I agree with everyone. I'm that kind of guy. I do not set my centershot to the center of the bow, however, because that's not where the "dynamic" center is. The "dynamic" center is offset to the side just a tad because the string is not in the center of the bow. Therefore if you set your rest to the physical center of the bow you are shooting the arrow sideways right off the bat.

Rack, I like bareshafting, too. Much better than paper any day. Takes longer, is more precise, and gives me more shooting time.

ewolf, in case you never tried it the arrow stretcher doesn't work very well on aluminum arrows either.

i thought if you wanted a stiffer spine you would shorten the arrow, am I wrong? Just curious.

(KNIGHTS OF THE ROUND TABLE)[8D]

Fact: some of the best professional target shooters don't worry about a bullet hole. Read some about Frank Pearson, he generally had a very small tear left. Reason: because of his form, he found that the very small tear left made hi dead on with his own consistant shooting form.

Being dead on centershot does not work for every archer/bow combination......it does for me using a release, but when I shot fingers for me it was best to be off center 1/16.

ewolf,

That statement there will discredit you from many a person's viewpoint. Second, you contradict yourself with that statement..."Open your mind" and yet "I am right and you are wrong"......

As for your procedure....I agree that it is good that you take the time to tune your bow but as several others have mentioned the center of the grip is not necessarily the perfect line for the powerstroke of the string. For example, most conventional single cam bows have their strings at an angle in the horizontal plane. Because of this, more often than not, the arrow ends up pointing to the left of center when the centershot is set correctly.

Also, getting left and right tears after centershot is set does not necessarily just indicate a spine issue. It may also be the result of other issues, some previously mentioned, such as fletching contact, torque, etc....

Some things to think about.

ewolf

As a newbie to the world of compound bows, I don't post very often.

However, I hope that you will keep posting with your less than nice-nice style. Whatever your style, I always learn something from your posts and the replies.

I do wonder if the date that you started this tread has some relevance?

Allen

Just to throw in a little fat to chew on..........What do you all think about Bernie Pellerite's comments about tuning in his book IPA? Bernie discusses (very persuasively) all the different types of tuning. Bernie addresses all of these issues as ways to get the best groups for target archery. However, he also says that when tuning for broadheads, paper tuning is essential.

I believe his rational is that sometimes you get better groups when there is a built in paradox to the arrow. However, the best groups and the best arrow flight are not always synonymous. Therefore, group tuning may provide slightly better grouping for your broadhead tipped arrow, but not necessarily the best arrow flight. Therefore, the arrow will not deliver it's energy as efficiently as it would have it were tuned to shoot perfect holes.

I have to admit that I have always tended to agree with this thinking. JMO

Best groups and best arrow flight are not always synonymous. The obverse is also true. Best arrow flight and best accuracy are not always synonymous. I'd be very happy to sacrifice a tiny bit of energy transfer to know that the arrow is going to hit where I aim it, rather than a few inches off. Accuracy first, arrow flight second.

Naturally the goal is to have both, perfect accuracy and perfect arrow flight. Problem is, it takes a perfect archer behind the string to achieve either.

ewolf- I'm going to give you a little advise here.... Don't ever throw anything "out of your arsenal" to get a bow "tuned". I know and use most all the tuning methods there are in this world, and I always use paper tuning to get started. I know some of the major "teacher-coaches" don't like to use it for FITA and distance shooting, but it is one of the best for the average hunter-archer. Remember-nothing in archery is cast in stone. Now- go ahead and bash me for this statement, but there's a million shooters, and tech people , and professional shooters out there who will use this method. After many years in this business I have learned there is validity in all tuning methods.

Well thank you Arthurp, master of the obvious

I was looking more along the lines of moving your sight rather than you're arrow rest, if you are already shooting execptable groups but not grouping with your field tips etc. I don't think would recommend that anyone hunt with a bow that wouldn't shoot within a couple of inches of where you aimed. But I honestly have never had that trouble. Going back to some more of what Bernie discussed in his book, if you can make the bow do the same thing, it is going to it in the same hole regardless of tune (i.e. Hooter Shooter). So if your broadheads hit a couple of inches from where you aim, just move your sight. Bernie definetly has some intersting opinions!