ewolf

People, when you paper tune you should not move the arrow rest in and out. PERIOD. Vertical adjustments should be made with either nock or arrow rest. If you move the arrow rest in and out you will get groups moving left and/or right on the target at different yardages. To place the arrow rest in and out, nock an arrow. Step back from the bow and look down the arrow(2ft.). The string should be in the middle of the bow handle, when the arrow is straight to the string. If the point of the arrow sticks out to the left of the string, move the arrow rest in, and the opposite. Now what makes my arrow tear to the left or the right in the paper? ITS SPINE. For release shooters if your nock is tearing to the left, the arrow is strong. If the nock tears to the right the arrow is weak. This is opposite for fingers shooters. To weaken the spine, turn up the draw wieght, add arrow point wieght, Lengthen the arrows. To stiffin the spine, turn down the draw wieght, decrease point wieght, or shorten the arrows used. I'm tired of hearing about people moving the arrow rest in and out during paper tuning. I know a lot of people are going to call me out on this and say I'm wrong, but i don't care. I'm right and you are wrong. Open up your mind to new ideas and you might just get out of the 300's. Maybe

8PT

OK

Rack-attack

ewolf.

This is how you follow up on you "people who do not tune thread".........LOL......[]

I don't even know where to start.....If your post wasn't so "in your face" I probably would of just passed bye.......But I am gonna sit in for a while.

Ever hear of the word "cable rod"? - do you know how it effects center tune at full draw?? Do you know the difference betwen stagnent and dynamic??. Can you or myself hold a bow like a Hooter shooter??

You have discribed the worst way to "center tune" a bow I have ever heard.............And I am the guy with the rubberbands holding my blades together.....



I know this is me being a jerk but....................Please describe how you lenghten an arrow.......

Too tired to learn I guess.



After this post I must say I do feel better about shooting mechanicals though[&:]

mammasboy

Rack, not to get off subject, but what broadheads do you shoot?Just curious.

TFOX

ewolf

You actually do have SOME understanding of centershot and it's importance but have a terrible way of making your point.


Centershot is usually not in the center of the grip but off to the side just a hair.This is one reason why a center shot gauge can be a very usefull tool but minor adjustments need to be made to the rest in a group tuning method.This will put the rest in the proper place for individuall shooters.Those of us that have done this enough can use paper to read the paper while moving the rest in or out to get real close before we start our group tuning.



YES,spine is a huge culprit in paper tears but SO IS TORQUE and you made no mention of it.I do agree that we do not need to tune an arrow to shoot bullet holes when we are adjusting the arrowrest way in or out to get it.Centershot is much more important and forgiving than bulletholes.We do need to learn if our tears are from torque or spine and make the appropriate changes.


Oh yea,this is coming from someone that that uses those darn mechanicals too.

ewolf

Apple Archery bow holder to hold the bow. To lengthen arrows you would have to buy new ones. Arrow stretchers just don't work on carbons well. I have never had to move my arrow rest in or out(New tuning method). How do you adjust the spine of your arrows to the bow? The chart? Thats real precise, that is how you select arrows that are close. Too tired to learn? Have you ever tried it my way? You just know its wrong. I have tried it your way and been dead on at 20 yards and 60 yards and 3 inches to the left at 40 Its because you move the arrow rest(In my case out). I don't care if you change your method. Obviously you are better then everyone else and know it all, but lots of new shooters are being mislead. That is how i get the centershot close. That E-Z shot true center really works great Yeah right. Its complicated on how to properly set centershot Try this method and you will see you are wrong. Try it then tell me im wrong.

Rack-attack

All I know is they are cool looking - come with rubberbands - require no tuning - and occasionly kill stuff

ewolf

TFOX you are right it can come from torque to. After paper tune i bare shaft tune to 40 yards then i shot groups at 80 and adjust the rest in and out for the best groups, but this is extremely minor.

Rack-attack

Are you talking to me.........or yourself

Centertune is VERY IMPORTANT. But many variables go into it. Not just eyeball it into the center of the riser.

I spine check with bare shafts, and group tuning. I shoot goldtips - I have to choices week or stiff. I shoot stiff. Spine has rarely been an issue for me - and when it is I can see it in my long range broadhead groups faster than you can set up your paper tuner. Oh - I also do not paper tune because IMO it doesn't tell you anything I cant find out with group, walk back, vertical and Horiz line tuning. Infact a bullet hole is often miles away from a super tune.

I don't need to run into a brick wall to know I will smash my face.

Washington Hunter

Oh Dear Lord, so many contradictions, so little time...

First you say: So, we should do it your way because it's wrong? Hmmm.... No?

Then you say: The style in which you post makes you sound very much like a jerk. You're new here, I'll fill you in. People don't like it when you act like you know everything, and yes, this is exactely how your posts make you sound. It makes you sound as if you think you're better than us, that you know more than us, and that you're as uptight as the democratic party at a gun show.

Open your mind. People have different methods of doing things. Just because YOU think that YOUR way works better than anyone elses doesn't mean that you need to act like your way is the ONLY way.