drthunder

i got a trophyridge.have hiting right on at 15 yards but its off a good 5 inches at 25 yards,if your familar wiyh this sight you know you turn the whole head for your left an right. its off to the left at 25,but if i turn it enough to hit ill probably not even hit at 15.havent used this sight before this,maybe im not doing something right. give me some help guys i sure could use it.

jetblast

Are you canting the bow, gripping the riser badly, or is your arrowrest centershot adjusted properly?

drthunder

well bow was on55 .went up to 60 and this is when it started. i also shoot a whiscker biquit .could it be that its cause i didnt ajust it also? i know it seems dumb but i aint been shooting to long. i have every thing else down but this sight. thanks whisker is ajustable could this be my problem?

muzzyman88

First thing I would do is group tune that bow. Usually, when you're hitting to one side or the other at distances greater than your initial shoot in distance it mean that the rest needs to move one way or the other to get the groups in line. I don't even begin to make sight adjustments until I've group tuned out to about 45 yards or so. Then I'll make the proper left/right adjustment to keep me close. I'll then back out to 60 yards or so and group tune there. Only then will I make final adjustments on the sight itself.

Try it, I bet you'll find that is your problem.

drthunder

thanks muzzy ill give it ashot and let you know.

BGfisher

Makes me wonder about arrow spine. If you didn't have the problem at 55lbs but you do at 60lbs then your arrows may be spined too light. As mentioned, group tuning will help but not if you have the wrong arrow spine. Also, a little more info about your setup would help us pin down possible solutions.

muzzyman88

Good point BGfisher. I didn't realize that when I originally read the post.

mrfritz44

I agree with BGFisher that it may be a spine problem. Also, a diagonal pin alignment also indicates that your centershot is off from what it should be. Set up a paper tuner and let a few rip through that at 4 or 5 feet. If your tear isn't close to a "bullet hole", this will be where you want to start.

Before I had an understanding of paper tuning and centershot I shot pins that were on a diagonal. This was, of course, with a sight that allowed individual adjustment. On a well tuned bow, the pins should be a vertical straight line.

Arthur P

Do the 'group tuning' muzzyman and bgfisher suggest (I call that method 'walkback' tuning and it's my bread and butter for fine tuning centershot). It's a great fine tuning method, the next step beyond paper tuning. In fact, I just eyeball my centershot, set my nock at a hair over square and go straight to walkback tuning. I quit messing with all that papertuning stuff some years ago. A waste of time and effort - maximum frustration for mediocre results.

The bit about your problem starting only after bumping your draw weight up to 60 pounds? I agree with the others. That sets red flags to waving, flares ablazing and sirens going off about arrow spine. Try dropping back to 55 and see if the problem clears up. If it does, it's a pretty fair bet you need to get the next size stiffer spine. If you're shooting carbon arrows and are close enough to the edge for a 5 pound bump to mess you up that bad, you need to go stiffer anyway.

Just for the record, how about listing your entire setup. Bow - brand and model, cam, draw length; Arrow - brand, size, length, tip weight. With that info, maybe we can make some specific recommendations to help you.

mrfritz44

I'm not sure I agree with you on that one Arthur. I've had my share of frustration with paper tuning, but once you get close to ideal rest and knock placement, the finest adjustment has a pronounced effect on the tear. After dialing in the bow in my basement recently, I was able to screw in an old Thunderhead and have it hit the same spot as field tips out to 50 yards (didn't try longer than that). Groups were also right on.

The one thing that paper tuning allowed me to do was shoot the bow with my concentration on a good release that was free from torque. I didn't have to worry about where my pins actually were on the target, nor hold on a target for any length of time. The human factor was better removed and how the bow was actually shooting could be quantitatively measured using the tear - not to mention it takes less time to paper tune and it can be done inside without the adverse effects of wind. The entire environment is more consistent.

I'm not saying he shouldn't group tune....ultimately that's the point of bow tuning. I do think that early in the assessment of his troubles a paper tune may be the ticket to help him put his finger on what needs to be done.

Fritz