RE: Bare shaft planing
 

When I mention " center shot" , that is positioning your arrow rest in the left-to-right adjustment. I' m not that familiar with Easton' s methods, so I can' t comment on what they prescribe.

True center shot is having the arrow rest in direct line with the forward direction of the string. It really has nothing to do with the limbs or their measurements. Cams are different thicknesses and designs depending on the manufacturer and so are limb widths, cam spacer widths, so saying 3/16" from limb center is rather misleading. There are some inexpensive tools for obtaining true centershot, but that may not be the optimum postion for your particular setup. I use true center shot as a starting point and tinker from there.

Here' s the best-bang-fer-yer-buck centershot tool:



There are more fancy ones that use lasers and such, but for just a basic tool to get you in the ballpark, this is where I spent my cash. Made by Golden Key, around $11.00. You take a reading on the rear of the bow from riser to string horizontal distance, and then transfer that measurement to the front of the bow with a nocked arrow to see where that measurement is in relation to the arrow shaft.

RE: Bare shaft planing
 

Thanks, BF

So then after you set " center shot" , would you paper tune to verify that it is a good set-up for that bow?

RE: Bare shaft planing
 

Centershot and nock point are just starting " ballpark" adjustments before paper tuning, group tuning, or trying some b/s experimenting. Nothing is written in stone, and most likely you' ll be tweaking some from there.

RE: Bare shaft planing
 

I' ll add that the impact point of the tips (the point at which the arrow went in the target) is the thing you want to compare between bareshafts and fletched.

Considering " tail-left" or " tail-low" orientation, I' ve developed the following " rule of thumb" for the bareshaft planing test: the fletchings " pull" the point of the arrow in-line with the tail during flight. So, if your centershot is too far right (the arrow leaves the bow " tail-left" ), then, in my experience, the fletched shafts will hit to the left of the bare, and, coincidentally, the tail of the bare shafts will be pointing to the left (toward the flethced arrows in the target). I' ve never had a bare shaft hit right of the fletched ones and have its tail pointing right. (Also never a bare shaft hit low of fletched and have the tail down; it' s always pointing " up" toward the fletched group if the impact was low.)

CENTERSHOT: realize that centershot gadgets can find the " real" centershot of the bow. I' m sure the gauges, lazers, etc. work to find " true center" if used correctly. It seems that Mathews provides this measurement for their bows. HOWEVER, " true centershot" will 99 times out of 100 NOT BE WHERE YOU NEED TO SET YOUR REST! Everyone imparts their own personal amount of torque on the bow handle, and the centershot setting is how you cancel out YOUR grip torque. As many differences as there can be between each archers form, there will be a unique " perfect" centershot for that person. Finding " true center" gives a good starting point, but don' t marry yourself to that setting.

If you are shooting a caliper release, string loop, etc.: Left/Right impacts in bareshaft planing test will be due to centershot or torque. Spine adjustments (turning the limb bolts) will show up as Up/Down impacts (along with nocking point/rest height problems). The Easton guidelines are written for finger release.

RE: Bare shaft planing
 

Thanks All:)

You have been a great help, It' s making a lot more sense now.