"HELP" before i do somthing stupid.
08-30-2004, 08:37 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location:
Posts: 6
"HELP" before i do somthing stupid.
I have a Bear Super Mag with 55lbs &29inch draw. I went to bass pro and they have dozens of different arrows and lenths. How do i choose the right style and do i add 2inchs to my draw lenth to get my arrow lenth?. I saw some arrows that said xt,xxt,xlt,ect, what does this stand for? Also how do tell if the arrow is made for a 55lb draw? I haved seen arrows shatter apon relese,and i do not want that to happen to me,much less to anyone else. P.S. Thanks for all your help,sorry to be asking all these questions,but i am a new to bow hunting.
08-30-2004, 09:07 AM
#2
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Maine
Posts: 3,555
RE: "HELP" before i do somthing stupid.
Welcome aboard pitfall.
I've got a couple of questions. What type of shaft (alluminum or carbon and also what manufacturer) do you want to shoot? What weight heads will you be shooting or dose it matter to you?
As far as arrow length a shop can measure it for you or you can draw a long arrow and have a friend can mark 1 inch beyond your arrow rest at full draw. If you are using a fixed blade broadhead make sure your broadheads clear the riser.
I've got a couple of questions. What type of shaft (alluminum or carbon and also what manufacturer) do you want to shoot? What weight heads will you be shooting or dose it matter to you?
As far as arrow length a shop can measure it for you or you can draw a long arrow and have a friend can mark 1 inch beyond your arrow rest at full draw. If you are using a fixed blade broadhead make sure your broadheads clear the riser.
08-30-2004, 09:08 AM
#3
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: "HELP" before i do somthing stupid.
There are so many different arrow makers and designations now that I don't guess anyone could keep track of all of 'em. It's even gotten confusing for us crusty ol' veterans.
Generally, the letters are grade designations and numbers indicate spine range. The more letters, the higher the grade and the price.
When it comes to spine, things really get confusing. Some outfits use higher numbers to indicate higher spine. Some use lower numbers for higher spine. Some use the spine range AS their arrow size.
The only way to know what is the approximate size you need is to know your arrow length and draw weight, choose a particular brand and model arrow, then use one of that company's sizing charts.
Arrow length... Some guys like their arrows to be just long enough to stick about 1/2" past their arrow rest. Some are concerned about broadheads safety and like their arrows to extend about 1/2" past the back of the riser (back meaning the side furthest from you when you've got the bow drawn). The thinking is that an arrow that long cannot lodge the broadhead against the wrist if it falls off the rest. Shortening the arrow to just beyond the rest allows a slight reduction in arrow weight for a tiny bit more speed, and might allow the shooter to use a lesser spined arrow. That's just personal preference.
So, arrow length is okay anywhere between those two extremes. (Actually, it doesn't matter how much your arrow sticks out past the riser as long as the arrow is spined properly. It just adds unnecessary weight.) If you decide to go shorter, just make sure that your riser gives enough clearance for your broadhead to pass cleanly.
Generally, the letters are grade designations and numbers indicate spine range. The more letters, the higher the grade and the price.
When it comes to spine, things really get confusing. Some outfits use higher numbers to indicate higher spine. Some use lower numbers for higher spine. Some use the spine range AS their arrow size. The only way to know what is the approximate size you need is to know your arrow length and draw weight, choose a particular brand and model arrow, then use one of that company's sizing charts.
Arrow length... Some guys like their arrows to be just long enough to stick about 1/2" past their arrow rest. Some are concerned about broadheads safety and like their arrows to extend about 1/2" past the back of the riser (back meaning the side furthest from you when you've got the bow drawn). The thinking is that an arrow that long cannot lodge the broadhead against the wrist if it falls off the rest. Shortening the arrow to just beyond the rest allows a slight reduction in arrow weight for a tiny bit more speed, and might allow the shooter to use a lesser spined arrow. That's just personal preference.
So, arrow length is okay anywhere between those two extremes. (Actually, it doesn't matter how much your arrow sticks out past the riser as long as the arrow is spined properly. It just adds unnecessary weight.) If you decide to go shorter, just make sure that your riser gives enough clearance for your broadhead to pass cleanly.
