this while the bow is in a vise and it can be a bit time consuming. Remember you may still have to move your nock point when you tune, however I haven't had to do so when I used the above methods. You can get a set like Stryker777 mentioned at Cabelas.Com also. Here is the link: R.S. String Level. As for moving your loop? Well, you'll probably have to losen it a bit using wrapped needle nose pliers like Stryker said (to keep from fraying your loop) and reposition it. You may end up having to tie in another one. Like I said earlier, tie in one knot and put your arrow on the string and move the one knot up and down until your arrow is level, then cinch it tight and tie in the other knot of the loop leaving room for your arrow. Here is a picture of the R.S. String level kit.
If you can't find information about the recommended centershot on your bow, try to contact customer service at the company that made your bow and see if they can tell you. If not, then you can take a few of your field tipped arrows and shoot a group at a small dot at 10yds and set a pin for that distance. Leave them in the target. Then move the target to 35yds and shoot at the same dot using the same pin with a few more arrows of the same weight. If your center shot is correct the arrows should be low but not left or right of the original 10yd set. If the 35yd group is left then move your rest to the right until the 35yd and 10yd groups line up. Now granted this doesn't fully tune your bow but it will get your center shot very close. Just remember to have a large target to shoot at so your arrows wont hit the ground before your target set at 35yds! I suppose you could set it at 30 and be fine as well. Sorry for the long post. Hope this helps.
09-23-2004, 09:49 PM
#12
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 3,903
RE: Tuning: Adjusting Nock Position
In another one's words, one should not move one's rest since one's arrow should passs though one's berger hole. One should move one's nock on one's string instead. If one moved one's rest it would probably not line up with one's berger hole. One's Easton Chart probably should have pointed that out to one.
Thanks I needed that , one has had a rough day!
09-23-2004, 09:58 PM
#13
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 140
RE: Tuning: Adjusting Nock Position
Also, they set up my nock point which is a whole other debate. I'm still not sure how i'm going to move it up or down. I'm shooting with a string loop, and let me tell you, it might spin, but it won't budge at all in the virticle direction.[:'(]
Carwi: You mention that you have specs on how far the arrow should be from the riser. Since I purchased my bow used, it didn't come with any manual to speak of. Is there a web site dedicated to gathering this information? Also, is there any easy way to check for 90 degree angle from arrow to string? It seems like the bottom knot on the string loop is in the way of getting a square in there as well as the fletching of the arrows.
Carwi: You mention that you have specs on how far the arrow should be from the riser. Since I purchased my bow used, it didn't come with any manual to speak of. Is there a web site dedicated to gathering this information? Also, is there any easy way to check for 90 degree angle from arrow to string? It seems like the bottom knot on the string loop is in the way of getting a square in there as well as the fletching of the arrows.
IF the loop would budge at all in the vertical direction they would be worthless as a nock.
If you have a braded serving you would need to untie the loop & retie it in a different spot.
One should be able to download a manual from Browning off the web & if not, most companies have a tech that is glad to answer questions about their bows.
There are diverse types of squares, there will be one that works on your bow.
09-24-2004, 06:32 AM
#14
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 2,413
RE: Tuning: Adjusting Nock Position
Often, you have to loosen a string loop to move it. I use a catfish loop with tied-on string nocks, which move easily whenever I want to make an adjustment. What's really nice about my set-up is that I can move it within a couple seconds and I can make micro-adjustments easily and accurately. This is a great aid when tuning the bow.
