my broadhead tuning dilemma
 

Bought a new Z7 this year and it's driving me to the brink of insanity!

I'm grouping field points well and broadheads well but not together. I read all the other posts here and followed the easton archery tuning guide. I shoot a 28" st. epics(400) with 100 gr. wasp fixed blades thru a whisker biscuit @ 53# measured thru an old bow scale (not sure the accuracy) They are 60# limbs turned back a turn and a quarter. I shoot lower poundage because of a rotator cuff tear in Aug. 08 (missed the whole season). The broadheads were flying 5" left and 4" low compared to the fp. I got the height problem to within 3/4 of an inch. However, the guide says that a right handed shooter landing broadheads to the left is an over spine problem. I first tried 125 gr. heads. They landed lower than the 100's but no left/right difference. I then tried moving the biscuit to the right until it hit the cable guard about 1/16" and this brought the broadheads to about 3 1/2"-4" of the fp. Since it didn't remedy the problem i set it back to where it was originally. I then cranked down the limbs to the max presumably 60-63#. this made the broadheads land about 2 1/2" left of fp.
If i look at the chart from easton, @53# i should be shooting a 400 spine arrow. But at 47-51 # they suggest a 500 spine arrow. Is this my over spine problem?
Please don't tell me to shoot a mechanical! I also refuse to sight in for broadheads and never shoot field tips. I truly believe that a well tuned bow with the proper spined arrow will land both together, my last bow did ever time.
Please help before i shoot this bow with my benelli !!!!!:confused0024::confused0024:

A WB can be tricky to tune. If you have not done this already, walkback tune with field points first. Once you are seeing your arrows hiting in a vertical line you should be very close to your centershot setting. Then try broadhead tuning.

And to add to this good advice you may want to spin your arrows just to make sure you tips are in sqaure and nothing has a wobble . And when your fletchings get that ripple just put a lighter to the fletchings and they will straightin out . Good luck

Don't flame me for this, but we all talk about fletching contact, but yet a lot of you still use the biscuit!! Every shot is fletching contact!!! Do what was suggested, good info, but if you still have a problem try a drop away with no contact.

You may have some cam lean issue as well. If none of the above works, maybe put a few twists in it. Sounds like your spine should be fine, so I would assume there is an underlying issue.

I would think the arrows may be a bit too stiff for the length and DW. As forthe WB., I used one for years with good success. But I have since switched to NAP Apache drop away. Great rest at a reasonable price.

What broadheads are you using just so we know what you are up against.

go to someone who knows about shooting form or style. my problem with BH flight was improper grip. after working on that for sometime i am now dead on with both FP & BH

You should have someone stand behind you when your at full draw and see if the string is straight on your idler wheel. If not take it to a pro shop and get it adjusted. Worked for my reezen.

UPDATE: switched to a drop away rest and am now very conscious of hand torque. I think I have solved the broad head left problem. Only shot a few arrows. Have to wait awhile before shooting again. I messed up my elbow pretty bad at work.
I really like the z7 but the grip is made for 10 year old girls. Wow it's ultra easy to torque the grip even with an open palm. I can palm a basketball, so some modification to the grip may be needed. I've heard of the focus grip but don't know if it will work for me. The bow doesn't seem to be plumb. When I am at full draw, the top of the bow wants to lean to the right(right hand shooter). I have to pay extra attention to the level bubble on the site. This seemed to pay instant dividends. It is not comfortable or natural though. I'm half thinking of a pad of some sort on the left side bottom of the grip. I know this sounds crazy but i'm just kinda voicing it before trying it. Any suggestions?

Take the grip off. That is the one thing I really dislike about Mathews bows is the 2x4 they have for a grip. I took a dremel rotory tool to my grip on my Bowtech and shaped it just how I wanted it.