field points to broadheads
 

Ok, time to get some arrows with broadheads. My field tips are mated to Carbon Revolution Extreme Impact 300. Total weight of arrow is 421 grains. Idaho has a 400 grain minimum and I will abide by that. (what, the CO is carrying a grain scale in the field?) Been shooting pretty good groups at 10, 15, and 20 yds with the field tips. I am going to purchase arrows (the same) designated broadheads only, no switching back and forth. Been doing some searching and reading at this site and others. So my questions are these. Depending on the broadhead I select, should I have the arrow shaft shortened to coincide with field tip arrow length? What about going with a lighter broadhead in relation to field tips? I have a few grains to spare to be legal and would still be over 6 grains\lb. Obviously I am trying to optimize broadhead flight and now am thinking I should have just begun with shooting broadheads. I have a 29" draw, and am pulling 60 pounds. Thanks in advance.

RE: field points to broadheads
 

If you shorten or lengthen your arrow, you may change the spine enough to change things. By going to a lighter b-head, you may gain a little speed, but not necessarily stability. I would use the same length arrow, and weight broadhead you are tuned with.

RE: field points to broadheads
 

It is a good idea to designate your broad head arrows. I have six set aside that have been spun and checked with each broad head that is mated to it. I use identical arrows for practice with the same weight field point. I use 100 grain field points and 100 grain 3-blade Muzzys.

I would say it is a bad idea to shorten your arrow, not only for spine reasons but also for FOC if you take too much off. This will mess with how level your arrow flies to the target. Once you get your arrows tuned and set up for field points, do not change anything to accomodate your broad head other than spin testing the arrow with the broad head and keeping the same broad head and arrow mates.

Also, if you are going to use a fixed blade, like Muzzy, try them out ahead of time at given ranges to make sure you have proper arrow flight before you get into the stand.

RE: field points to broadheads
 

Thanks. Picked up some Muzzy's 100's last night, shafts cut to same length as target arrows. I asked the pro shop owner if he spinned tested, and his reply was along the lines of it is my responsibility to handle the broadheads, he doesn't touch broadheads unless they're his own, wouldn't want to cut up his fingers right before season. I inquired about spin testing and he shook his head, no, and pointed to a sign hanging up on the wall, "No whining about broadhead flight". Well anyway, I bought some of the Muzzy practice blades as well. Now I know why they call them practice blades! Muzzy's directions are a bit, ummm, Fuzzy. It took me so long to figure out how to get them assembled, I am sure I would've been shredded by the hunting blades. Well, now I know. Luckily I had been reading this site so I knew to line the blades up with my vanes by applying a little heat to the broadhead to loosen the glue on the insert, funny thing the pro-shop guy didn't mention anything about this step. I am going to shoot them later today and see what happens.

RE: field points to broadheads
 

Personally.....I would probably have went to a 90 grain and shot 100 grain field points !
And.......it's not recommended to heat carbon shafts.....it weakens them (from what I've been told). Also if you can turn your broadhead after they are heated......I would be skeptical of what kind of adhensive was used ! Carbons usually require a good epoxy or something similar ! Hotmelt is usually used for aluminum shafts !

And .......you don't have to line up your braodhead with your fletchings.......a lot of people like to........but it makes absolutely no difference in my experience .

The only way your going to get excellent flight with the Muzzy's is to have your bow tuned, arrows spinning true, correct spined arrows, and have your shooting form down ! Muzzy's will fly fine.....don't get me wrong......the above is true of any fixed blade head IMO !!

Good Luck !!

RE: field points to broadheads
 

CBM is right on. I can add little or nothing to his advice. Man, I do hope those things were aluminum arrows though. And your shop guy was not out of line just in case you need to know. It is not their job to take care of all the little details such as spin-testing arrows. That's akin to taking your car back to the dealer every time you want to get the air in your tires checked. You learn to do this stuff yourself, which you are doing, and you'll have a much better understanding of what makes all this stuff work and how to correct flaws. Then you'll be like a lot of us on here. Not asking a lot of questions, but passing on the info to another based on what you've learned. And I can say, there's always something to learn in this sport. Good luck.

RE: field points to broadheads
 

they aren't aluminum, carbon. I didn't put the heat to the carbon, but just heated the broadhead toward the tip. I didn't think the shop guy was out of line, he has a pretty dry sense of humor and I do think his sign is funny "No whining about broadhead flight". I am just totally new to the archery gig and didn't realize that shops don't dink w\broadies. That is why I go to the pro shop for things such as arrow cutting, and to ensure I have the right gear. I thought spin testing was something done at the shop with a machine, I don't know. I do have two friends that shoot carbons and have heated the head before to get things lined up. The carbon looks to be in good shape, didn't get hot, and this was a regular Bic held a couple of inches below the broadhead just enough to be hot to the touch but the adhesive was still stiff enough that it wasn't all loosey goosey. I am pretty sure he used epoxy, at least that is what it looked like to me when he set the inserts. When I looked and checked them this morning everything was tight. I am pretty techy when it comes to stuff, bikes, guns, skis, cars, but one thing I have noticed about the archery gig is the lack of detailed instructions included with the gear, sites, rest, bow. To me that makes it harder to learn and adjust things. I mean I am dreading shooting the broadies because of all the horror stories I have read here. I haven't had to adjust my sights yet, I have a very rudimentary knowledge of how the TR Matrix Guide works, when do I adjust the pins versus when do adjust the windage\elevation? 1-2 inches off for pins, 4-6 inches off for windage\elevation?

RE: field points to broadheads
 

Pheasbo, if you heated the tip enough to loosen the epoxy it is possible that enough heat was transferred to the shaft to break up the glue holding the layers together. By heating the tip you are indirectly heating the shaft as some of the heat will be transferred from the insert/tip to the shaft. Never heat carbon arrows.

RE: field points to broadheads
 

Well........I'm not the expert......and still learning a lot myself !! [8D]:D

Someone else can probably fill you in on the disadvantages of heating carbon arrows(even heat transferred throught the ferrule) ........much better than myself ! But I know via all these guys,shop owners,etc. that heat weakens the carbon.........I I doubt you would be able to tell at all ! What I would be worried about is that end cracking or something later......after hitting targets or just the stress of the shot !

Also .........if you watched him glue your inserts......did he heat up a glue stick or did you see him mix a 2 part epoxy.......or use something out of a bottle/tube etc. ??? Reason I am asking........is I have seen lazy people at some shops before use hot melt for carbon and all the sudden you start losing inserts like crazy in targets ! Also I personally have had arrows made up.......where the guy just used a quick set fletching bond on my inserts .......naturally......most came out over time [:@]..........but I didn't know back then [&o] !!!

You can make your own spin tester (do a search......there was a thread recently) or buy one ! I bought one from Cabelas for like $25 or something ! You basically just lay your arrow on it and spin it...........checking to see if you have a wobble on the nock end or insert end ! If your arrows don't spin perfect.......they are going to give you varying results when you shoot broadheads (making it nearly impossible to tune your bow to shoot a group) !

Your correct.........archery doesn't come with a magic handbook.......and it can get frustrating ! Do yourself a favor and ask all the questions you can ........read whatever you can........educate yourself as much as possible !!;)

RE: field points to broadheads
 

It wasn't a glue stick, it was a 2-part epoxy mix. I guess I understand the reasoning behind the heating loosening the bond holding the carbon layers together. However, I have cut carbon bars for mountain bikes, the friction of cutting does make the carbon hot, ironically enough these are Easton bars and I cut them as Easton directed. Along that line, when arrows are cut to length wouldn't that heat the carbon layers even more than a lighter, potentially weakening the carbon bond? I will just have to shoot them and inspect upon each removal from the target. Thanks again, you guys are a wealth of info.