How do you tune?
#1
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Warren PA USA
Posts: 1,512

I've always paper tuned....then tuned my broadheads to shoot with my field points. This has ALWAYS resulted in identical groups(bh's and fp's) at all ranges that I shoot. I know plenty of you here don't recommend/utilize paper tuning....how do you tune your bow to be great? I tried bare shaft tuning, but all the info I could find on it was for finger shooting recurves and longbows. Group tuning? I don't understand how it works! Paper makes sense to me and bh/fp tuning works exceptionally well for me. I guess I just want to know how you guys with well tuned setups that use different methods than me, do it....thanks.
#2
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: CWD Central, WI.
Posts: 2,062

Assuming I'm ready to tune.
1. I plumb and level bow in vise.
2. Level arrow on rest through burger hole and set nock point 1/16th or
so high.
3. Eyeball center shot allowing for cam offset.
4. Set a 20 yard pin.
5. Shoot an end of arrows along a horizontal line(see pic if I have one).
make adjustments to nock point until all arrows run in straight line.
6. Shoot an end of arrows along a vertical line. Make adjustments to
centershot(rest) until all arrows are in line.
7. Shoot multiple groups at 40 yards, measuring each, and making
adjustments like above until groups are tight as my skill allows.
If I've done my part, BH's will hit with my groups. My problem is, when I shoot those groups at 60, I see space. If I see space, I constantly want to remove it.[
] Sometimes I just have to accept my groups, shoot and have fun.
1. I plumb and level bow in vise.
2. Level arrow on rest through burger hole and set nock point 1/16th or
so high.
3. Eyeball center shot allowing for cam offset.
4. Set a 20 yard pin.
5. Shoot an end of arrows along a horizontal line(see pic if I have one).
make adjustments to nock point until all arrows run in straight line.
6. Shoot an end of arrows along a vertical line. Make adjustments to
centershot(rest) until all arrows are in line.
7. Shoot multiple groups at 40 yards, measuring each, and making
adjustments like above until groups are tight as my skill allows.
If I've done my part, BH's will hit with my groups. My problem is, when I shoot those groups at 60, I see space. If I see space, I constantly want to remove it.[



#3
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Vernon Hills IL USA
Posts: 382

I paper tune to get close. I go for a slight high left tear up close that stabilizes by 5 yards and holds at 10 and 15 yards. Then I refine centershot by using a variation of the walkback method by sighting in at 20 then shooting at 40 and adjusting centershot. Then back to sighting in at 20 shootng at 40 and adjusting centershot. Once centershot is set by this method I'm almost always spot on.
#4
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Warren PA USA
Posts: 1,512

Buckfevr, that's basically what I do, but with broadheads vs. field points. I've always gotten my BH's to fly with my FP's using that method.
Nub, I just tried your method(Short distance tuning) and it seems to work well. It's quicker and easier than paper tuning and I can eventually finish up with my BH vs. FP tunign method.
I know that there's more than two guys here that tune their equipment!!
....thanks guys!
Nub, I just tried your method(Short distance tuning) and it seems to work well. It's quicker and easier than paper tuning and I can eventually finish up with my BH vs. FP tunign method.
I know that there's more than two guys here that tune their equipment!!

