wetpwdr53

I just switched from feathers and installed quick spin vanes using quick fletch. The process worked slick. My first test found my arrows literally hitting nearly a foot high and to the right. This is probably a stupid question, but is this normal when switching to vanes? Thanks for the input.

mn trucker

They might not be clearing your rest

wetpwdr53

I'm using a drop away. I shouldn't be having that issue, should I?

bronko22000

You also didn't say what kind of bow you were shooting or what length quik spin vanes.
The shorter (2") vanes have a higher profile then the 4". I was having flight issues with my PSE DNA bow with 2" Blazers which have the same profile as the 2" Quik Spins. The vanes were making contact with the riser. I don't know why but PSE IMO does not put enough center shot clearance into their risers. I switched to the 4" vanes and have no issues.

VT Outfitter

Anytime I make changes to different arrow companies, different rest, or changing of any part on my bow I always start over with the sighting in process. I switched from Gold tip arrows with the short blazer vanes to Victory VAP with short blazer vanes. The sight I have and am really happy with is the single pin adjustable yardage with a wheel by HHA. It is a drop away rest that comes with different sticky tape strips for different lb draw bows. You sight in at 20 yards, make a mark with a pencil on the blank starter strip. Then sight in at 40 yards, make a mark on the same blank strip. You then match the strip to the other finished strips provided, now your sighted in from
0-60 yards. When I made the arrow diameter change from Gold tip to Victory, I had to change to a tighter group marking strip. As long as your arrows are grouping, I would just re-sight your sight pin, as long as the arrow is clearing the rest when released. I hope this helps. Good luck to you this season!

Whitetail Strategies Guide Service
Fred Scott Owner/Head Guide

Nomercy448

Where were your bareshafts hitting compared to your feathers? Compared to your vanes?

As others have mentioned, I start over from scratch whenever I mane a change like that. But I also don't like to have my fletched arrows not shoot to the same poi as my bareshafts. If any difference, only elevation.

Not worth a conversation to talk about clearance issues. Powder test and you'll have your answer, no reason to speculate. Have you paper tuned with the new vanes in place?

bronko22000

No Mercy, without arguing the issue, after reading his post again I would have to say that he probably has clearance issues. And he may have even had them from the onset using feathers. Most of us on here know that feathers are far more forgiving with fletching contact than are vanes. And most of us also know that out of a properly tuned bow bare shafts, vanes, feathers or whatever should all hit very close to same POI. But we don't know what experience this person has.
As for the powder test. I don't like putting powder on my riser. Instead I borrow my one of my wife's brightest lipsticks and coat the edge of the vanes. At the shot the lipstick will mark where it makes contact (rest or riser) and the vane will usually be wiped clean.

Nomercy448

Don't take my previous post incorrectly to mean that I don't believe he has clearance issues. My post was meant to point out, as it states, that it's not worth talking about, it would have been faster to do the test than to type his original post. Do the test, figure out whether you're making contact or not, and there's no more speculation about whether feathers or vanes fly differently. Whether a guy uses powder, lipstick, dry erase marker, or whatever as the witness substrate, the fact remains - it's quick, easy, FREE, and conclusive.

Comparatively speaking: It's not like a conversation whether your arrows are underspined or not, where it might cost you $100 to try a new shaft to eliminate stiffness as a variable. Or a conversation about whether your timing is out of whack and you need a certain level of expertise (and equipment) to press the bow and balance cables, and whether you believe your local shop HAS that expertise to be able to remedy the situation, rather than making it worse.

It's kinda like saying my car won't start... I suppose it could be a dead battery, or a bad starter relay, or water in my distributor cap, bad plug wires or plugs, or something wrong with the fuel management computer, he11, she could have seized entirely for one reason or another, or maybe a bird built a nest in my air intake... But step number one should be to verify that there's gas in the tank.

If he does the test and finds out there is no contact, then obviously there's something else afoot. As I mentioned in my original response, if that's the case, I'd start looking at my tuning practice from square one. Again, I'd ask the question, where did his bareshafts strike relative to his feather fletched arrows? Where do they strike relative to his vane fletched arrows?

bronko22000

Agreed, it is all speculation. We have no idea what kind of experience this person has. And there are way too many variables to consider.
And I agree that a "contact" test should be the first thing to do. My brand new PSE DNA was giving me fits after having it set up by a reputable shop. I had switched from Rage mechanicals to Slick Trick fixed blade BHs and although consistent was not getting the same POI with them as my FTs.
After doings some checking I found out I had some cam lean on my upper cam and was also getting slight fletching contact with Blazer vanes. (even after putting the bow in my press and correcting the cam lean). A switch to 4" lower profile vanes now has my BHs and FTs hitting same POI at all distances.

deerhunter518

I would check your center shot first make sure the arrow is leaving square. make sure your form is correct and you have good follow through. if everything is good the extra spin from the quick spin could be just pushing it through the air.