wvdeerhunter22

My broadheads are grouping low and right of my feild points. I know i could move the sights, but it is significantly left and id rather have a good tune anyway. Which ways do i need to move the rest?

Thanks

hoyt_boy

If your field points are grouping well and and hitting dead on, you'd be better off to move the sight rather than the rest. If you move your rest you are throwing out the paper tune and your arrows won't group at all.

Actually, what kind of broadhead are you using? If it's way off you might also think about switching heads. I'm using NAP RazorBaks and Wasp JakHammer's and mine group right with my match points.

muzzyman88

I disagree, if you are getting very tight, consistant groups with field points and you have already group tuned, I would begin makins small movements to the rest to the left to get the broadheads in the same group. After you get them lined up, move you nocking point down a hair at a time until you hit the same group. Then, move your sights to place the entire group in the bullseye where you are aiming.

Just my two cents.

GVDocHoliday

What muzzyman88 said. Paper tune means squat. You can have a well out of tune bow and still get good groups with field points, but I've always believed that the bow isn't perfectly tuned until your broadheads and field points have the same point of impact.

hoyt_boy

I understand what you guys are saying, but if your bow isn't paper tuned wouldn't that problem be exaggerated with a broadhead? I don't know that moving the rest so that it lines up with the sight cures the problem though. I don't think we should discount the paper tune too much.

muzzyman88, if you move the rest - isn't that going to offset your field points as well?

Just wondering, I like to learn all I can.

muzzyman88

Hoytboy, if you move your rest to get your broadheads and fieldpoints in the same line you will get a little movement in your field point groups usually. But not near as much movement as you get with the broadhead group. Ultimately, they will come together with a little time and patience. I papertune, but I don't hold a lot of weight on that. I usually papertune to get me pointed in the right direction. Then I group tune till my hair falls out. Once thats all done, I shoot my broadheads and adjust accordingly.

I am by no means an expert, but this works like a charm for me. My bows usually end up quieter and more forgiving for me using this method.

hoyt_boy

muzzyman88,

Thanks for clearing that up, it makes more sense that having been said and me pondering about it for while and I can see how it eventually would come together. I like to piddle with setups, to see what works and what doesn't - that's half the fun to me. I'll try to put a little more empasis on grouping and a little less on papertunes the next time I need to (or feel like it) tune and see how it goes. Thanks for the info!!

BGfisher

Muzzy nailed it down pretty good. Noone mentioned that if you'e hitting low you most likely need to lower your nocking point, too. Lowering the nock should be done before you start left/ right with the rest.

Bulzeye

Agreed BG.
Vertical adjustment first, then horizontal.

Paper tuning is NOT fine tuning. It's just a good start.

WV:
Here is a link where you can download Easton's tuning guide...
Easton Archery Downloads

The tuning process includes several steps for optimum target or hunting accuracy and consistency including...
Preliminary bow setup
Paper tuning
Bare shaft
group tuning
broadhead tuning

Each is pretty well explained in the tuning guide, as are techniques for making and maintaining your arrows.

Good luck WV.

jmac_or

Martin also has a good deal of info on tuning, and then supertuning for best flight. Most things I have read about tuning say paper tuning is merely the starting point. Biggest issue is it only give a picture of flight for that instant in time, takes much more to understand that arrow flight from bow to target. Paper tune is almost always listed as a good starting point though.

JMAC