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Do old compounds need a cable guard?

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Do old compounds need a cable guard?

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Old 10-03-2014, 06:30 PM
  #11  
Spike
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
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I have an old Bear Black Bear. I found out today, the hole facing you is NOT 5/16"-24. The actual thread size is 7/16"-20.

They don't make a threaded cable guide rod in that size that I could locate. I'm going to have to fabricate an adapter.
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Old 10-05-2014, 01:33 PM
  #12  
Spike
 
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I found a 7/16"-20 external to 5/16"-24 internal threaded inserts. They will probably cost more to ship than the cost of the insert.

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/me...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

or

http://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/T...573+4288245784

Another option is to take a 7/16"-20 bolt from Home Depot, use a size "I" drill bit to drill down the center of the bolt and then tap it for 5/16"-24. Then you'd need to cut the bolt to the correct length to make it an insert. I'd probably use permanent loctite on it too.

Last edited by hardwarz; 10-05-2014 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 12-28-2014, 10:14 AM
  #13  
Nontypical Buck
 
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Check out a machine shop. They probably have what is known as a heli coil. This is something similar that is shown in the links shown by hardwarz. If they have, the machinist could build the 3/8 inch offset cable guard (rod) that you need. Make sure the rod is not larger than 3/8 inch out side diameter because if you put a slide or cable roller on it, these parts fit a 3/8 rod. If they have a rod that is (cold rolled steel) this is very smooth. The threads on the rod have to protrude out of the bow to be able to put a thin lock nut on it. The reason for the lock nut, when off setting the rod for clearance, the nut is tightened to keep the rod from moving. The rod has to be long enough that when you come to full draw, the cables do not come off the end of the rod. An inch and a half longer should be acceptable. This will allow for the extra wideth of a slide or roller, plus a bit extra if over drawing the bow. Best of luck.
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Old 12-31-2014, 04:30 AM
  #14  
Nontypical Buck
 
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I know this is an old thread and as usually happens the OP has not followed thru with letting us know how he's done, but here is my input.

7/16x20 is really an odd size for any hole on a bow. For as long as I can remember (35+ years) most holes were standardized by the ATA. Most all threaded holes for stabilizers and cable rods were/are 5/16x24. Today there are no threaded rods being used. They are all 3/8" rods just pressed into a plain 3/8" hole and secured by either epoxy or a set screw coming in from the side of the riser.

Eders.com has a Cobra rod for $11 that is threaded that may work. If the hole in the riser is 5/16" I would drill it out to 3/8" and drill and tap a hole from the side for a set screw to secure it. In fact, I'd drill and tap for a set screw no matter what rod is used. Then just cut the threaded portion off with a hacksaw and bevel the end with a file. Buy a cable slide with the rod and no extra cable separator will be needed.

Parts for old bows are just about nonexistent so you have to think outside the box and be willing to improvise.

But to answer the original question? Yes, a cable rod/slide of some sort is necessary if you're getting any fletching contact at all, especially if shooting vanes.
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