How "high" should it be ??
 

When setting up my new LX with a WB rest, I could'nt remember how high up the arrow should be sitting on the rest.Just over the hole in the riser for the rest,,or right through the middle of it.Does it matter ???.

RE: How "high" should it be ??
 

In most cases the arrow should pass squarely over the rest mounting hole in the riser. In some cases it is necessary to mount it higher than that in order to get fletching clearance off the arrow shelf. Considering how the WB is designed I would be placing the arrow squarely across the rest mounting hole and then shoot with the cock vane pointed upwards.

RE: How "high" should it be ??
 

I would also suggest lining the arrow up, so it goes through the center of the hole. Any vertical adjustments I make to arrow position, are done by moving the string nocking point up or down. I use tied on string-nocks, to make this easy.

RE: How "high" should it be ??
 

does this also apply with a prong style rest????

RE: How "high" should it be ??
 

Yes.

RE: How "high" should it be ??
 

I agree with the others........my LX was set dead center of the berger button hole with a WB ! My Outback is shooting better with it slightly on the low side.......or nock high ! And I also shoot cock vane up !

RE: How "high" should it be ??
 

Droptines,
The arrow should center over the berger button hole. The whisker biscuit should be parallel to the bowstring not tipped forward or backward. The arrow should fit loosely inside the biscuit not tight. You should set the bow at an even tiller and nock the arrow at 90degrees to the bowstring. The windage for the rest is often about 1/8" to the left of the centerline of the bow on most right-handed bows. You should grouptune to establish the optimum windage setting for the bow using the correct spine arrows for the bow. You can leave the nocking point at the 90degree position on the bowstring and adjust the tiller of the bow if neccessary to achieve a level arrow in the target. A nock high arrow would require that you tighten the lower limb bolt to correct the tiller and shoot a level arrow. A nock low arrow would require that you tighten the upper limb bolt to correct the tiller and shoot a level arrow. If the bow and rest are tuned in this fashion the arrow will go straight through the center of the biscuit very quickly and quietly with no wear and tear on the fletching and your broadheads and fieldpoints will probably hit the same hole. Good luck hunting!

RE: How "high" should it be ??
 

Thanks for the reply guys.At this point I'm still breaking in the string and cables,so I'm not going to make any final adjustments just yet.
Should I bare shaft test with the WB ???.It seems like the WB would/will correct any slight arrow flight problem,,thus,not showing whats going on with the arrow after the release.Am I right ??????.

RE: How "high" should it be ??
 

Its always a good idea to bareshaft tune your bow with the correct spine arrow. It is easier to see if thebow is shooting straight when there are no fletchings on the arrow, its sort of a reverse engineering, if the arrow flys well without fletching it will fly even better with it. Good luck hunting!

RE: How "high" should it be ??
 

Arrowman, very informative response, but the above is something I've always wondered about.

How does one accomplish this if they are shooting into anything other than a new(er) rigid perfectly square to level target? Does this assume that the person is launching the arrow parallel to the ground, and aiming at the above target placed high enough to intercept the arrow at it's launch level? I shoot into an old bag target. Even when it was new, it never held an arrow in the exact position it entered in. I'd be in tuning hell if I tried to follow your good advice, but soley due to the fault of my crappy target. Hopefully :)

If someone does what your recommending at a target placed on the ground for instance, and tunes for a level to the ground arrow, couldn't this actually show a nock low condition? Don't know, just rambling.


On the "level with the arrow's launch target height", it would seem this would be ideal, otherwise we are possibly dropping our bow arm a bit to aim at a target lower than level. I wonder how much improvement there would be if we instead aimed/tuned level, then to shoot lower targets, bend slightly at the waist, like we should be. Perhaps we would pick up some consistency?

Oh, and what are your thoughts/experiences on the '04 brown/black biscuits?

RE: How "high" should it be ??
 

Rangeball,
It will be easier to determine left and rightnocks or up or down nocks if you are shooting at a rigid target like styrofoam. What you see from your shooting position will be determined by your own eye and therefore will be subjective. I try to give advice that others can duplicate. I don't measure tiller with a ruler. I do count turns on the limb bolt top and bottom and call it even enough to start tuning. There is always room for improvement unless every shot results in a "Robinhooded" shaft! I do post more detailed bowtuning information than most people. I change my own strings and cables and the relationship between tiller and nocking point adjustments does exist. I find that life is easier when I can adjust things with a wrench then when I use pliers. The Easton tuning guide shows one way, I use another, but both will work. I believe in using an experimental method that can be replicated. It has worked on my last dozen bows. If someone else wants to use an obsenely high nocking position they will probably have to adjust their tiller differently in order to get the bow to shoot straight. My experience with the whisker biscuit has been that even tillered bows will shoot real well with the arrow nocked at 90degrees. My own hunting arrows are Beman 340s, 31"long with 125 Magnus heads and they are fletched with three straight 3" feathers. The old style biscuit was not wearing the fletching. The new B-2 biscuits are softer than the old ones. The brown fibers are .007" in diameter and the black fibers are .010" in diameter. Even though there are probably more bristles in the new biscuit it shoots faster than the older biscuit. I'm not privy to what the new bristles are made of but I think they are of a different blend of material then the old ones. Hope this helped someone. Good luck hunting!

RE: How "high" should it be ??
 

What I do, is very similar to Arroman, with a little difference. I set my string nocks, so the arrow is at 90 degrees to the string. I then adjust tiller, (to get a good vertical paper tear), by adjusting my limb bolts. Once in the field, group tuning, I usually move my string nocks a turn or two to tweak my groups. I could just as easily tweak my vertical adjustment by further tightening or loosening a limb bolt, an 1/8 turn at a time.

I have read where you can fine super tune a single cam for better nock travel by group tuning while making small adjustment to tiller. I haven't tried it, but may the next time I tune a single cam.

RE: How "high" should it be ??
 

"Important things to Remember about tiller. 1. It general it doesn't matter on the performance of the bow. 2. Once set, the only time it matters is when it changes. 3. THE TILLER IN THE TOP LIMB SHOULD ALWAYS BE SET EQUAL TO OR MORE THEN THE BOTTOM LIMB." Larry Wise

"Tiller should never be less on the top, or more then 1/8 inch short on the bottom" Randy Collins

RE: How "high" should it be ??
 

An even tillered bow shooting the correct spine arrows needs very little adjusting to shoot well. Nocking the arrow at 90degrees helps to eliminate nockpinch when shooting with fingers and also helps to eliminate torque on the arrow when using a release. this is especially helpful when shooting a shorter axle to axle length bow. Good luck hunting!

RE: How "high" should it be ??
 

Couldn't be farther from the truth. A full containment rest such as the WB will actually amplify any slight arrow flight problems.

RE: How "high" should it be ??
 

I think having an arrow inside a containment rest will definately show any deiciencies in shooting form because the arrow is still on the bow for the extra amount of arrow travel till it leaves the rest. The straightening effect of the whisker biscuit effects all of the fletchings simultainiously which would have a corrective effect or possible "false tune" but an untuned bow and rest are simply an untuned bow and rest regardless of the make of the bow or the make of the rest. Any bow will shoot best with the correct spine arrows. The best position for a rest can be different than the centerline of the bow. Grips are not always centered on the bow and cableguards will not always have the same amount of tension on them from one bow to the next. Balancing drawlength, braceheight, axle to axle length and hoping the cams are in correct time and the string and cable are adjusted correctly it seems tiller may be the one thing that we can get real close to perfect before dialing in some of the other variables.Good luck hunting!