paper tuning
01-05-2011, 03:34 PM
#1
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 32
paper tuning
This will be my second year with a bow and I hear a lot of talk about paper tuning. Is this important I shoot well at 60 yrds not perfect but I am impressed for not shooting long. What is the purpose and how do I do it?
01-06-2011, 03:56 AM
#2
Spike
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Maryland
Posts: 31
Shooting an arrow through paper allows you to see what it is doing at a specific point in it's flight. You can see if it's coming off the rest straight or not.
For example, if it's coming off with the nock end higher than it should be you will get a vertical tear in the paper. If you look closely, you will be able to see the tears of the fletching at the top of the tear. But only if the paper is withing a few feet of the bow. Further out the fletching will overcorrect and the fletching tears will be on the bottom end of the tear. In this case you would lower your nocking point on your string a little.
For more on this, download the Easton Tuning Guide.
Paper tuning can be a very effective tool for getting good arrow flight. However, it is not the only tool and it has some limitations. The biggest limitation seems to be that the archer has to have good form, especially the bow hand. It's very easy to torque the riser a little and get false readings on the paper. I've read many posts where someone discounts the effectiveness of paper tuning. I think that most of these archers simply don't have good enough form to be able to get consistent and meaningful data from the paper.
Most archers use paper tuning as a first basic step in tuning their bows. Then they move on to other methods, such as walk back, bare shaft and group tuning.
Hope this helps,
Allen
For example, if it's coming off with the nock end higher than it should be you will get a vertical tear in the paper. If you look closely, you will be able to see the tears of the fletching at the top of the tear. But only if the paper is withing a few feet of the bow. Further out the fletching will overcorrect and the fletching tears will be on the bottom end of the tear. In this case you would lower your nocking point on your string a little.
For more on this, download the Easton Tuning Guide.
Paper tuning can be a very effective tool for getting good arrow flight. However, it is not the only tool and it has some limitations. The biggest limitation seems to be that the archer has to have good form, especially the bow hand. It's very easy to torque the riser a little and get false readings on the paper. I've read many posts where someone discounts the effectiveness of paper tuning. I think that most of these archers simply don't have good enough form to be able to get consistent and meaningful data from the paper.
Most archers use paper tuning as a first basic step in tuning their bows. Then they move on to other methods, such as walk back, bare shaft and group tuning.
Hope this helps,
Allen
01-18-2011, 08:03 AM
#4
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 12,746
For me I personally have stopped using the paper tuning method. Especially after doing a good bit of reading on this forum and setting up several bows this past season. Reason is that paper tuning will only get you close. Here is how I set up a bow.(Assuming you are using a release aid)
1. Set your nock set above an arrow squared to the string.
2. Adjust you rest so that the point of the arrow is in line with the string and the center line of the limbs.
3. Sight in your bow (start close if you're unfamiliar with it)
4. Then using your 20 yd pin shoot at 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 yds if space is limited. If not shoot at 10, 20, 30 40....
Your arrows should fall in a verticle line. (see tuning using walk back method for adjusting your rest)
5. Next and last - shoot your broadheads and your fieldtips. Both should be hitting the same point of impact. If not you will need to adjust your nock set or rest accordingly.
Once you are done with this and your BHs and FTs are hitting the same spot it is possible that if you go back and check on paper - you may not be getting a 'perfect' hole. But who cares. If you do your part, you will hit what you are shooting at.
1. Set your nock set above an arrow squared to the string.
2. Adjust you rest so that the point of the arrow is in line with the string and the center line of the limbs.
3. Sight in your bow (start close if you're unfamiliar with it)
4. Then using your 20 yd pin shoot at 10, 15, 20, 25, 30 yds if space is limited. If not shoot at 10, 20, 30 40....
Your arrows should fall in a verticle line. (see tuning using walk back method for adjusting your rest)
5. Next and last - shoot your broadheads and your fieldtips. Both should be hitting the same point of impact. If not you will need to adjust your nock set or rest accordingly.
Once you are done with this and your BHs and FTs are hitting the same spot it is possible that if you go back and check on paper - you may not be getting a 'perfect' hole. But who cares. If you do your part, you will hit what you are shooting at.
