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Dumb question I am sure...
for most of you. Is it hard to remove and put on new fletchings? If it is easy do you have any tips on how or a web sight that explains it, I am down to 3 good arrows due to fletching issues and would like to not have to drive 75 miles to get new ones put on.
![]() The Tazman |
RE: Dumb question I am sure...
To remove old fletching, I use a curved razor blade that I bought from a hobby store. It works great, plus it resharpens nice.
I am a finicky person with my arrows, so just for my own piece of mind, I always refletch the whole arrow when I damage a fletch. I use a bitz jig for all my fletchings. For my compound, I use vanes. AAE. I use a 91% alchohol solution to prep everything before applying glue. I also buy my glue from the hobby shop, I believe that it is Niagra glue. It works incredible and is cheap. I dislike most of the bonding agents make for fletching for some reason. I hold the clamp on for about 45 seconds on each fletch, and don't shoot the arrow till the next day. I would ask your hobby shop manager about which type to use. Hope that helps. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> |
RE: Dumb question I am sure...
Let me guess, the only place I can get these jigs is an archery shop. How much are they about? I would assume that they are a must to get them on correctly?
![]() The Tazman |
RE: Dumb question I am sure...
http://www.cabelas.com/ You can get a jig from them :) no driving!
Edited by - grndzer on 03/01/2002 12:26:44 |
RE: Dumb question I am sure...
Here is where I get most of my arrow building stuff.
Bitz Jig $59 http://www.fsdiscountarchery.com/arrow.htm |
RE: Dumb question I am sure...
Wow, now I am really confused, so many choices, do I want right helical, left, straight 4 degree, 1 degree????? Which is better for hunting? Holy cow, maybe I should pay to get them refletched. HELP!!!
![]() The Tazman |
RE: Dumb question I am sure...
I fletch my own and fletch them stright with a little offset and use a jarjan multifletcher which sells for about 70-80 bucks I believe.
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RE: Dumb question I am sure...
It really depends on your personal preference. Remember that you can get am offset with the straight clamp. I use both the straight for my compound arrows and a left helical for my recurve arrow. If you have adjustable nocks on your arrows, then you really don't have to worry much about the reciever. If you don't use adjustable nocks, then make sure that you get the right nock receiver for yourself (cock feather down, or out).
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RE: Dumb question I am sure...
We use the Bitz too, with left helical for broadheads.
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RE: Dumb question I am sure...
I've used a BPE jig and right helical clamp for years. One thing you need to realize is that you'll have a pretty good initial cost, but be able to do a lot of arrows before you'll need anything more than glue. I like the right helical because it seems to help keep the points tighter, plus with some jigs the left helical clamp produces more helical than the left (bitz). I use Duravanes with Bohning fast set gel and can fletch a dozen arrows in a little over an hour. I'd also suggest buying vanes by the 100 as the 36 packs that some places sell will cost about as much.
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RE: Dumb question I am sure...
Taz, with aluminums, I pull the vane off and the balance I scrape off with a knife. If necessary I use a little scotch-brite to remove the residue. I happen to use alcohol to clean the surface afterward.
I use an Az. E-Z Fletch that does all three vanes at one time, or you can do one or two only if you wish. The nock receiver is adjustable for whatever you want. It takes you a few arrows to get used to it, but if you're not trying to mass produce arrows it works great. It's really easy to do and you can order any colors you want. "Hunt smart, know your target and beyond" |
RE: Dumb question I am sure...
Taz,
I use an Arizona E-Z Fletch. Last I saw, they were about $35. They have interchangeable clamps (i.e. alum straight/offset, carbon sm. diam, etc). Go with an offset and vanes. On my carbons I use AAE's with super glue gel. No fancy prep. Just glue, let set and the vane will rip before the base lets go. Clean old vanes with a dull pocket knife. Good luck. |
RE: Dumb question I am sure...
Really confused, Taz??? I was too, but you can figure it out pretty quickly as it is a simple process. What gets confusing is all the jargon and options.
Go to www.eastonarchery.com and download their tuning guide (full version). This has a section on tuning your bow, duh, and most importantly for you a section on building and fletching all types of arrows. It is an invaluable resourse. The Mouse |
RE: Dumb question I am sure...
It doesn't whether you use RH or LH. Except presumably your current arrows are set up that way. Buy a fletcher with an adjustible nock carrier. This allows you to set your carrier to your arrow, so that you can fletch arrows with only one fletch missing. A lot of the jigs don't alolw you to adjustthe nock in the carrier, so that while you can tune the nocks afterward, you can't make repairs on fletch at a time, without also removing the nock. Fletching is easy, and you will save a lot of money making future arrows from raw shafts. I use the blitz
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RE: Dumb question I am sure...
A lot of good info, thank you one and all, mouse thanks for the link, I will check it out in depth and report back how badly I messed up or how well I did.
![]() The Tazman |
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