LAHUNTER

I recently bought a new bow and had it setup by the proshop. It was shooting great for a couple of weeks, I was very happy with its performance. A few days ago I made a few changes to my setup and now my bow is shooting terrible! It is shooting consistently to the right. I move my sight " chase the arrow" to the arrow and it will shoot on target again for a few shots and then start grouping to the right again.

My changes in my setup are:
1. turned limbs up from 62 lbs to 66 lbs.
2. Cut goldtip xt' s 5575 from 30.5" to 28.5"
3. installed new impact archery collector sight
4. installed different inline peep w/ (very noisy) tube
5. took off cable slide bar and installed a sims cable slide
(hopefully I put it back on at the right angle)

I have no idea what is going on. I have adjusted my sights 3 different times to the right and it gets better for a few shots and then starts grouping again to the right. I don' t know if it is me or it is the bow. Did making all the changes to my setup get my bow out of tune? I think at the end of the arrows flight (right before impact of the target) I am thinking that I am seeing the arrow twist low and right. (I think).

My rest is a tiger tuff sure shot rest. I am getting good fletching clearance because I can align my fletches and also getting vane clearance from my cables.

Please someone help me with this problem. I am really getting aggrevated. I really miss having an idea of where my arrows are going to hit.

setup: 2002 PSE xcellerator, 29.5" draw, 66lbs, 28.5" goldtip xt 5575 camo, tiger tuff sure shot rest.

Thanks
LAHUNTER

CAJUNBOWHNTR

Go back and paper tune the bow.I allways check my tuning after making changes.Increasing draw weight and cutting the arrows will effect the spine of your set up.

CB

Big Country

Do you mean to say that you actually loosened, or even removed your cable guard?

If so, more than likely it is not tight, and is moving ever so slightly. That would account for your groups to keep moving back to the right.

Turk_man

Because you say the bow shoots a couple good arrows and then starts shooting right again I would think this has more to do with a draw weight that might be alittle heavy and form problem. A bow even when not set-up right should have the same problem consistently ie. arrows porposing, fishtailing etc. When I hear about a bow that changes after a couple shots I always think that the shooter is doing something different. I have seen a bow with a bad cam bearing that sometimes would cause the cam hang-up enough that it threw the timing out, took forever to figure that one out.

LAHUNTER

Thanks everyone for replying and trying to help me with my problem.

CAJUNBOWHNTR
I am going to try and rig something up so I can paper tune my bow, I have never done it before but I dowloaded the easton archery bow tuning guide and its seems like it won' t be to hard to paper tune. I think the hard part is trying to find the " butcher" paper. I don' t really know of any meat markets around here. What are some other types of paper and where do you get it at. One of the main reasons I cut my arrows was to help stiffen them up some. I was shooting gold xt 5575 @ 30.5" . I knew I was going to turn my bow up, and that was going to put me in the 7595 category. I figured if I cut them to fit my bow it would keep me in the same category and also pick up some speed. So according to the goldtip charts I should be in the correct category.

Big Country
Yes, I did remove my cable guard to put on the new sims cable slide. I am pretty sure I did tighten it down but I will check again. That was running through my mind when I kept getting bad groups. So I went back through and tightened every screw head possible. I will check again though.

Turk_man
I don' t think my bow is too heavy for me, I can pull it back fairly easy and I can actually hold it steadier now, than I could before at a lower weight. Is that normal?
I have no idea what is going on. I think, the arrows look like they are twisting or moving at the last moment. It could be an illusion though. It just looks like that to me.

Thanks again for everyone help and advice so far. Please keep coming with your thoughts and remedies.

LAHUNTER

c903

Checking the spine chart, and not knowing what grain of head you are shooting, it seems your shafts are well within the spine requirements vs. draw-weight/length. Therefore, if spine induced problems can be ruled out, I would go for the following. In addition, I am assuming that the term " twisting" may be " fishtailing" that you are seeing.

1. The intermittent change of impact tends to lead me to believe that your problem may be due to fatigue induced torque. Although a 4-lb increase in draw-weight might not seem a large increase, it can be for some shooters until they adapt (wrist and arm strength). Determine if you are torqueing the bow or gripping the bow when releasing.

2. Move your rest slight left and right to see if doing so eliminates problem, or starts to eliminate problem. If doing so does, do not jump to conclusion that the problem is caused by improper " centering" of rest. The problem may still be torque/grip related.

3. What size of feathers/vanes are you shooting. If less than 5" , the 4-lb increase might now require you shoot 5" .

4. If the rest you are using is the one that has metal pressure blades that apply pressure to the sides of the shaft, the cause might be that the rest blades are applying improper or unequal pressure to the sides of the shaft.

Personally, I would never use any (compound) rest that causes " Berger-Button" type pressure to be applied to the sides of a center-shooting shaft, especially if you cannot adjust the pressure. Pressure buttons or any pressure adjusting device is meant to be used to control the " archers paradox" (arrow bending around riser) when shooting off or against the riser, especially when finger-shooting.

CAJUNBOWHNTR

You can use newspaper or freezer paper from the local grocery.Just remember that form problems or torquing the grip will cause some funky tears in the paper.I would tend to agree that if the problem is not consistent then either it is a mechanical issue(cable gaurd maybe ) or a lack of consistent form.Remember just changing your grip a little can effect your impact point.Good luck.

CB

W. Dale

LAHUNTER,
I know how you feel...For three years I have been grouping within 2" vertically but have not been able to group better than 5" -6" horozontially. This year I removed my quiver and closed the horizontial up to 3" to 4" . I really feel that the quiver was torqing, and also feel the weight was too much for me. With out the quiver I' m holding the bow steady, but with the quiver I can hardly steady it any more.....The next thing that has hindered my horizontal grouping is my form....
I' ve been trying hard to do every thing the same way on each and every shot...
Working on my fom has reduced my horizontal grouping by another 2" .......

Try concentrating on all aspects of your form......Don' t grip your bow, just push against the bow' s grip with loosely closed fingers....., when at full draw, bend your bow arm at the elbow the same amount each time, Anchor your release hand to the same point each time using something on your face or neck as a reference point.....Don' t let your release hand touch your neck or anything when squezing the trigger of your release...When at full draw, always try to hold the same amount of pressure against the bow' s draw stop.......After all this, sweep your bow from the same direction each time until your sight pin approaches your target slowing down to a creep and squeezing the trigger when you have just come to a stop on your target......Consistantly doing all of these things, seems to be eliminating horizontal grouping problems for me.....Hope this helps......

LAHUNTER

I just got back form the bow shop, had by bow paper tuned and the guy said it was shooting bullet holes. He said there is nothing wrong with the bow, it is my form. He gave me some shooting advice. Things like how to hold or (push) against the bow, squeezing the trigger etc. Things of that nature. He also said " practice doesn' t make perfect, perfect practice makes perfect" . I guess it was all in my head, I guess I was blaming my equipment rather than myself. Thanks for everyones help and replies.

LAHUNTER

LAHUNTER

YES!!!!!!! By practicing some of the " correct" shooting techniques that the pro showed me earlier today I was able to get some really good groups again. It cost me $2.50 (refletch an arrow) but it was mentally worth it. I was shooting at spots inside of the painted dots on my target and I was hitting them. It was definately me torquing the bow because I tried the grip that he was showing me and it worked great. Thanks everyone for trying to help me out.

Dang! I was so upset the last couple of days I went ahead and bought the NO-Peep to try and see if that would fix the supposed problem with my bow. I really don' t need it now, but maybe it will work out for me and hopefully I will like the no peep.

Thanks again,
LAHUNTER