Bare shaft hitting right, need help!
 

I' m trying to learn how to tune my own bow, I have shot for years but I' m tired of having to go to a bow shop everytime I need something. My problem is this:

My paper tears seem to look good but once in awhile I get a left tear (not sure if its the set up or hand torque). So I thought I would try to bare shaft tune and my unfletched arrow is hitting about 6 inches to the right of my fletched arrows, the height is good just hitting right. The easton manual says I need a stiffer shaft but I' m shooting a 2314 which seems like a stiffer shaft than I really need.
Can someone help me out here, I dont mind getting more shafts but only if needed. I would hate to buy new shafts and still have the same problem.
Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.

My set up is:
Mathews MQ1
29" cam
26 3/4" XX75 2314
60 pound draw weight
Tornado release
Muzzy Zero Effect rest.

I have checked for rest contact and there is not any, the arrows are leaving the bow clean.[:-]
Thanks again

RE: Bare shaft hitting right, need help!
 

One sugestion is , if you are shooting 125 grain heads try 100 grain , allso if you are shooting vanes with the cock vane down look at the arrows that are shooting a tear with , and see if you are getting vane contact . A 100 grain head on that arrow has you spined right about perfect according to the archery program , at 63 lbs ,which is about where 60 lb bows max at . If you still have problems try a couple 2315' s and see how they shoot out of your bow .

RE: Bare shaft hitting right, need help!
 

I knew i would leave something out. I' m shoothing a 100 grain head and I do shoot with the cock vane up. I used spray powder on the arrows and there is no contact with the rest.
My MQ1 has a max draw of 70 pounds but I have it set on 60.

When trying to determine the correct arrow size do you go by the bows max draw weight or the actual poundage you have the bow set on?

Thanks

RE: Bare shaft hitting right, need help!
 

On the arrow charts, you go by the poundage you' re actually shooting. The Easton chart shows 2312, 2213 or 2215 for your current setup.

Switching to a 125 gn tip or raising your draw weight to 65 pounds would put you in 2314. Try 125' s and see what happens. If you can handle some extra draw weight, you could also start bumping up the draw weight 1 turn at a time and see what that does for you.

Shooting a bow at it' s minimum setting will give you some issues to deal with; tuning, mediocre performance and noise in particular. A 60 pound bow set at 60 pounds will shoot the same arrow faster and quieter than an identical 70 pound bow set at 60 pounds, and it will tune easier.

RE: Bare shaft hitting right, need help!
 

Now I' m starting to get really confused [X(]

According to the easton chart and program I' m overspined, Is that right?

If my bare shafts are hitting to the right of my fletched shafts that means I' m underspined, is that right?

Adding draw weight or tip weight would just make that worse if I' m thinking right.

I' m just trying to get a good understanding of whats going on.

RE: Bare shaft hitting right, need help!
 

Which arrow is stiffer 2314 or 2215?

I hate to be a pain but if I dont ask questions I can never learn. :D

RE: Bare shaft hitting right, need help!
 

Just a semi-educated guess, but my guess is you' ve got your rest sitting a little right of centershot to get overspined fletched arrows to shoot center.

2314 is one spine class stiffer than 2215.

RE: Bare shaft hitting right, need help!
 

Wait a minute here:)

Lets not jump to spine conclusions so soon.

If you can' t get rid of the right impact after adjusting rest and grip - THEN i would look into spine - but not before.

Move your rest out a tad and see if it helps. Bare shafts take some time to get perfect. The way you grip the bow is also important.

RE: Bare shaft hitting right, need help!
 

Rac,

First off, let me say that " self-tuning" is the only way to go. Each of us grip our bows differently, and you need to set your own bow up for the amount of natural torque that YOUR grip method induces.

Arrows are selected using your actual draw weight. The arrow doesn' t care what potential setting your bow has. Remember, there is absolutely no way that Easton can provide a chart that works exactly for all bows. A Brand X bow (29" draw, 61# draw) may shoot your arrow at 254 fps while Brand Y (same draw length and weight) may shoot it at 272 fps. Guess what? Brand Y is shoving more energy into the arrow, and will therefore require a stiffer shaft. (Or would need to be turned down a few pounds to use the same arrow.)

With your caliper style release, you can throw the Easton tuning guide (and all other printed " rules" ) out the window. They were written specifically for finger release. During the shot, there is nothing in your setup that should produce side-to-side oscillations. Therefore, spine inadequacies should show up as VERTICAL tears or Hi/Lo hits with the bareshaft.

I would first try some centershot (left/right) adjustments with your rest, especially since you' ve ruled clearance problems.

Now, one thing about the MZE (I shoot one, too) is that it IS an overdraw. I see that you (like me) are using it as such, having an arrow length several inches shorter than the draw length. {I forgot to say that because your arrow is so short, I don' t think you have any major spine issues. Stiff is good in your " straight ahead" release setup, so I wouldn' t worry too much there.} Now, back to the overdraw. You need to pay very close attention to torque. An overdraw amplifies this because it' s farther from this pivot point of the torque (the grip throat.)

While at full draw, look down at the tip of your arrow and torque the bow right and left intentionally. Watch how much the arrow moves in realtion to the riser shelf/sight window. Shoot a few arrows while intentionally torquing one way, and then the other, just to determine what effect it has. This helped me develop an understanding of how MY inconsistencies can effect my setup.

One last thing: bare shaft testing is THE method in my book, because the results are easily quanitfied (you have a bare shaft and a fletched one to compare each time: a reference datum), AND you can' t cheat to get good results. But, results don' t HAVE to be perfect to achieve a good setup. How far away from the target are you, and how far are the bare shafts from the fletched? I' m about 1.5 to 2 inches apart at 20 yards and that' s plenty good to get great broadhead flight.

Don' t be afraid to mark your settings and make adjustments. If you know where you were, you can always " get back there" . If things get better, keep going. If they get worse, go back and do the opposite. Good luck and keep it fun!

RE: Bare shaft hitting right, need help!
 

How would that apply to a dropaway rest? Seems to me, since there' s nothing for the arrow to paradox against, spine issues can show up in ANY direction, and could change depending on which direction the arrow was heading when it was launched???