Question for the Pros
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Kansas
Posts: 141
Question for the Pros
I bought a used Reflex Denali about a year ago and recently had a guy at the local bow shop a new string and cable on the bow. He made them but I don' t remember the material he used. Anyhow, the draw range on the bow is supposed to be 60-70 lbs and I was shooting 67 lbs, but now with the limb bolts cranked all the way down, I can only get 62 lbs out of it. The reason I took the bow in in the first place is that I noticed the ATA was 1/2 longer then specs and the brace height was shorter than it should have been. So I suspected string and cable stretch and the guy at the shop agreed. After I got home I measured the ATA and it was still long, so I put the bow in my press and twisted the string (not the cable) a few times and got it close to 34" but it was still about 3/16 longer than it should have been. I' m not sure if any of this is a big deal or not but would like to know why I can' t get 70 lbs out of it any more. Any ideas/suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
#3
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: Question for the Pros
Brand new strings are worse than old ones when it comes to creep. They have to be shot about a hundred times before they' ve settled in to the length they' ll stay at for awhile.
I don' t know how you twisted only the string and didn' t knock your cam' s timing and your draw length out of whack. You need to twist both the string and the cable to make your draw weight come back and not screw everything up.
If the string is too long, to where you have to put a huge number of twists in it to get the bow set right, it' s not going to work right for you. I don' t want to start out with any more than 20 twists in a new string. By the time I' ve got 40 twists in a string, it' s time to replace it. When a string is twisted too much, it starts acting like a coil spring. When you draw the bow, you' re stretching the coils in the ' spring' as much as you' re pulling on the limbs. You lose performance and the bow gets noisier than it should be.
I don' t know how you twisted only the string and didn' t knock your cam' s timing and your draw length out of whack. You need to twist both the string and the cable to make your draw weight come back and not screw everything up.
If the string is too long, to where you have to put a huge number of twists in it to get the bow set right, it' s not going to work right for you. I don' t want to start out with any more than 20 twists in a new string. By the time I' ve got 40 twists in a string, it' s time to replace it. When a string is twisted too much, it starts acting like a coil spring. When you draw the bow, you' re stretching the coils in the ' spring' as much as you' re pulling on the limbs. You lose performance and the bow gets noisier than it should be.
#4
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 2,413
RE: Question for the Pros
I' m not a pro, but I' ll add my 2 cents anyway.
If you shorten the cable, you will add to the pre-stress of the limb, which will increase draw weight. Shortening the cable will also increase draw length.
I wouldn' t pay too much attention to brace height or draw length. Take the string off, put tension on it, and measure it. It is more important that the string and cables are the right length, than things like draw length. Most manufacturers give you draw lengths that are longer than specs anyway. If the cable is the right length and you still can' t reach draw weight, I' d call the manufacturer and double check the correct string and cable lengths. I' ve seen them written incorrectly on the bows, before.
If you shorten the cable, you will add to the pre-stress of the limb, which will increase draw weight. Shortening the cable will also increase draw length.
I wouldn' t pay too much attention to brace height or draw length. Take the string off, put tension on it, and measure it. It is more important that the string and cables are the right length, than things like draw length. Most manufacturers give you draw lengths that are longer than specs anyway. If the cable is the right length and you still can' t reach draw weight, I' d call the manufacturer and double check the correct string and cable lengths. I' ve seen them written incorrectly on the bows, before.
#5
RE: Question for the Pros
Something else to consider is that the axle to axle length and brace height varies on the different Hoyt/Reflex model bows depending on the cam size/draw length range for each particular model. Most of the Hoyt Havocs (very similar to the Denali) that I owned were all longer in brace height and axle to axle length in comparison to the advertised specs. This was the result of a slightly larger cam size than what they utilized to publish the specs with.
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Kansas
Posts: 141
RE: Question for the Pros
Well I twisted the string and cable until I got the BH and the ATA back to specs as well as peak draw weight. But I' m not sure if the cam is in the correct position or not. I called Reflex and he said the only thing to look for is that the string should roll off the end lobe of the cam straight to the idler wheel. I guess I was looking for more detail or a diagram or something. If anyone has more specifics on what the cam on this bow should look like at rest I' d appreciate. Thanks for the help.