aramid 250 not enough/too much
#1

I shoot a hoyt vectric 60lbs 28 1/2 draw. I got aramid 250's. I was wondering if it is the correct size for the above weights and measures. I shoot 100 gr shuttle T-Locks (love em). and I wanted to try the numenocks this spring. I want to make sure I am not messing with the FOC ect..
Any comments would be grately appeciated..
Any comments would be grately appeciated..
#2

The 250's should be fine for your setup depending on final arrow length.
I don't care for the lighted nocks because it does mess with FOC. In all honesty, yeah they are neat, but really not needed. I doubt they would ever save enough to pay for themselves anyway.
Dan
I don't care for the lighted nocks because it does mess with FOC. In all honesty, yeah they are neat, but really not needed. I doubt they would ever save enough to pay for themselves anyway.
Dan
#3

Dan is a CX dealer so he can speak better on the spine issue. Dan - it looks like his final arrow length is 28".
I just removed lighted nocks from my set-up.
Because :
1. They are heavy and do adeversely affect FOC.
2. They are something else to worry about - batteries, inadvertent activation, practice nocks etc.
3. They actually cost me a double this fall during a suburban management hunt. I killed a doe which looped around and fell within a few yards of where I shot her. Her button buck brother returned to the scene but was frightened away by the brightly flashing nock. Without the lighted nock, he would have gotten a ride to Hunter's-for-the-Hungry too.
4. They're expensive.
5. I do not hear a lot of success stories about improved recovery rates. Maybe some other folks will have more positive things to say.
I just removed lighted nocks from my set-up.
Because :
1. They are heavy and do adeversely affect FOC.
2. They are something else to worry about - batteries, inadvertent activation, practice nocks etc.
3. They actually cost me a double this fall during a suburban management hunt. I killed a doe which looped around and fell within a few yards of where I shot her. Her button buck brother returned to the scene but was frightened away by the brightly flashing nock. Without the lighted nock, he would have gotten a ride to Hunter's-for-the-Hungry too.
4. They're expensive.
5. I do not hear a lot of success stories about improved recovery rates. Maybe some other folks will have more positive things to say.
#5

Call me an old fogey or outdated; whatever you like, but I was taught a lot by an old state field champion here in Pa. back in the 70's. One thing I was taught was that most often the best shot I ever make is one where I don't see the arrow go. Learn and practice good form and have confidence that your arrow is right where your pin was when the bow went off. Therefore, if you are doing your job and following through you don't need lighted nocks to kow where the arrow went.
#6
Spike
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 37

BGfisher I agree with you that you need to be confident with your shots and not worry about watching them when you are practicing. I do think that when you are shooting at an animal it is helpful to have a good idea where your arrow is in case of a bad hit or an arrow deflection. My method is to watch through the sight window. this keeps your form good and gives you an idea what to expect when you have to track that elk.
#7

Call me an old fogey or outdated; whatever you like, but I was taught a lot by an old state field champion here in Pa. back in the 70's. One thing I was taught was that most often the best shot I ever make is one where I don't see the arrow go. Learn and practice good form and have confidence that your arrow is right where your pin was when the bow went off. Therefore, if you are doing your job and following through you don't need lighted nocks to kow where the arrow went.
Dan
#9

I like lighted nocks, I LOVE them for filming. I have been shooting for some time and like them for finding my arrows. $120 for shafts and $30 for three heads, whats the extra $20. To each his own, friends.