NEED HELP with OUTBACK and LEFT tears
 

Hello Everyone,

I am extremely frustrated and have spent hours on end at two different bow shops trying to correct my problem. Here's my set-up: I am shooting a Mathews Outback, 70 lbs (currently set at 63 lbs), 30" draw. Accessories are; Gold Tip, 3D-Pro 55/75, cut to 29" with 100 grain tips (approximately 401 grains with tips and eze-eye cresting and fletching). I am using a Trap Door rest and a string loop.

I am trying to get bow tuned to shoot broadheads and cannot get them to fly worth a darn. I use Montec G5's.

Before we start - I'd like to say that I am probably a well "above" archer, my anchor and draw is identical each time and a shoot with an open grip. When my set-up is correct, I typically shoot 10 out of 12 arrows in the bulls at 30 yards. I guess what I am saying is this should not be a form problem. I've read some of the earlier post that the Outback had some problems with the cams early on and was wondering if maybe this could be my problem, as I bought the very first Outback to hit the Tulsa, OK area.

Tuning - Everything is dead-on and I get 1 1/2 - 2" tears to the left and a little low. I know that typically this means an underspined arrow, but I shot several other arrows of greater spine and ALL of them shot with left tears. Some were a little better, some were worse. What I have noticed is that the riser torques a little to the right at full-draw. The only fix to this would be for me to grip the bow and squeeze it back into position and we all know that that isn't a cure.

Mathews Tech and pro's - please help!!!!!!!

RE: NEED HELP with OUTBACK and LEFT tears
 

the only way to fix it is to rip of that crappy grip and put on an after market. The tears are IMO from riser torque induced by the worst grip in creation.

RE: NEED HELP with OUTBACK and LEFT tears
 

EDIT..

me stupid..me not read whole post carefully...:(

nevermind...

RE: NEED HELP with OUTBACK and LEFT tears
 

LOL...it's funny...I hated the old Mathews grip Chuck, but I like the competition grip...you definitely don't want to get too much thumb into it...and most guys do..

RE: NEED HELP with OUTBACK and LEFT tears
 

Dale...I would suggest trying a different gruip style..first off if you don't use a sling, do.

second, Imagine just holding out your arm (shoulder down), and pointing at something with your first finger..your hand is almost sideways....now put your hand into the grip like that..you can relax your other 3 fingers..have your first finger curve around the grip and touch the tip of your thumb but make sure there is little to no contact with the front of the grip, and you don't want much palm on the heel of the grip, either...

As you aim mentally "push" your thumb towards the target...see if that helps...

RE: NEED HELP with OUTBACK and LEFT tears
 

the comp grip is better......not hard to do.....LOL..........

But I still cannot use a low grip with it and not get some torque. Any pressure down low and [:'(][:'(]

If I lay it outside my lifeline into the thumb I can practically feel it sliding off to the side. I still think its a bad grip with two much curve down low.

I am fully convinced mathews continues to make that grip style for the masses of grip it and rip it shooters. it feels good when you wrap your hands around it - what most guys do - but its very hard to shoot it correctly - what most guys don't

RE: NEED HELP with OUTBACK and LEFT tears
 

Rack - I might have to agree with you. I put a Loesch grip on my LX and shot the best groups I've ever shot.

Jeff - I shoot exactly the way you mentioned, but without touching my index finger to the thumb.

I recon I'll go back at lunch and give er one more try before I put it on Ebay. Lol

RE: NEED HELP with OUTBACK and LEFT tears
 

well..two things I noticed...

first of all..why not try another loesch grip before you sell it?

and second...

Your arrow rest...The Trapdoor has a tendancy to "crap out" all of a sudden with no warning and you may be getting contact or not enough guidance.....do you have another rest to try?

RE: NEED HELP with OUTBACK and LEFT tears
 

Well.......I hate to admit this, but most of it was me!! I tinkered with it some more when one of the shop shooters showed up and offered some help. First, he shot the bow with a back tension release and shot a perfect bullet hole.

We started with the grip and worked backwards. The grip is torquing in my hand, even though I handle it very well (my hands are pretty small vs the shop shooter). Thinking about taking the sander to it!

Second, we looked at the draw length. My anchor point is low compared to most archers, as I anchor my right thumb behind my neck and bring the string to the tip of my nose. We found that I was getting into the string just a tad.

We shortened my loop and put a few twist into the string and buss cables to shorten my draw to approximately 29 1/2". My tears are tremendously better. Haven't shot broadheads with it yet, but am hopeful that they will fly now.

Just goes to show you that you should get help when you encounter problems like this.

RE: NEED HELP with OUTBACK and LEFT tears
 

I just posted about the same problem before I checked the other posts. Coincidence? My Outback is doing the exact same thing. Is it possible that I am doing the exact same things wrong as you are? I have the whisker biscuit rest set up all the way to the right and am still getting a slight tear to the left. I have a level on my sight that I am watching like a hawk because like you stated the bow does torque right. Off to the archery shop for shooting 101 I guess.

RE: NEED HELP with OUTBACK and LEFT tears
 

I took the Dremel to the grip last night and carved away.............felt better in my hand shooting at home last night, but still not sure if I'm getting the same result. I did shoot some broadheads and they flew pretty good (relatively close to my field tips).

I'm going back to the pro shop this afternoon to see if the carving has helped on paper. It still boggles me that the way I grip the bow would cause the left tearing. I've NEVER had this problem with any other bow, including the LX, Legacy, Q2, etc. etc.

Now, I've got to convince my mind that the problem has been resolved and to get back to whacking the spot.

RE: NEED HELP with OUTBACK and LEFT tears
 

One may not want to shoot a Broadhead before a bow is tuned well, one can miss a target & they cost a lot of money. A 1.5” tear at 1 yd is a another story from 1.5 at 8 yds. Before the center shot bow a few had to be shot with some tear.

In some part, the fall-away is supposed to remove some of the problems of grip, form & torque.

To activate with inertia may sound like less trouble & less assemble. But the minute changes in form, grip, & torque we thought we may be helping to some degree, may trigger this rest at different points.

My opinion on any fall-away is that it should fall away (before) the acceleration pressure on the string comes to an end(8-10” of the power stroke, depend on draw length), so the bow does not become loose in ones hand & moves forward. This is where one may rid some of the sins of the bow hand. But this is perhaps the tug, that triggers the trap door.