Trophy Taker Problem
 

I have a Mathews Ultra 2 set at 65 lbs. 28.5 inch draw using a Carter hole thing
3 release with a string. I have had the Trophy Taker on and off my bow 8 times
and I can't figure out why I can't get good arrow flight with the rest. I followed
the directions and have set the timing of the rest as directed. I have moved the
center shot to many locations including 13/16 as Mathews suggests from the
riser. I have powder tested and see no contact problems. I get bullet holes
through paper with it but when I shoot outside, like this past fall, my arrows
sway side to side, back and forth. My groups with the rest are great but my
arrows don't fly straight. I have tried tried everything, from nocking point
up and down, to center shot left and right, my arrows I tried are Gold Tip
55/75 cut to 28 1/2 inches with 100 grain tips and 2314's with 100 grain tips.
Frustration then new idea's made me take it on and off the bow. Both arrows
do the same thing, sway left-right, left-right. I do not peek when shooting but
it is obvious as the arrow goes down range. I put a star hunter rest on the bow
and the arrows fly straight and group well. Since I spent the money on the
Trophy Taker (shaky hunter) I would really like to use it. Does anyone out
there have any idea's?

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

Maybe the rest is dropping too soon. Have you shot through paper at varying distances?

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

Are you talking about broadhead equiped arrows , fishtailing downrange , if so make sure you have enough stearing in the back of the arrow . I use 5 inch feathers on an offset when shooting fixed broadheads and my arrow flight is much improved over when I use to use 4 inch feathers , some even use heilical .If your feild tiped arrows do it allso , Id check for vane contact and that is not the problem , then time the rest to drop at the last posable moment before contact is posable .

[Deleted]
 

[Deleted by Admins]

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

Why dump a rest that is functioning as it should for one that does not just because you spent good money for it? Junk is junk!

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

Why call something " Junk" when that particular rest is considered the "industry standard" for it's type of design, and you rarely hear anything but praise for it?

The TT is built like a tank, and I've found it extremely easy to tune and work with. It's far from what I would call Junk.

And I have not had any issues w/ the cable causing fletching interference...how do you have it set-up? If it's set up at the slide, then I could see that being a problem because that's quite common w/ other similar styles like the NAP & Cavalier AE.

Hooked into the down cable there is no way it could cause fletching contact.

Also I find it interesting that a side pressure launcher was the only rest that gave good groups and good flight. Could be a torque induced problem from the release (rope) or your anchor, or vertical nock travel issues.

I doubt the real issue is with the rest, but that the drop-away design is not offering enough support to compensate for the real problem whatever it may be.

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

Now thats a nail with its head hit :D;)

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

The rest should reach its upright position only a couple of inches before you reach full draw. Make sure that you can still come forward 2-3 inches from the full draw position before the rest starts to move downwards. If the rubber is too tight, then the rest may not drop away in time and you can still get the arrows striking the rest.
I've taken this information from an article, maybe it worth checking this out.
Tuning will take some time, so relax, avoid frustration and enjoy what you're trying to achieve.
You can also check if there's any side to side movement on your cam, this is another area that can cause bad arrow flight. Seeing that your bow is a single cam-- you can eliminate cam timing problems.

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

I have checked both the cam and idler wheel for leaning problems and all is
o.k. there. I am using 100 gr. field points. I think Jeff hit the nail on the head.
I have wondered if, with the rope on my release, I am some how creating
torque when I anchor the release next to my cheek. Or he could be right, it
may be a nock travel issue. Sure is frustrating. Jeff or anyone else, can you
suggest a drop away that might work for me? Jeff what rest are you using now?
Guess it's time to sell the Trophy Taker.

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

Where did everyone get the idea that a drop away rest would help cure form errors????? There isn't anything majical about a drop away rest, if you have good form it will work, if your form isn't so good it won't work any better than anything else.. :(

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

You have mentioned that you set the timing. However did you check for the up and down. It sounds like you probably have your other rest set up correctly as it is easier to make adjustments. Even though the timing is set, it doesn't mean that the arrow is in the proper location. I am using the trophy taker rest and absolutly love it. If you can have a buddy watch as you draw to make sure that the arrow rest is in the proper location at full draw. And I agree with the other post that describes these as being built like a tank. If all the tricks won't work then scrap the rest. You will never shoot good with something that you dont have confidence in.

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

My opinion is that the form problem (or whatever the real problem is) should be found and corrected instead of "bandaiding" it by going with a rest that helps mask the problem.

Experiment w/ your anchor, or grip, or release aid a bit.

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

I have the trophy taker original and have had absolutely no problems with it.If it was a form problemor your release or even your knock travel I don't think you'd shoot terrible with the shakey and have no problem's with the other .My opinion is that your string on the bus cable must be wrong.Pull the string from your arrow rest straight back to your bus cable{the down side } then tie your string an 1"1/2 above your parelel point ,if your string is served below I'll bet that's the problem. I hope this help's . Just one more thing your string from the rest should go to the right {I'm taking it that you shoot right if you shoot left then do this in reverse}of your bus cable and then served as I said about a 1"1/2 above the rest hieght, Then serve down till your even with the rest .If your string is to the inside of the bus cable when you release, the slack in the string from your rest could be touching your arrow and causing your erratic arrow flight .Let me know how you make out. Also make sure you serve the string to the back of the down stroke cable.

[email protected]

nubo

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

Nubo, I always served it below that point. I will try that. You know the strange
thing about all this is I once had a Mathews Conquest-2 that I used the same
Trophy Taker on and I had none of these problems with it. Same arrows,
same release and all was o.k. with it. Go figure.

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

All the discussions that have transpired regarding "drop-away" rests begs of one central question:

What actual advantage does the "drop-away" rest provide?

Other than a person having the right of choice; for the purpose of bowhunting what is/are the facts about a "drop-away" that justifies an increased complexity of function, tuning, and an increased chance of malfunction or failure in comparison with standard mechanical rests that are chiefly static, with a (simple) tension, elevation, and windage adjustment?

Most likely, some will say that the "drop-away" rest provides them confidence. Confidence is good. However, feeling confident is mental and emotional; confidence is not tangible. Realistically, you cannot mentally or emotionally will something to happen or not happen.

Some bowhunters that use a "drop-away" will vehemently maintain that the rest is superior because it eliminates fletch contact, improves accuracy, and increases speed. Other rests with less complexity and greater durability do the same, and have for years.

Some bowhunters will exaggerate the actual conditions of bowhunting deer and what gear and type of gear is necessary to kill a deer. They will claim that with the advanced bowhunting gear that is available today, you can defy the law of physics, shoot a flat trajectory at supersonic speeds, kill deer at greater distances, and whatever else can be conjured up.

When all is said and done, the facts always prevail. Whether you hunt from the ground or from an elevated treestand, the average range that most deer are shot with a bow is 5 to 21 yards. This average distance has remained somewhat static for years, and probably always will remain the average. A 150-fps recurve with the arrow shot off a solid shelf can be deadly accurate and has brought down many deer in the stated average distances. Therefore, what advantage does a "drop-away" rest truly provide?

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

1 - Fletching clearnce with Aggresive Helecoil

2- Better arrow holding capabilities than standard two prong

3- And most importantly they take about 7 or 8 months to set up correctly. The off-season is long – what else is there to do:D

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

I have shot Trophy Taker for two years and was recommended by pro archer. My coach is a archery lengend and domanated indoor archer for many years. He shoots trophy taker. I have tuned and placed many on bows with very simple tuning. If your groups are tight whats the promblem. Standard rest isnt going to fix arrow flight.

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

Rack:

:D:D

okbwhtr:

??????

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

Take the grip off your bow and try shooting off the bare riser.

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

Dsheally! you can start serving straight out from the arrow rest and work up or start from the top it doesn't matter just as long as the string is above 1"1/2 approx at the point of serving. Make sure the serving is on the opposite side of the bus cable from your arrow not the INSIDE. Your string from your rest should not be tigh when it's not being drawn slack it should have slack.

nubo

Simple direction's this might make it a little easier

1.Pull the string directly straight to the outside of your down stroke cable.Do not activate the rest leave it down.

2.Pinch it , then with the loose end of the string lift it up 2" along the outside of the bus cable and pinch it .

3.Come down 1/2 inch and serve the remainder 1"1/2 to the arrow side of the bus cable down .

4.If there is any string left you can cut it off.

Remember string to the outside around the cable and serve it to the inside of the bus cable.

I hope this makes it a little easier to understand.

If this don't work then I'm not sure what to say.

nubo

P.S. the remaining string length may vary with your brace length you may not have 1"1/2 of string left if your brace is longer than mine, but it doesn't matter it doesn't have to be exactly an 1"1/2..... 1" or even 3/4 maybe fine as long as it's served tight .

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

Nubo, I have a Liberty ordered. Got a trophy taker I plan to put on. Your post was very interesting, but wouldn't it have to be attached below, not above. On the down cable, it would just take the slack out of the rope. Am I screwed up on this? On a different subject I wonder if my Spot Hogg real deal will adjust enough to the left. It was almost as far as it would go when I had it on the LX. I have a Hogg it. I think it might work. Might have to switch them. I guess this should have been on different posts. Thanks

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

Lefse.......The Spot-Hogg "Real Deal" on my Liberty is sitting with the pins right on centershot and I still have about 3/8" of left adjustment left. Unless you have some real whacky arrow tune you should have no problem at all with the "Real Deal".

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

Lefse! I go up for the simple reason is that on the down stroke it pulls the string on the down stroke past the rest. If the string is above you get a rolling effect. And I don't think you'll get the same from pulling from the bottom. It's the rolling motion that makes this set-up work the best.I'm not saying that it doesn't work from the bottom ,this is just the way I set mine up and it work's flawlessly.

nubo

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

I had some pretty funky arrow flight when I first up set my TT. A few things I found were, timing and nock pinch, I put a couple of tied on nocks inside my loop and haven't had any problems at all. By the way are you shooting cockfeather up? When I started shooting c/up it really made a big diff. It takes some time to get it timed right but IMO it's well worth it.

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

Nubo, I was checking this on the LX. The down cable only moves about 1 1/2 inch. So it would only pull it down to even with the rest. But it evidently works on the Liberty with cable guard. Thanks for the reply.

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

Lefse when I draw my bow it only moves about the 1"1/2as yours does but when it's even with the arrow rest that is when the flipper comes up.T rust me this does work.When I just read your first post I had to check it and you are correct .

nubo
P.S. I have my trophy taker on my Golden Eagle Splitfire.I'm not putting one on my new BT Pat D/C because I like to try all kind's of new equipment not because I don't like it ,because I do swear by the Trophy Taker they're a great drop away.

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

Nubo, I can see that that could work on your bow with a sliding cable guard. On my LX that has roller guard, cables don't move back, just down. Unless I am really missing something, it would just put slack in it to pull it down to even with the rest. Will see if it will work that way on the Liberty. Ordered the Liberty Dec 19th. Wonder how long it took these other guys to get theirs. I was told middle to last part of January. Lefse

RE: Trophy Taker Problem
 

Yes your absolutely right Lefse! I forgot about the roller gaurd on the LX .

nubo