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Broadhead flight

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Broadhead flight

Old 03-18-2012, 02:08 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by screamin
Turk, so 30" draw at 70lbs with a peep and loop on the string. You shoot the Maxima Hunter KV 350 with 100gr heads cut to 30" correct? If so, that arrow is to weak. If you went to the regular Maxima Hunter 450 you would be really close. Might have to cut a 1/4" off the shaft to be perfect though, just have to experiment and see.
That is correct. Everything I have read and when I have asked people to plug it in the computer programs it comes back as ok, but borderline ok.

So you say that a Maximum 450 cut to 30" or 29.75" would almost be perfect? Is this ran through a program or what you think, (I am not trying to come off as rude I am just curious)?
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Old 03-18-2012, 02:12 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by bigbulls
Turk, why are your arrows so long?

If you cut about 2 inches off the arrow you are shooting now you should get real close to a perfect spine for your set up.
My arrows are that long for really only two reasons.

1- My draw is 30" and so I had them cut to 30." This gives me about 2-2.5" of arrow past my rest.

2- I hunt big game and wanted weight on my arrow. an extra inch or two does that.

Sooo...You are saying if I cut the 350's to 28" at a 30" draw that should put me much closer to perfect spine? Is this your opinion or something ran through a software program, (again please don't take it the wrong way, I am just trying to learn and understand your thought process)?
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Old 03-18-2012, 02:21 PM
  #33  
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Its out of a program that I find to be very close with my bows and it shows your present set up not even close to borderline. Let me ask you this, when you have your bow dialed in to shoot fieldpoints and then you switch to broadheads, which way do you move the rest? Cutting 2" is still going to be to weak but it would be an improvement.

Last edited by screamin; 03-18-2012 at 02:25 PM.
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Old 03-18-2012, 02:31 PM
  #34  
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My arrows are that long for really only two reasons.

1- My draw is 30" and so I had them cut to 30." This gives me about 2-2.5" of arrow past my rest.
Don't worry about if the arrow is sticking out past the rest. It isn't important unless you are shooting a bow where you hand may come in contact with the broadhead, like a traditional bow.

2- I hunt big game and wanted weight on my arrow. an extra inch or two does that.
Two inches of carbon arrow isn't going to matter one way or the other. It's only about 17 grains total. However, an arrow with the proper spine will give you better penetration because it will not be wasting energy correcting its flight on the way to the target. Once it gets there it will hit the animal straight on instead of at a slight angle and the arrow will penetrate in a straight line instead of slapping the sides of the hole as the arrow passes through.

Sooo...You are saying if I cut the 350's to 28" at a 30" draw that should put me much closer to perfect spine? Is this your opinion or something ran through a software program, (again please don't take it the wrong way, I am just trying to learn and understand your thought process)?
This comes from years of experience and using software when I need to. Cutting the 2 inches will likely still not give you the perfect spine but it will be much closer than were you are now. If you can fork out the cash the 450's is where you really need to go.

An good example is my own set up. I have an Invasion set at 71 pounds and 29.5" draw length. My arrows (Easton ACC 3-71's) were initially cut to 29 inches. Broadhead flight was only decent and no matter how much fine tuning I did the broadhead tipped arrows just weren't getting it. I had cut them that length with out running though OT2 knowing I could go shorter if I needed to. After dicking around with tuning for a couple of days I ran my numbers through OT2 and the perfect spine for my set up was actually 27.5" with a 100 grain tip. Once I cut the arrows everything came together and broadhead flight was perfect as far as I cared to shoot (70 yards) at a target.
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Old 03-18-2012, 02:46 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by screamin
Its out of a program that I find to be very close with my bows and it shows your present set up not even close to borderline. Let me ask you this, when you have your bow dialed in to shoot fieldpoints and then you switch to broadheads, which way do you move the rest? Cutting 2" is still going to be to weak but it would be an improvement.
My BH hit at 20 about 2" to the right of my FP. As the distances get further the seperation increases.

So in your program what length of an arrow (say the Maxium Hunter dual spine weight forward 450's) should I be shooting?

Does your software show an optimum arrow cut to 'x' length that would be the best spinned for my setup?

Two questions (again I apprecite all your insight, I am just trying to learn from this):

1- Does 1" of draw really cause this much change in spine? My cousin shoots 29" and has his arrows cut to 29" (same as mine) and he has zero issues?

2- How come their charts and another software program (I had asked on this forum, I will try and dig up the advice I received a while back) show that I should be fine?

Last edited by JNTURK; 03-18-2012 at 02:49 PM.
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Old 03-18-2012, 02:49 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by bigbulls
This comes from years of experience and using software when I need to. Cutting the 2 inches will likely still not give you the perfect spine but it will be much closer than were you are now. If you can fork out the cash the 450's is where you really need to go.

An good example is my own set up. I have an Invasion set at 71 pounds and 29.5" draw length. My arrows (Easton ACC 3-71's) were initially cut to 29 inches. Broadhead flight was only decent and no matter how much fine tuning I did the broadhead tipped arrows just weren't getting it. I had cut them that length with out running though OT2 knowing I could go shorter if I needed to. After dicking around with tuning for a couple of days I ran my numbers through OT2 and the perfect spine for my set up was actually 27.5" with a 100 grain tip. Once I cut the arrows everything came together and broadhead flight was perfect as far as I cared to shoot (70 yards) at a target.

So in your program what length of an arrow (say the Maxium Hunter dual spine weight forward 450's) should I be shooting?

Does your software show an optimum arrow cut to 'x' length that would be the best spinned for my setup?

Two questions (again I apprecite all your insight, I am just trying to learn from this):

1- Does 1" of draw really cause this much change in spine? My cousin shoots 29" and has his arrows cut to 29" (same as mine) and he has zero issues?

2- How come their charts and another software program (I had asked on this forum, I will try and dig up the advice I received a while back) show that I should be fine?


---I know I am asking you the same questions as screamin, I really am just looking for more opinions from those with more knowledge on the subject than I.
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Old 03-18-2012, 03:07 PM
  #37  
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So in your program what length of an arrow (say the Maxium Hunter dual spine weight forward 450's) should I be shooting?
I don't have the program on the computer here at the house but with your specs the 450's with a 100 grain tip and fletched with blazers you should cut the arrows to about 28 - 29 inches. If TFOX chimes in again I think he has OT2 on his computer. He may be able to run the numbers for you.

1- Does 1" of draw really cause this much change in spine? My cousin shoots 29" and has his arrows cut to 29" (same as mine) and he has zero issues?
Yes, it absolutely can make a huge difference.

Is your cousin shooting the exact same bow with the exact same draw weight?

But right off the bat his arrows are 1" shorter and his draw length is 1" shorter. Both of these contribute to needing a less stiff arrow. If he is shooting a different bow with a different cam this would also effect the arrow needed.


2- How come their charts and another software program (I had asked on this forum, I will try and dig up the advice I received a while back) show that I should be fine?
The charts are only a very general guide line. For instance...... take two bows both set to 70 pounds and 30" DL. One bow has a 6" brace height, dual cams and an IBO of 350 fps. The other bow has an 8" brace height, a soft single cam and an IBO of 320 fps. These two bows would need very drastically different arrows set ups but if you just go by the numbers on the charts you will end up with very wrong arrows for one or both of the bows.

Last edited by bigbulls; 03-18-2012 at 03:09 PM.
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Old 03-18-2012, 04:52 PM
  #38  
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bb-

Very enlightening! Thank you for taking the time to comment on my posts, I appreciate it.




Hopefully someone who has the program could run my numbers and see just what size shaft arrow (and which arrow) would work out best for my current set up?
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Old 03-18-2012, 06:07 PM
  #39  
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Bulls I no longer have OT2. I just prefer using archers advantage. Much more user friendly. However I think you have this one covered.

My AA program is on my wifes laptop and she is studying for 5 test this week so im on my phone for a while.
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Old 03-18-2012, 06:13 PM
  #40  
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Broadheads hitting right of field points IS a weak arrow reaction.

Easy to check. Back poundage off 5#. See if it gets better. If it does. You know you need lower poundage, stiffer arrows or shorter arrows.
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