any help for all my problems?
 

while shooting my bow here recently, i have ran into a problem that i can not figure out. once i pull my bow back and look through my peep, i am already looking under the target. I then have to try and pull my bow back up onto the target. i also can not seem to get any higher than the lower row of dots on the bag when i try and pull my bow back up. I have tried many things such as starting high on the bag and letting the bow slowly come down to my desired spot i am shooting at, but i seem to drift under the dot once again, or release before i get to the dot. i am a right handed shooter and i have tried pushing more with my left arm and pulling more with my right but i still end up low on the bag. i know if i keep practicing it will help, but so far, nothing that i have tried seemed to work. does anyone have any suggestions?

RE: any help for all my problems?
 

One thing the no-peep has taught me is to listen to my body and set the no-peep to what it wants. Once I'm at full draw with my eyes closed, I let the bow settle into the spot that is tension free and totally comfortable. This is what I set my no-peep to.

I want to release every arrow from this position. If the target doesn't happen to line up to it, my choices are:

1- Raise or lower my bow arm to adjust the sight pin. This sounds like what you may be doing in your description above. Problem is, it takes you out of the position your body wants to be and knows it should be in. So, you consciously try to aim and hold the pin on target by keeping your bow arm elevated/lowered, while you're subconscious trys to put you back into the position it wants to be in. Havoc and inconsistency ensue.

2- Bend up or down from the waist. This keeps your upper body shooting platform where it wants to be, and allows you to lock in your most consistent form. Just like you need to bend from the waist when shooting from a treestand to ensure accurate sighting, you must do so from level ground as well to targets that vary up or down from our natural full draw position.

RE: any help for all my problems?
 

sounds like to me that your power harness has stretched and has thrown everything out of whack.

RE: any help for all my problems?
 

I hate to say it, but it sounds like the beginning of target panic to me.

RE: any help for all my problems?
 

Have you checked the tiller. It soulds like you have more pressure on the bottom limb that the top limb. Hold your bow straight out like you are going to shoot it and start drawing the bow. Does is start pointing up or down, down I bet. The tiller should be set to even but if it is and you are still having this problem you can back out on the bottom limb bolt ½ turn which should be enough and then tighten the bottom limb bolt 1/8 at a time until everything feel right as far as aiming goes. You will have to reset your nock and tune after this.

RE: any help for all my problems?
 

Tiller adjustment may be needed.Do a search on tiller and look for ARTHUR P's explanation as it's the best i've seen posted on this subject.

RE: any help for all my problems?
 

The bow is fine - it is all in your head - you have target panic - you have it bad[:@][:@]

You can change stuf here and there - and think you solved it but it WILL come back unless you learn the mental aspect of the game and the infliction.

Do a search - buy a book - prepare to take many steps back - before you go forward - and good luck:)

RE: any help for all my problems?
 

Sounds to me like it is the classic symptoms of target panic.

Don't fret, it isn't terminal. But you will have to learn to deal with it.

RE: any help for all my problems?
 

I agree it does sound like target panic and there are countless hours of reading on the net on the subject and the one thing you will keep seing come up is a backtension release.Do it before it is too late.I know you may not plan on using a release like that for hunting but it is a crucial tool for a hunter and archer to LEARN proper release form.



Another thing that can cause your problems is having a draw length that is too long.Get it checked and fixed (if it is the problem) before it cause serious form issues along with bringing on the dreaded TP.


GOOD LUCK ;)

RE: any help for all my problems?
 

thanks everyone for your ideas. i have a tru-ball ultra 3 and i tried using it to see if i could hold on the target. it wasn't as bad and was a little easier to get where i wanted. i haven't tried messing with the draw length or tiller yet but its in future plans, and i guess if there is nothing wrong there, i'll be spending most of my days in the backyard shooting

RE: any help for all my problems?
 

I agree that "Tiller Tuning" your bow will make it aim much, much better, and just might take care of all your troubles. Here's the process:
"Tiller Tuning Tiller Tuning Your Compound Bow

Tiller tuning your bow is the process by which you get your wheels to turn at
optimum performance. You do this by shooting groups of arrows at several targets
until your arrows shoot the best group.

Step #1) Measure tuning
Using an arrow, place the point of the arrow on the inside of the bow at a point
where the riser and limb meet for the top limb. Holding the arrow, use your
thumb to measure the distance to the string. Holding that position on the arrow
with your thumb, measure the bottom limb/riser intersection to the string. If
the string touches your thumb in exactly the same spot, your wheels are in-time
with each other; hint, use the tip of your thumb. If your thumb does not touch
the string in exactly the same spot, then turn the limb bolt in or out as
needed. Some people choose to stop here; they assume that the bow is tuned and
it will shoot tight groups. If you want tighter groups, continue on to step #2
.
Step #2) Draw your crosshairs
On the bolt that holds your limbs to the riser, draw a cross over the bolt and
onto the limb. Use a straight edge or ruler; it is important that these lines
measure out a perfect cross. This cross can be thought of as a cross hair or a
guide. Each time you begin to shoot at a target, you will turn the limb either
in or out based on the position of the cross hair. In your mind (or on your bow,
which ever you prefer) label the end points of the cross hairs 1/4, 1/2, 3/4,
and 1. These numbers represent turns on the limb; example, 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn,
etc.

Step #3) Select a distance that you are confident with shooting tight groups
Note: On the target displayed to the left you see nine targets; four on top,
one in the middle, and four on the bottom. The four on top are for your top
limb, the four on the bottom are for your bottom limb, and the one in the middle
is for recentering. Start with center target.
Note: Use either 3 or 4 arrows - any more and you will break knocks, feathers,
and possibly robin hood an arrow.
Shoot a group at the center target. Retrieve your arrows and note the group. If
its dead center, that's great! However, we're not looking for accuracy, we're
looking for tight groups.
Note: Take breaks from shooting often, I recommend after each group shot. If
your arms are tired from shooting you'll waste your time.

Step #4) On your top limb, turn the limb bolt in (not out) to the 1/4 position.
Shoot a group. Retrieve your arrows and note the group.

Step #5) On your top limb, turn the limb bolt in (not out) to the 1/2 position.
Shoot a group. Retrieve your arrows and note the group.

Step #6) Continue this process for positions 3/4 and 1.

Step #7) Return the top limb to its original position.
Shoot a group at the center target and note the position. It should be at the
same place it was.

Step #8) Repeat the top limb process (steps #4 thru 7) for the bottom limb on
the four bottom targets.
Don't forget to note each group shot and take breaks often.

Step #9) Compare your Targets
After you have returned the bottom limb to its original position and shot the
center target a third time (it should have shot in the same position as the
first two - if it didn't, you messed up somewhere), compare your targets. Select
the one that you shot your tightest grouping. Now, set either your top limb or
your bottom limb according to that grouping position.
Congrats, your wheels are in tune with each other. Now, sight your bow in.
Remember, timing and tuning are two different beasts. A bow can be timed and not
tuned.
You can reach the author via email at [email protected]"
Hope this helps you aim better. Be safe.
Shoot Straight
Derbytown :D

RE: any help for all my problems?
 

rangeball, i don't have target panic, but have been raising my bow arm the whole time i've been shooting, didn't know any better, i took your advice - drawing to my most natural and comfortable position - and then bending my waist until the target was in my sights - WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. what a difference. can't say thanks enough for that tip.

RE: any help for all my problems?
 

Note this method does not work for one-cam bows. For these you need to tie a piece of fishing line or similar to both axles and measure to this string.