Okik

Okay, so I'm trying to figure out exactly what kind of arrow I should be shooting and I am now eyeballs deep into so much technical stuff that my head is spinning. Someone help!

Right now I'm shooting a Bear compound bow at 40#@28.5" and I don't know if I'm even shooting the right arrow.

Currently I am shooting Easton Auminum xx75 Fall Stalker 1916 (I'm just typing what's on the box so I don't even know if I'm putting the right info on here) 4 vanes.

Is this arrow right?

Also, what are the advantages to Carbon arrows? Are they made of Carbon Fiber? I'm thinking they fly better because they're lighter?

And what are vanes?

I went on the Easton site, took one look at the chart and my eyes started bleeding lol!

You'll probably see more questions from me here, so I apologize for my noobery in advance.

bigcountry

Is this a compound or tradbow, ? For a longbow or recurve shooting off the shelf, 1816's might be a better choice depending on how clean your release is.

Okik

i'm sorry.

It is a Compound Bow, sir.

And I currently shoot fingers, with a Whisker Biscuit rest.

I apologize for not including that critical piece of information on the original post.

I mean, I'm getting decent groupings with it, but then again, I also want to make sure if I am actually matching the right arrow to my bow.

bronko22000

You may have a bit of trouble getting your arrows to come off the bow correctly with the whisker biscuit and shooting fingers. You can go 2 ways here - either shoot a release with the WB or switch to an inexpensive flipper type rest and continue to use your fingers. As for the arrows, with using fingers and adjusting the draw length to 29", your 1916s should be fine. A bit heavy but still should shoot ok. Too if you plan on continuing to use fingers and switching to the flipper type rest, you may want to consider changing to 3 feathers over the 4 vanes (plastic).

3Children

As previous stated your setup is ok, with the exception of the wb and fingers, I agree. To just change things a bit, here is some sugestions. Rest, maybe a drop a way, keep the wb and switch to a release: from fingers to a release, also get a loop installed on the string: aluminum arrows to carbon for more speed:vanes, go to the short, either 2" or 3" vanes (more durable) 3 fletch. I shot fingers on a compound for over 25 yrs and to say the release is just another tool is almost an understatement. Go to a range and try one out for yourself, you will shoot better when you get it mastered. BTW a 400 spine arrow will do you well in a carbon. GT rates their shafts with numbers and it would be a 3555, most others would have 400 on the shaft.

Okik

Thanks for the advice, guys.

Here's the thing with the draw length though -- my actual draw length is 26" and the lowest the bow goes is 28" (I got the bow from a friend and is far from being set up perfectly for me hence I anchor almost behind my ear instead of the corner of my mouth; I can still make it work, but I'm sure I can do much better with a bow that actual does "fit" me).

The release is definitely something I have thought of and I have wondered often if using one as opposed to fingers would have a noticeable in my shooting -- looks like it actually does.

The WB I suspected too had something to do with how my arrows are flying since there is still friction from the rest onto the arrows.

You guys have given me much to consider. Thank you.


ps...i still can't figure what the heck vanes are lol!

bronko22000

Okik - vanes are simply the plastic fletching as opposed to feathers. You definately do not want to shoot feathers out of your whisker biskuit. They will work, but won't last long.
The vanes are much more durable.

Okik

so could someone please explain to me why a wb and fingers do not work well together?

bronko22000

Okik - your WB is designed for shooting with a release. Although the arrow flexes with a release, the flexing is not as dramatic as with fingers. When you shoot with fingers the arrow has a tendancy to flex left to right and back left again and so on partly due to the string rolling off the fingers. And it is more dramatic with a poor release. This is known as archer's paradox and why a specific spine is required for a specific draw weight. Traditional shooters know this all to well. For them, a correctly spined arrow's center will first flex right on release, then left as it clears the riser then back right as the fletching clears the riser/bow. A release, especially with a D loop on the string allows a more direct centerline push of the arrow resulting in less flexing and therefore less resistance passing through the WB or any other shoot through rest. That is why I recommended earlier that you get youself an inexpensive flipper style rest if you want to continue to shoot fingers.

Pass-Thru Custom Arrows

If you are shooting a compound bow at 40 lbs i might try a Gold Tip 3555 carbon shaft. You can go with the lower end(Expedition Hunter) or the XT Hunter. I like carbons because they are very tough. An aluminum arrow might bend if you miss your target and then you are out an arrow. Feathers are faster off the string than a plastic vane, but at 40 or so yards the vanes will match the speeds of the feathers.