Buckem

Just got my Outback and added on my accessories,excited to go shoot. I have the whisker biscuit drop tine rest, hha optimizer 5000 1 pin sight , ultra-nok D-loop, Fletcher tru-peep,and Winn Flight release. I sighted it in @ 15 yds. then tryed to paper tune it. It tore low and to the left, about 8 o'clock position. I raised my nok and moved the rest all the way to the right. I got a near perfect hole(a little tear to the left yet). The problem is the arrow vanes are touching my riser on release because of the far right rest set up(way off center according to the in-line grip mark on the Outback). When the arrow is nocked and @ rest it is no where near level, and since my rest is so far right my riser covers almost half the round part of my sight.
To top things off I can't keep the damn tru-peep straight to save my life either. It is perfectly centered in the zebra twist string(seperated the color strands).[&o]
Any help is much appreciated!!!

ewolf

Set you arrow rest in line with the middle line of the grip. The reason for your tear is the spine of the arrow. What bow poundage, arrows and point weight are your arrows?

BOWFANATIC

I would go back to square one and start over. Set your rest at center shot and your nock height at 1/8" high. Start shooting thru paper again and concentrate on perfect form to make sure your not torquing your bow. Also make sure your shooting the correct spined arrows which is most important.

Buckem

I'm shooting Cabela's extreme stalker carbon arrow for 65-80 lbs., Muzzy 100 grain 4-blade heads and my draw weight is 63 lbs. The arrow should be plenty stiff.
The bow does torque right but I have a level on the sight that I am watching carefully when I shoot. Also heard complaints about the grip on the Outback. I really like the feel of it and shoot with a loose relaxed grip and bow sling so don't think that is it. Keep suggestions coming please!

BOWFANATIC

How long are your arrows?

Buckem

End of shaft to beginning of nock 27 1/2" and have 28" draw length.

BOWFANATIC

I'm not familiar with cabelas arrows at all but at that length I wouldn't think you'd be underspined at all , maybe a little overspined which is o.k.

Anyway , you should still start from scratch again. Concentrate on perfect form and try keeping your bow arm straight a few seconds after the shot.

Was your tear getting worse or staying pretty consistant as you moved your rest?

You can also try moving the rest the opposite way thats suggested by Eastons tuning guide. I've seen it work on plenty of occasions.

When I refer to form I'm not suggesting that your form is bad , I'm mostly refering to hand torque. I've helped alot of my buddies achieve bullet holes without moving the rest by concentrating on form/follow thru.
A few of them refused to believe that it could be torque by pointing out the relaxed (open hand) grip they used. Then while watching them shoot I noticed that the open hand grip at the start of the shot was replaced by a death grip after the shot. I think they thought their bow slings were for looks. After getting over the scare that their bow was going to fly out of their hands if they kept a relaxed grip all the way thru they started shooting bullet holes.
I'm not sure if this is your problem or not but I thought I'd give you some things to consider.

Also , after you start from scratch again. If your still getting left tears try backing up from the paper. I'd bet your getting bullet holes at 7 - 10 yards.

Buckem

I shot 3 times into the paper all with the same pattern. I adjusted the nock and rest twice to get it as close to perfect as I could. After each adjustment I shot twice and tears where consistent both times. When I shot through the paper it was @ 8' as suggested by Mathews. Tomorrow I'll have to re-do everything and hold back from the paper a little farther and see what happens. Also I'm going to by a new release with a 360' swivel and see if that helps.
Also anyone have suggestions on keeping the tru-peep straight? Add more twists to the string?

dwaasp

In the beginning after you know there is no fletching contact & you have chose an acceptable arrow from the maker’s charts: work on the nocking point, (vertical aspect of the tear) first, before moving the rest.

And if you have initial suggestions from the Pro Shop or Company(manual or mouth), do not stray a long ways from them(1/8” plus or minus): because a large movement indicates there are other problems. And the Shop is where it will end up if the bow is not working suitable.

Derbytown

You also might want to check the timing on your cam

http://www.thearchershome.com/mathews_information.htm

This may be the answer to your troubles. Just my two cents. Be safe.
Shoot Straight
Derbytown