broadheads and arrow trouble
 

I was using field points to site in my bow and practice and it is dead on. I tried test shooting a few mechanical jackhammer sst and my arrows were off 6 left and 8 high. I alined the blades and fletching and had the same result. When I put the field points back on I was back in the bull. Is this problem with the arrow shaft size, the broad head or what?

RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
 

First, let's start simple. The broadhead and field tips are the same weight, correct? A heavier/lighter head doesn't just affect flight vertically, but horizontally as well due to different effective spines. I ask, because a difference of 25G in the head gives me similar results as yours.

Are the broadheads grouping consistently? If so, it points to a tuning problem. I'd say try paper tuning with field tips since it works great for me, but there are different opinions on the board regarding the value of a paper tune.

Also, what type of fletching are you using and how much helical do you have?

Fritz

RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
 

Got that right, but I still see value in it. To me an arrow coming off the bow straight is extemely important. There will be lees tendoncy for the arrow to have to correct down range. But I will only paper tune up to ten feet. After that the arrow (I'm talking with fletchings) will start to correct.

Only other thing I can add is to make sure you are shooting with the exact same form as the field tips. There is sometimes a mental factor involved when shooting a different setup.

RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
 

Probably the most difficult problem to rectify is proper nock/shaft/insert/point alignment. A simple spin of the arrow on a spin tester can help you determine whether or not everything is relatively in line. If not then you will need to check each component...one arrow at a time to see where the problem lies.

RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
 

Well heres what I know. The tips are the same grain. The arrows are brand new xx75 w/ 5" vanes. Last year my bow shot perfect but I wanted more poundage so I cranked it up from 56 to 62. I am afraid that it may have made me need stiffer arrows.

RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
 

It may not necessitate a stiffer arrow if you're still in the recommended spine range. Any tweaking of the poundage, tiller, or just about anything will affect arrow flight. Try a good paper tune and move your center shot or nock height accordingly.......or, you could try a slightly lighter tip (within 25 grains) and see if that puts you on spot.

My first procedure would be a paper tune though. I've had luck tuning two different spines using the same tip weight by changing nock position and centershot alone. Both setups put fixed blade broadheads and field tips on the same spot out to 60 yards (farthest I can shoot out back). I know it's not the most popular method, but it was the most quantitative way I found to adjust my bow.

BTW..........are the broadheads grouping as good as your field tips now? I assume they are and that the point of impact is just "6 right and 8 high".

RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
 

Thanks for the help. Here is my delima though. I tried paper tuning with field points at 10 feet and I kept having a 1 inch tear to the left (shooting left handed). My bow was never in paper tune with field points. I cannot seem to get it into perfect tune so I am doubtful that I can tune it with broad heads. Does a tear to the left indicate that the arrow will go left?

RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
 

indicates a week arrow , try lowering the poundage and see what happens , hopefully your arrows "with broadheads" will track to the right and hit close to you feild tips .

RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
 

I would say that here is where you problem is. 1 inch tear is way too much. If you have never paper tuned before, you may want to get help at a dealer. If not go to easton arrow site and download the tuning manuel. It will get you where you need to be. Also, when you are paper tuning, make absolutely sure that you are not torquing the bow at all, and check for any clearence problems first.

RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
 

Start out close to the target....as in 4 feet or less. What may be happening is that the oscillation of the arrow has completed one half of a cycle and your adjustments play into making it more extreme. If this still results in a left tear, (assuming you're right handed) then it could be that your draw length is too long resulting in a consistent pull. It could also be fletching contact.

Once you've achieved a bullet from less than 4 feet, step back to 6 feet and repeat, but make finer adjustments. Finally, tune from 10 feet, BUT make sure your adjustments are very, very minor. If you make it to this point, it becomes very easy for your decisions to be corrupted by other variables. In scientific terms, you lose your experiment's control.

Also, shoot 3 or 4 arrows before making an adjustment. It's very easy start going the wrong direction with your adjustments based on a torqued shot. You'll know in your head when you've had a good release - go with your instincts and count only those shots towards your adjustment decision.

The process can be touchy, and it does require patience, but the ability to do it in my basement makes the environment consistent and comfortable - a must when you start making hairline adjustments. It'll pay off when you don't have to sight in for broadheads!

Fritz

RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
 

First thing is to make sure there is no fletching contact.Either by shooting a bare shaft(I actually like paper tuning with a bare shaft)or you can also use lipstick on your prongs to see if there is contact.



Next thing is to eliminate torque.Try different hand positions to see what the tear does.Regardless of the tear,you still need to use the grip that works best for you and your groups.You will most likely find that a grip that eliminates most of the torque will have better results with your groups.



Thirdly,a left tear for a left handed shooter indicates a STIFF shaft for a release and compound shooter.This is not set in stone but is what is suggested by Easton.If it is just a left tear and isn't high it is most likely torque or centershot.If it is high,you may have a contact problem.



It could also just be that your center shot is way off and needs to be adjusted with the rest.If you have to move centershot way out or in to get good paper tear.You need to find out why and fix the problem.A bow with the centershot set properly will shoot better,regardless of paper.This means you need to match your spine and centershot so that you get a good tear in paper if you want your field tips and broadheads to impact the same.


Some bows just don't tune well and this may be because of some type of problem,either with the design or some type of failure.Things like cam lean and grip design play a major role in this headache.



Whatever you do,don't just move the rest untill you get good paper tear.You may be patching the problem and your shooting will suffer.Find out why you have to move the rest.

RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
 

Bigbuck, it sounds like you have a arrow rest set-up problem to me. i can help you but i need to know shaft size, lenght tip weight, LBSand draw lenght.

RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
 

I am shooting 62 lbs 27.5" arrows xx75 2213 with 100gr field points.
Last night I tried to center the rest. It was way off. When the rest is centered the vanes rub on the bow. When I move the rest out my paper tune goes to heck. Right now I have it set as close as can.

RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
 

bigbuck270, when you start to tune a bow, you should start with it at center shot. If you have vane clearance problems, then you have to correct that first.

RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
 

BigBuck, Bulldog1 here, I need to know what bow, fingers or release, based on what you told me, it's sounds like your arrows are too weak, a 2314 or 2312 will do the trick. Also you said you got fletching rub when you took your bow to center, unless your bow is older, that should'nt be happening. The thing that's bothering me is your arrows should'nt be that far off between field and mechanical heads let me know. :D Bulldog1

RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
 

arrow spine is too weak for 62 lbs

RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
 

Thanks for all the help. I ended up having two problems. 1. The fletching was hitting the riser. 2. The arrow spine was too weak for that poundage. I adjusted the rest and picked up some 2314s and it papertunes great. I just hope hitting a deer will be as easy as hitting paper at 10'.

RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
 

Just a endnote.

Never assume that different heads will weigh the same and fly the same just because each states that they are the same weight. It is not uncommon to find that the weight of broadheads to be less or more than what the manufacturer states.

Configuration (design) of heads comes into play. The physics of flight on a fieldpoint is not the same as it is on most broadheads, regardless both weigh the same. That is why I do not try to get fieldpoints and broadheads to fly and group the same.

RE: broadheads and arrow trouble
 

I think TFOX is trying to get me in trouble. :D;)Sure, just let that dangle out in front of me. It's so hard to let the opportunity go by without saying something that'll get me thrown in the brig. [:@]

Lipstick on my prong with a bare shaft, eh?
Sounds good, maybe I should try that.
Gee, I hope there isn't a clearence problem.

Sorry, I tried to hold back, but it's just not me.