paper tune question
#1
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Bellows Falls,VT
Posts: 32
paper tune question
I started paper tuneing my bow anf now have a question. I am attaching a picture of my paper. My shots seem to be high right. Is this a rest issue or a rest and spine issue?
Thanks for the helphttp:// <a href=http://s1262.photobu...er=0 alt=></a>
Thanks for the helphttp:// <a href=http://s1262.photobu...er=0 alt=></a>
#2
I started paper tuneing my bow anf now have a question. I am attaching a picture of my paper. My shots seem to be high right. Is this a rest issue or a rest and spine issue?
Thanks for the helphttp:// <a href=http://s1262.photobu...er=0 alt=></a>
Thanks for the helphttp:// <a href=http://s1262.photobu...er=0 alt=></a>
Generally, there could be several thins going on. First, a high tear usually means that the nocking point is too high so you move that down. Take care of the vertical tear first. It may even help with the horizontal. The right tear could be a spine issue, centershot problem, or torquing by you. It could also be cam lean and can be adjusted if you have a bow with yoke
cable(s) on it.
Can'r say anything definite till we know the specs of your setup.
#3
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Bellows Falls,VT
Posts: 32
i am shooting a PSE Nova, its a 30 inch draw low 60's for draw weight and am shooting 340 spine Easton Full metal jackets. I dropped the draw weight to help with potential under spine issues. I have a drop away rest. the bow is a older single cam.
#4
I tell you, this is what I found to be the best way to self tune your bow at home. I take 2 carpenter levels (because they prove to be straight edges), a vernier caliper, two clamps and a bow T square. Square up your knock point on your string using your T square. Then take your two levels and clamp them to each side of your bow using the flat section where your limbs attach. Then use the vernier caliper to ensure your arrow is equal distance to each edge of the level on either side. Adjust your rest accordingly.
I ended up doing this after several trips to different bow shops that always ended in disappointment and different attempts to get it right myself using paper turning. I knew there had to be a better and cheaper way.
Btw, one great way to sight in your bow is to stand 10' from your target on a level plane with your bullseye. Becareful of what's behind your target since at this range shooting through is a big possibility. Sight your pin dead on to the bullseye. This should work out to being approximately 22 to 25 yards out for dead on shot. I prefer only one pin and will adjust my aim accordingly.
Good luck.
I ended up doing this after several trips to different bow shops that always ended in disappointment and different attempts to get it right myself using paper turning. I knew there had to be a better and cheaper way.
Btw, one great way to sight in your bow is to stand 10' from your target on a level plane with your bullseye. Becareful of what's behind your target since at this range shooting through is a big possibility. Sight your pin dead on to the bullseye. This should work out to being approximately 22 to 25 yards out for dead on shot. I prefer only one pin and will adjust my aim accordingly.
Good luck.
#6
Sorry, perhaps I got too technical. You shoot bullet holes when your bow is shooting at "0" degrees off of center. One way to make it happen is to uses a ruler.