kdtanner228

Hey there! ive been reading some posts around this sight and i can see that there is a lot of knowledge to be tapped here. I recently bought a 2008 PSE X-Force 6 HF. I have tried multiple times to paper tune it but have been unsuccessful. i am shooting off of an alpine wisperflite match-grade drop away and have good fletching clearance. i can make this bow tune fairly decent, meaning only slight, inconsistent tears but in order to even get it to shoot anywhere close to a decent hole the arrow has to be tipped quite a bit downhill coming out of the bow. I have a hard time with shooting my bow that far from square. please if you have any ideas let me know. thanks.

3Children

What have you done to the bow? Was the bow new? Is the bow in specs, bh, tiller, ata? BTW welcome to the site!! We can help we need info.. First off check the axle to axle length. Make sure of your specs and that it is very close to that.

kdtanner228

ok lets see. the bow is new. it was a floor model at a local sporting goods store. the only blemish on the bow is a small scratch on the upper limb from the store manager carelessly hanging the bow on a metal hook. but the scratch doesnt go much deeper than through the camo finish. PSE says that the a-t-a should be 33 1/8. I come up with 32 15/16 from center of one axle to the center of the other. that difference might be due to the fact that i have the string slightly shortened by hooking the string on the shorter post on the upper cam. As far as the tiller, i dont know too much. i originally tried tuning the bow with both limbs set at their maximum of 70 lbs. I have tried relieving the upper limb as much as 2 1/2 turns in an attempt to change the tiller. it didnt seem to make much of a difference though. the timing of the cams seems to be good too.

MeanV2

Have you tried Walkback tuning? Bareshaft tuning? i really don't put much stock in paper tuning as it is way to easy to get false readings.

I setup with lasers and levels and rarely have to move anything more than 1/16" through the tuning process.

Dan

bigcountry

True enough. If you have to move off centershot more than 1/8", one needs to pick a better arrow combination.

but you sound like you have a verticle issues. Which suggests to me form or cam timing.

Try a trick to see. Hold the handle with a high wrist between your thumb and index finger and touch your index and thumb together. Shoot and then try it broken wristed with only the palm under your thumb touching.

kwilson16

I am not a PSE guy but this sounds like an unusual 'set-up'. Is this something you found in the operator's manual? Is this a recommended practice?

kdtanner228

No i havent tried any walkback or shaft tuning. I have always been successful at getting arrows to shoot bulletholes through paper. I am ready to try them both now though. =) so what order would you suggest to do them in?

kdtanner228

i have tried with my hand position like you said. In fact i have positioned my hand in about five different positions with no luck. I have shot compound bows in leagues for years with excellent results. I have even shot with Dan Evens, owner of Trophy Taker Inc., so i think my form is pretty decent. I had a friend watch my arrow as i drew back last night though, and the nock seems to travel slightly downward as i come to full draw. could be in the cams.

kdtanner228

2009 PSE User's Guide:

For minor changes in draw length, the bow must be placed in a suitable bow press and
tension relieved from the string and cable. The string side of the cam may have additional
posts. Moving the string from the post with the dot to the post with the “+” will increase
draw by approximately ¼”. Moving the string from the post with the dot to the post with
the “-“ will decrease draw by approximately ¼”.