I am getting ready to soon shoot through some paper and see how in-tune my bow is since after I replaced the string, just to make sure she is still shooting bullet holes. After that going to see how my broadheads are flying and if need be, broadhead tune once I know center shot is the best it can be and have no cam lean. Just wondering what all of you that BH Tune shoot at for your distances in doing this? Do you keep it at one distance or walk back?

When I BH tune and I am satisfied that my BHs and FTs are hitting same POI at 20 yds, I then move to 30 and 40 yds. Once in a while I will check at 60 yds on those days when I am shooting really well just to give me that extra confidence boost.

Thanks for the input....do you continue to make adjustments when you move back in distance?

Only if you are confident that your form and technique are good and if your BHs consistently hit the same point in relation to your FTs. Now be aware that you only move your rest minute amounts at a time and only in one direction at a time. The longer distances will either validate or magnify any corrections needed in fine tuning your bow.

There's no need to broad head tune the bow if the bow is tuned properly. Not all broad heads fly like field points, that's impossible, the design of a broad head is not as aerodynamic as a FP, I know some will argue that, but your free to express your opinion, even though you're wrong.

It doesn't take long to adjust your pins to BH's adjusting and tuning are two complete different animals. When I could only afford one bow (a million years ago) I only shot BH until the season was over. I have compounds and trad bows that are each used for a specific purpose and they are all fined to it's intended use.

Rev this is probably the first time I have a difference of opinion than your's. While I agree it is true that BHs and FTs have different aerodynamics you can get them to hit the same POI within what I would consider ethical hunting ranges (<50 yards).
But...and this is something a lot of people do not do.. Not only does your bow have to be properly tuned, but so do your arrows. Both ends need to be square, inserts must be aligned/square to the shaft, BHs must be installed with zero misalignment and of course shafts need to be properly spined. I have shot my BHs with bare shafts at 20 yards (in a safe area) and had them hit same POI as my FTs. If this is done correctly the rotation of the shaft in flight from the fletching will ensure same POI.
Like I said many times, I respect your opinion and I'm sure we can have a long discussion on this but I've done this with probably the last 5 or 6 bows that I've owned. Of course this PSE DNA was giving me fits until I finally figured out what was wrong.

You're missing the underlying principle for broadhead tuning entirely. The POINT of broadhead tuning is NOT to get your BH's to fly to the same POI as your FP's, that's simply a side effect. As you pointed out, the drag of BH's is NOT the same as FP's, so as you increase range, the increased drag of BH's will cause more drop under the arrow than it had with FP's. That's straight forward, simple physics.

Why a shooter SHOULD BH tune, which IS TUNING, not just adjusting, is the simple fact that eccentricity of the BH matters considerably more than it does for FP's. The BH's have a larger superficial (average) diameter, therefore any eccentricity as it spins in the air will have a more dramatic effect. Also, the 'modular' construction of replaceable blade BH's means combined with that increased drag on the blades means you'll see uneven drag on one side versus the other unless you make your best effort to eliminate the eccentric imbalance.

I do agree, however, that a shooter should be ADJUSTING their sight to line up with the slightly different trajectory of BH's rather than FP's, BUT, the science AND practice does support that longer range flight IS effected by improperly installed BH's.

[QUOTE=Nomercy448;4151657]You're missing the underlying principle for broadhead tuning entirely. The POINT of broadhead tuning is NOT to get your BH's to fly to the same POI as your FP's, that's simply a side effect. As you pointed out, the drag of BH's is NOT the same as FP's, so as you increase range, the increased drag of BH's will cause more drop under the arrow than it had with FP's. That's straight forward, simple physics.

Why a shooter SHOULD BH tune, which IS TUNING, not just adjusting, is the simple fact that eccentricity of the BH matters considerably more than it does for FP's. The BH's have a larger superficial (average) diameter, therefore any eccentricity as it spins in the air will have a more dramatic effect. Also, the 'modular' construction of replaceable blade BH's means combined with that increased drag on the blades means you'll see uneven drag on one side versus the other unless you make your best effort to eliminate the eccentric imbalance.

QUOTE]

While I also agree, but I think the biggest area missed for those of us who do "BH Tune" is to "tune" to the fletching as well. I have seen way to many people say they have "tuned" the BH's to the shaft but ignored the fletching which aerodynamically will throw it all away. IMHO more so than anything else. Which for me was always a puzzler as to why anyone would shoot a 2 blade or even a 4 blade BH..

3 vanes = 3 blade tuned to the leading edge = maximum spin = "true" flight path...