arrow selection question
 

I am looking at shooting the piledriver hunter by carbon express next year, can afford to keep buying the maxima hunters. Carbon express's site is kind of stumping me and the tech rep and my calculation of my adjusted draw weight are different so any help is appreciated. I shoot a hoyt turbohawk, 28" draw, 60#, mechanical release, 100 grain broadhead.....Should I be shooting the 250 or 350 series? Thanks
Chris

IMO I think the 250's would be fine.

250 and it will probably still be a little on the stiff side. Charts are based on static spine but the bow reacts to dynamic spine.

How long are your arrows?
I use this spine chart to figure out what I need.

Archers Advantage.com

Unfortunately, some shooters
 

can't make twenty foot jump shoots in basketball, either.

Hit and run poster here anymore, but this one caught my attention a bit late....

Actually the 350's would be better. Cut the 28" and put a 125gr tip out front. That Turbohawk is a pretty torquy little bow, thus the 320fps IBO, and it's actually a lot closer to a 320fps IBO rating than a lot of bows that "rated" higher. Hoyt actually is one of the THE closest to their IBO rating they advertise. With some tweaking, occasionally someone will actually get their bow to shoot at or over IBO, but it takes tweaking by hands that KNOW what they are doing. Side by side, that bow will shoot FASTER than an Elite Z28 which is "rated" at 328fps IBO, yet when tested at least 2 different places it came in a sluggish 12-14fps slower than IBO!!!! What's that mean??? There's a reason all those guys thought their Z28 was AMAZINGLY smooth for it's "speed." It didn't really have the "speed" they thought they were getting. Spine selections are where the ACTUAL speed of the bow really means something. Beyond that whether that bow is 280 or 300 fps, as long as you can hit your target, it don't matter, but a 280fps energy charge don't need as much stiffness to absorb the "shot" as that 300fps energy charge will. Coming off the string that arrow is gonna flex and couple times and stabilize, too much flex results in late stabilization, and poor arrow flight, often times flying off to the riser side, too stiff stabilizes too fast, yet doesn't fly nearly as well either and often times ends up flying a little away from the riser. Get it just right, and sometimes just putting your riser at "center-rest" and adjusting your nockpoint will get you tuned, and in short order.


Now I'll tell you to go buy some AMERICAN made arrows and support an AMERICAN company. Easton/Beman are the only AMERICAN MADE arrows I know of. Victory is gonna tell you they're made in North America, but that ain't AMERICAN, it's MEXICAN. Gold Tip's once upon a time were, and supposedly were coming back, but that's not happened just yet, and I believe maybe that was just a ploy to attract customers, Carbon Express are made in China and Korea, so that leaves you those above unless there is another AMERICAN MADE arrow I don't know about, and if there is, it doesn't necessarily have the GOOD NAME of the Easton/Beman company.

I like easton hidden inserts they are heavier and yet smaller diameter for superior penitration.