Significant Fletch Contact.
 

Not enough to throw my shots off, but enough to mess up my vanes. I'll run you through what's happening with pictures so you'll know exactely what I'm talking about.

So a couple nights ago I refletch all my arrows because I noticed that they were looking a little worn. I guess you could say they were looking really "broken in" so to speak. I decided to shoot today since it wasn't breezy like it has been for the last couple of days.


Those are my vanes before I got home today.

Now for some reason, when Martin made the Jaguar bow, they made the slot that you screw your rest into differen't than most other companies that I've noticed. Rather than having a hole or two to screw the rest into, you have a slot. I purchased a QuickTune 2000 Drop Away when I bought my bow. The bolt that came with the rest was too short for me to be able to screw the rest into the slot. I was forced to purchase a completely differen't bolt that for some reason won't hold the rest in position like it should, keeping the arrow from contacting it after the shot.


Here you can see the slot I'm talking about along with the aftermarket bolt I had to buy in order to fit the rest on the bow.

On nearly every arrow I shot today, I noticed that each left a small amount of rubber from the vane that was contacting on the rest, leaving me to beleive that there is a significant amount of contact. If it were minimal, it wouldn't leave any markings, right?


Here you'll notice the white markings I'm talking about on the left hand side of the rest.

For some reason this isn't affecting my shots as much as you would think, I can still hit where I'm aiming, and I can group my arrows very well. For some, this might not seem like a problem, but to a perfectionist it's a nightmare. It's causing a wave like appearance to my vanes and it's leaving little indentations along one side of the vane making contact. I really don't have the money to be able to refletch my arrows after every time I shoot, and I sure don't have enough to buy a new rest.


Wave like appearance.


Indents on the side of the vane making contact.

So, has anyone ever experienced a problem like this? I was told by one person that any bow shooting speeds over 240 fps with the QT2000 will make contact, but I find this hard to beleive. Why would NAP put a product like that out on the market? If you've experienced this before, what did you do to fix the problem? Any help is greatly appreciated.

RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

I'll assume that this was not a problem with the arrows before you re-fletched, so something during the process has created the problem.
With that assumption, I'd start by checking knock alignment.I created a similar problem when I decided to replace some broken nocks one time- didn't pay particular careful attention to the alignment, and had them off enough to create contact where there was none before.
The other things I would take a look at are:
1. are the new vanes similar in lenght and profile to the old?
2. is the degree of offset the same as the old?
3. did you inadvertently change from a helical to a straight fletch (or vice versa)?

hoped something here will help, good luck, and please post your correction when you find it!

RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

Have you tried shooting cock vane up? That might solve your problem. I'm not familiar with the QT2000, but is there a way to adjust the drop timing?

RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

Actually the same thing was happening before, that's why I decided to refletch. The vanes were starting to look really worn, 2 or 3 times as bad as in the picture.Perhaps I should refletch again and switch from helical to a straight fletch and try that? I mean this really isn't THAT big of a deal, it isn't affecting my shots any, but I'd really like to fix the problem so I don't have to refletch as often.

Yes I've tried shooting cock vane up, but the cock vane STILL for some reason makes contact in the same spot.

RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

sounds like you could try a straight fletch, or rotate the nock slightly.
I'm not familiar with your rest either, and it's hard to get a good overall picture of it from the one picture you have.

RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

Ok, I don't know if these will help, but here are 6 differen't shots of my rest.








Maybe they'll help, maybe they won't, you be the judge.

RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

Nocking point may be too low causing the fletch to bottom out on the rest.
Have you paper tuned the bow to see if you are getting a clean hole thru paper?

If not you may need to.

RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

one thing I can see for sure is that those prongs look awfully short which could be the problem.

RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

I did paper tune and I was shooting clean holes.

The prongs are the ones that came with the rest. Even if they were longer, how would that help? Wouldn't they just hit the prong rather than the base then?

RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

longer prongs would get it farther away from the base.
are you using the steel cable if so ditch it and get some string loop material and serve it on your down buss cable. Make sure the rest is coming all the way up only 1 to 2 inches from full draw.
if you hace the rest coming up too soon the rest dont have enough time to fall completley out of the way of the fletching.

RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

How is using string loop material going to affect the rest versus the steel cable?

RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

the cable is too rigid for it to work properly.
the rest needs to come up only 1 to 2 inches from full draw to work properly because you need the rest to start dropping ASAP!

RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

From the look on the positioning of your rest I think you might want to try and slide the rest back towards you the shooter and then maybe lower it just a bit so the ends of the launchers are the only part contacting the riser. Seems to me you have too much of the launchers on your arrow shelf, so they can't fall away far enough for your arrow to clear. I waould also try moving your nocking point up 1/16" at a time to see if you can get clearance.

RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

First thing you need to do is get the rest squared up with the riser. The back end of that thing is sitting up so high I'm surprised your arrows aren't doing cartwheels down the range![&:] I have a feeling once you conquer that rediculous slot thing and get that rest to stay squared up and tight you're problem will go away.

RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

Your first and #1 problem is that the rest is not on properly , you have the back of the rest up too high , it should be perfectly level with the slot in the risor , or come off of the back of the risor at 90 degrees , the way you have it installed the back of the rest is to high , and that takes about half of the travel away from its function . Put it on level and see what happens , you can rotate your nocks slightly allso , after you have done this and the vane "may" pass thru the slot between the prongs . You can try nock up as has been sugested , but then may run into another vane hitting your cabel . Some rests dont work on some bows so that is a posability . If you were shooting feathers you would still get good flight , thats why I shoot them . Drop away rests definatly arnt allways the answer to fletching contact isues as you [and many others , and myself] have found out .

edit , do a search for nap2000 and nap4000 and there are other threads on here that deal with these rests .

RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

I agree the rest is to high. The rest is down when the arrow passes but there is not enough clearance.

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RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

I have a martin bow and it too has a slot where the rest bolt goes. What you need to get is a Allen head bolt with a nut. The allen head is round and will fit in the slot,I got mine at ACE hardware. Then you can adjust your rest.

RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

One more consideration to blur the view:

If the Allen bolt does not work for you, make a plug with threaded holes to fit the slot, make sure it fits on a slight taper so it will not shift, then install the rest as on all other bows.

Next your D-loop appears to have 2 brass nocks inside it. In my opinion?? There should be nothing, or at least no more than short string nocks that can be rotated up and down the serving for tuning the bow.

Before the high-speed center shot bow some contact could be tolerable & may not affect flight so much when feathers were used.
But the flight of a high-speed arrow is another story; I cannot see the over 240 contact myself. Even if you fletched your own arrows the cost in time would be great.

As I have stated on other Posts, when you have new fletching look at it very careful in a good light & do the same after every shot. Notice what fletch & what side the contact is on, that will be one clue.

I use another rest, but when one calls the company (for the bow or rest) about this kind of problem they usually help with info about the set-up.

RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

I have quite a bit of experience with this rest and its my rest of choice. Judging by the pictures, I think you have the rest mounted too high. I like to set them so that the block the prongs go in is just about level with the bottom of the shelf. Once you do that, loosen the screws that hold the prongs in the bottom of the block and slide them out a hair or so. This will get your arrows through the berger hole. Then set you nock point at 1/8 above square and go from there. Once I figured this out, I have yet to have any kind of contact issues with this rest. Very smooth and very quiet.

RE: Significant Fletch Contact.
 

Maybe I can be of some help on this. I have a Jaguar with this same rest on it and it works great. Most of your problems have already been covered but I will try to consolidate them a little. First off, your rest is mounted too high in back. Install it where the mount bracket is parallel with the slot and the bolt is as far to the back of the slot as it will go. I removed the lock screw at the front of the bracket and got a screw and nut from the hardware store that fit the threads and installed the nut on the screw. I then ran the screw with assembled nut into the hole where the lock screw was removed from the inside(arrow side of the riser to help hold the rest level. The prongs should contact the riser (actually the back of the arrow holder base) when at rest and use this as a stop for the prongs. not the pin in the bottom of the rest shaft. My bow is the two cam (Z cams) model and mine tuned up good with about 1/8"-3/16" nock high. Looks like you have already installed an upper cable guard which I did also and it works great. I have no problems with the steel cable and really prefer it. Set the timing to be fully up at 1 1/2" to 21/2" before full draw. If I can be of more help just email me and if you prefer you can email me a phone number and time to call I will give you a call as I have unlimited long distance service and it won't cost me anything. I hope this helps some.

Tommy