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Tuning with BH

Old 05-16-2012, 08:07 PM
  #1  
Nontypical Buck
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Default Tuning with BH

Everyone says to dial FP then BH should be close if not than a small adjustment is all it should take.

Anyone ever start out with BH and tune with them (paper, walk back, etc) then see where the FP hits and tune from there? Is it possible or are there logistics that I am not thinking of making it not work that way?
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Old 05-17-2012, 04:52 PM
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I tune with broadheads paper tuning and walk back tuning. Find it better for I tune a bow for which mostly hunting. My field points hit with my broadheads after tuning this way.
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Old 05-20-2012, 04:10 AM
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JN - I never paper tune anymore. Here's what I do.
1. set my bow up for centershot and my arrow 90* to the string.
2. sight the bow in at 10 yds
3. shoot one arrow at 10, 20, 30, 35, 40, 45 (35 is enough) and check for vertical
stringing. If not adjust rest accordingly and repeat.
4. Shoot a FT then a BH at 20 yds and 'chase' the BH with the FT by moving the rest in the direction toward the BH. (Tip: when you start getting close, either at 2
different aiming points or shoo the BH first. It saves your fletching.)
5. Move back to 30 or even 40 yds and do the same thing. Remember in steps 4 and
5 you only move the rest in 1/32" increments.
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Old 05-20-2012, 07:07 PM
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Your system you use Bronko Ive seen a lot of people use and it works better I believe
.Next time I set a bow up going to use that system.
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Old 05-22-2012, 07:37 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by JNTURK View Post
Everyone says to dial FP then BH should be close if not than a small adjustment is all it should take.

Anyone ever start out with BH and tune with them (paper, walk back, etc) then see where the FP hits and tune from there? Is it possible or are there logistics that I am not thinking of making it not work that way?

No,starting with broadheads would create a tuning nightmare.Reason being is the heads will dictate what the arrow does regardless of the tune and you woulod constantly be getting a false reading.

Set centershot with walk back or french tune and then go to broadhead tune.After the broadheads are hitting with FP's then check paper.If there is a tear at this point,you have a torque,spine,contact,tiller,timing or yoke issue.Or in a rare case,a riser or limb issue.
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Old 05-23-2012, 07:43 PM
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Thanks for everyone's input.

TFOX- thanks for the insight.
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Old 05-25-2012, 05:33 PM
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JN- I should have been a little more descriptive in my method. I assumed you knew to use FTs in steps 2 and 3 of my tuning method. If not, I hope it didn't confuse you.
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Old 05-27-2012, 09:38 PM
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I don't paper tune either. I prefer to run my setup thru OT2 first with it set for both target and hunting. I find the arrow set up I want based on weight and foc. I shoot for 20% or more foc with an arrow that weighs 7.5grs per pound of draw weight. I am building an elk killer arrow.

I set the center by more or less eyesight aligning the string to the cams and down the center of the shaft. I verify by measuring off the riser. It does not have to be perfect at this point but does have to be close.

Once I find the arrow setup I like that hits the far weak side in OT2 I cut the shaft at that length. I then take a trip to the bow range with the arrow saw. I have a converter that plugs into my cig lighter so I can run the thing. I take a plastic bag and use it in place of glue for the insert, I then screw in the fieldtip. There are no fletchings on this arrow. I proceed to shoot from 20 yards. If it flies straight I back out to 30 yds, if it flies straight I go to 40yds and so on out to 80 yds.

You have to pay attention to the flight of the bare shaft. If anywhere along the line the nock end of the shaft swings left and stays that way to the target, with the tip hitting to the right of the spot, consistently, the shaft is to weak. In this case I pull the insert and cut off a 1/2" of shaft and try again. If the nock swings up raise the rest. If the nock swings down lower it. The arrow should fly straight all the way. If you get it right out to 40 to 50 yds then it will be good to 80. Get it right and you will be able to hit a pie plate with the bare shaft at 80 yards.

Now fletch the shaft and you may as well make up 2 more arrows. 2 for field points and one for your chosen broadhead. Its easy from here, just tune accordingly. However, if you have to move the rest out enough so you obviously are no longer centered to get the broadheads to hit with your fieldpoints the shaft is still to weak so cut another half inch. This doesn't always happen but occasionally it does.

Any way, if you tune your set up this way you will be able to shoot any fixed blade broadhead you want and it will hit with your fieldtips.
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